Threw a Rod. How can this happen in 2023

[RichLo]

Yea, something else went wrong or was going wrong and you probably just happened to speed up an ongoing problem. As long as you were within the rated GVW there's no reason a truck cant keep up with traffic on a long grade.

How hot was the engine temp when it blew? Was that also climbing as you were going up the hill? Unless you had a malfunctioning temp gauge I hope you would have backed down when it started climbing...? How fast did the oil pressure drop and did you back off at all? How old was the oil and coolant?

I agree that a new engine would be worth it, its a clean looking nice truck. A 454 would be a good swap at this point if it doesn't already have one.

 

[BeXtreme]

Actually, it was a rod bearing that went out on me.



1999 Chevy C2500 Classic 4X2 Regular Cab w. 10.5” Axle with 152K total miles, original engine and 4L80E. Hauling a 3,500# Lance Truck Camper at 8,700# total GVW. I’m the second owner and have maintained the truck as well as the original owner.



I thought our trucks have all sorts of electronic safety equipment and computers that would prevent the engine from overrevving under heavy load. That worthless (seems now to me) equipment caused my transmission to go into safe mode numerous times last year until I replaced all four O2 and the MAF sensor. But it didn’t help me when I really needed it.



I take blame because I charged up a steep hill in D with the Camper on it fully loaded and this overrevved the engine. Fully floored. My fault. I saw the oil pressure drop, then started hearing the clunking we’ve all heard at some point in our lives (usually as teenagers doing dumb things). Oil smoke billowed out of the engine compartment.



A close friend who has been drag racing for years came to pick up the TC (AAA wouldn’t tow both, another saga that Sunday), and confirmed internal engine damage, likely a rod bearing.



This breaks my heart. Esp. considering all the work I’ve done to set the truck up right.



My question for the folks here: is it worth it to buy a new Vortec to swap it out. I would have to pay someone to do it. I estimate a new long block would be $2,500; $500 for incidentals; and around $1,500 for labor in Oregon. What do you guys think?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You were either low on oil, or the pick up tube came off, or something like that. What grade were you on when it blew up? Headed up towards Hood?

I just rebuilt my 350 a few years ago and it was about $1500 all-in. That was ~$580 in machine shop work and the rest in gaskets, pistons, cam/lifters, etc...

I've had good luck with the Davison Napa machine shop in Woodburn(they did the machine work on my L29 454) and also Jeffs Machine shop here in Salem(they did my 350 and are doing my 6.2LS).

 

[Westieterrier]

Sorry gentlemen, I left out the most important detail (oversight on my part): it's a 5.7 liter. I was doing 40 mph and punched it to 55mph or so pass a slow-moving truck up a short, but really steep hill. No mods at all to the original engine.

I really don't need snarky comments implying that I altered, or wished to alter, my emission system (no way I'd ever do that) and stating that I didn't just see a Jeg's advertisement for a new long block for $2,399. Also, while I take full blame for accelerating like I did, it is a fair question to ask where/what the computer was doing at the time. Antagonistic comments are really not necessary bro. It's a difficult time for me as alot of money just walked away (and my wife and I can't use our beloved Camper). Thanks for understanding. P

Replacement Crate Engine for 1996-2000 for 5.7 Vortec Long Block Chevy​

 

[Westieterrier]

Gentlemen, I very much appreciate all your thoughtful comments. I will try to address each one.

I don't believe it was overheating at all on my very early morning drive from Portland to Hood River. The incident happened on Country Club Road, which has a fairly steep hill. First there was a mild ticking noise (which I thought was my bike carrier on the front) and the oil pressure dropped to 10, but went right back up after I backed off; then after an hour later drive (which it seemed to run well), I lost power on acceleration; smoke billowed out; and the oil pressure again dropped-- this time to near zero. I probably should have parked it immediately after the first oil pressure drop. I realize that now, but I cannot change the past.

Other than big block springs, radiator, and motor mounts, what other big parts do I need to do a swap? This is enticing.

Would the computer catch a mechanical deficiency of this seriousness and switch me into safe mode?

What do you think it's worth in this condition? It does start and drive (while clanking alot!). I'm considering just getting a GMT400 one-ton and being done with it. Not sure, just pretty bummed right now. Thanks. P

 

[Schurkey]

I was doing 40 mph and punched it to 55mph or so pass a slow-moving truck up a short, but really steep hill. No mods at all to the original engine.

That shouldn't kill an engine. Something else failed or was failing previously, and it just "let go" under stress.

...stating that I didn't just see a Jeg's advertisement for a new long block for $2,399.

Replacement Crate Engine for 1996-2000 for 5.7 Vortec Long Block Chevy​

THIS one?
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/0282/10002/-1

ATK Engines 0282: 0282 Replacement Crate Engine for 1996-2000 for 5.7 Vortec Long Block Chevy - JEGS

Buy a 5.7 Vortec long block replacement engine online. This Chevy 5.7 Vortec crate engine features factory specs of 255 horsepower and 330 ft.-lbs. of torque. This replacement engine comes with a 36-month unlimited mileage warranty. Order the L31 Chevy Vortec 350ci/5.71 replacement engine from...

www.jegs.com

1. That's a rebuilt, not "new".
2. Core charge: add $510. They claim it takes 30--45 days to "process" the core, and refund your money.
3. Freight: add $210. This includes the core return via prepaid shipping label. Better than I expected.
4. Estimated availability: 08 November, shipping direct from manufacturer.

2,399 + 210 + 510 = $3,119 PLUS sales tax as applicable, they'll refund the $510 a month or more after the core ships back to them.

And you still don't get it until November...unless things perk-up on their end.

We haven't discussed whether your damper, flexplate, distributor, plug wires, starter, water pump, alternator, serpentine belt and tensioner, hoses including heater, radiator, vacuum, and PS hoses, engine mounts, radiator, etc. are in fit condition for re-use. Plus coolant, plus oil 'n' filter, plus spark plugs, plus air and fuel filters. Depending on condition of existing parts, the $500 you've allotted for "incidentals" may or may not cover what's needed.

Does this engine already have the electronic-injector spider, or is it still working on the poppet-style injectors and old fuel pressure regulator?

Have you found a shop that will install a customer-supplied engine?

 

[pressureangle]

It's not strictly speaking your 'abuse' that spun the bearing.
I took a '85 4 door dually with carbureted 350, TH 400 and 4.10 gears with 15k on it's back and in a trailer over the WV turnpike; much of that trip was at 35mph in low gear with foot buried so long and hard my thigh went numb. Multiple times, probably an hour or more total at whatever RPM it could manage. It made the trip without issue.

It did, however, about 1000 miles later explode spectacularly. The camshaft came out in 8 pieces. Never threw a bearing, though.

 

[BeXtreme]

Gentlemen, I very much appreciate all your thoughtful comments. I will try to address each one.

I don't believe it was overheating at all on my very early morning drive from Portland to Hood River. The incident happened on Country Club Road, which has a fairly steep hill. First there was a mild ticking noise (which I thought was my bike carrier on the front) and the oil pressure dropped to 10, but went right back up after I backed off; then after an hour later drive (which it seemed to run well), I lost power on acceleration; smoke billowed out; and the oil pressure again dropped-- this time to near zero. I probably should have parked it immediately after the first oil pressure drop. I realize that now, but I cannot change the past.

Other than big block springs, radiator, and motor mounts, what other big parts do I need to do a swap? This is enticing.

Would the computer catch a mechanical deficiency of this seriousness and switch me into safe mode?

What do you think it's worth in this condition? It does start and drive (while clanking alot!). I'm considering just getting a GMT400 one-ton and being done with it. Not sure, just pretty bummed right now. Thanks. P

This sounds to me like you were low on oil and you got some aerated oil in the system the first time it dropped to 10 psi. You likely spun the bearing right then and there. Then when you punched it to pass going up the hill, the spun bearing caused it to load up and overheat and cause total failure.

No computer in the world is going to be able to protect an engine from going under this circumstance.

What you should have done, when you first saw the oil pressure drop, is pull over and check your oil and everything else. You might have been able to hear that rod knocking at you on the side of the road before it completely let go.

You can probably get $1500-2k for the truck as it sits... maybe. There are some 454 equipped GMT-400's available around here in the $3k-8k range depending on mileage and condition.

 

[Hipster]

Sorry gentlemen, I left out the most important detail (oversight on my part): it's a 5.7 liter. I was doing 40 mph and punched it to 55mph or so pass a slow-moving truck up a short, but really steep hill. No mods at all to the original engine.

I really don't need snarky comments implying that I altered, or wished to alter, my emission system (no way I'd ever do that) and stating that I didn't just see a Jeg's advertisement for a new long block for $2,399. Also, while I take full blame for accelerating like I did, it is a fair question to ask where/what the computer was doing at the time. Antagonistic comments are really not necessary bro. It's a difficult time for me as alot of money just walked away (and my wife and I can't use our beloved Camper). Thanks for understanding. P

Replacement Crate Engine for 1996-2000 for 5.7 Vortec Long Block Chevy​

You don't seem to understand the computer doesn't monitor for getting ready to let loose/getting ready to break mechanical hard parts. I don't see where anyone is being snarky, more like an individual is thin skinned. They're providing some insight, and I agree with the notion that the bearing spun in it's bore the first time the oil pressure dropped, which is not a computer monitored parameter.

 

[BeXtreme]

Here you go. $1500 for a C3500 crew cab with the 454. Says there’s 45,000 miles on the rebuild of the 454, but the tranny is starting to slip. I’d either take the trans out of your blown up truck and run this or take the engine and computer out of this thing and be done. You can probably part out one of the trucks to break even.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6307423195991985/?mibextid=T6ff65

ETA: It’s a 2wd, not 4wd and I forgot to put the link in originally

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Personally I would stop running the engine immediately. The block is probably salveagable at this point but very likely needs a crank kit and atleast a rod or two. I would ask the race car enthusiasts in your area who they trust to do machine and engine work. I would find someone to yank that engine out, take it to them. Get the machine shop to build you a basic 383, you could do a 355 but the time to add low speed torque and cubic inches is now. Use a Scat rotating assembly with 18cc D shaped dished pistons and get it balanced. Keep the stock cam and cylinder heads. At that point it is basically a HT383E. Then have the engine re-installed. Any machine shop in the North American continent should be able to build a 383 short block and clean up the heads for less than the $2500 crate engine. Any competent machine shop should have some form of a written warranty.