The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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Tractor joe

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Mine stays around 30 ish at idle when warm, running 15w40 Rotella.. about 45 when cold, well if you call 85 or 90 degrees outside cold..

I have a 89 gmc with the tbi 350, is this vacuum line supposed to be open? From the diagrams I've found it should be a vent? Just want to be sure
 

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Erin

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Mine stays around 30 ish at idle when warm, running 15w40 Rotella.. about 45 when cold, well if you call 85 or 90 degrees outside cold..

I have a 89 gmc with the tbi 350, is this vacuum line supposed to be open? From the diagrams I've found it should be a vent? Just want to be sure
What Peter said. I'll add that mine has a foam piece on it. Don't know what its for though.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I'll add that mine has a foam piece on it. Don't know what its for though.
That's to keep it clean internally. When the module opens the EGR that port exhausts air. When it closes the valve, it sucks air in.
 

Tractor joe

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I'm guessing that's what the glue like residue is from, the foam that's missing.. I replaced the crankcase breather vent and the truck runs a bit better.. but I really noticed the break peddle is more responsive and firmer when coming to a stop now
 

red98

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98 K1500 5.7L 4L60E

If I want more power (truck is prob 250 to the wheels or less right now-not looking for anything over 350 realistically), what should I do?
Re-gear is on the docket as my tires are larger than stock, but we are in the engine section, so what should I/could I do to make a bit more power, not interested in anything too nuts, but I know basically nothing about cams cranks rods etc.
Should I find another 350 block and start with that? Send my block to the machine shop? Whats the best way to do this these days?
Truck has 250k on it, no clue if engine or trans are original or not, has the 14bsf out back, so I know my 60e is my weakpoint, and I know it'll blow eventually so I'm not worried about that.
I do have another car so my truck can be down for week(s) and not be a huge deal.
Budget is pretty workable, just wanna keep it under say 2500-3k probably, that way if the trans does take a dump right after I can still afford to get that fixed. Don't really have a minimum budget, so if theres something I can get away with for like $1000 thats gonna make a noticeable difference I'm up for that too.
As far as I know the truck is totally stock as far as powertrain stuff.


What do you guys think?
 

Erik the Awful

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If your truck's bone stock, start with exhaust. There's no sense in doing any engine work with the stock pipes. It's like trying to drink an Icee through a coffee straw.

Your Vortec heads shouldn't need any work to support 350hp, but if you want a big lift cam, put in some LS2 valvesprings, Comp Cams retainers, and umbrella valve seals and you can run up to .530" lift. Of course, if you're going to have the head off, you might as well do a clean-up port job. If you want more than 400 hp, you'll want aftermarket heads.

If there's no wear in your bores, stick with the stock rods and pistons. The stock compression ratio of 9.4:1 isn't a bad place to be. 87 Octane? No problem. If you really want a compression bump, use a thinner head gasket.

A cam swap is going to be where you make the power. People swear by the GM Hot Cam, but at $500 I'd rather call a cam company to get a stronger grind and spend the other $230 on LS2 valvesprings, Comp Cams retainers, and umbrella valve seals.

The big question budget-wise is "Who's doing the work?". If you're learning to do it yourself, invest in some beer and pizza for that friend you know who built his own motor five years ago and it's still running strong. If you're paying a shop, that $3k isn't going to last long.
 

99BB3500

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Anyone with a 96-99 vortec 454 post some pictures of the drivers side knock sensor wiring harness and where it goes into the loom or the pcm? Or at least tell me what pin it is so I can trace it? At some point one of the owners of my truck cut the wire off and I can’t seem to find the pigtail. The one on the passenger side is fine. Unless I have the drivers side wire plugged in the passenger side. Then I guess I’m just dumb and need to find the passenger side one
 
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