Tbi distributor magnet protection from rust question

[man-a-fre]

I was wondering what I can apply to the new distributor shaft magnet on my 1994 tbi 350 to try to keep it from rust jacking and cracking the new magnet on my new shaft . Was thinking spraying it with wd40 or fluid film, would this be a bad thing to do? Would spraying aerosol clear coat work ? Any ideas are appreciated.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I don't think WD-40 would hurt it. if you have compressed air blow off any excess. Fluid film is kinda messy and not sure what it may do with 30,000 volts flowing around in there. Clear coat may not be a bad idea but go lightly.

 

[Schurkey]

There's no high-voltage in the pickup coil area. At cranking speed, it'll wiggle the needle on an analog voltmeter set to the 5-volt scale. Voltage increases with RPM, and I've never measured it--but probably into the tens of volts not hundreds, and absolutely not thousands.

The distributor could easily reach 250 degrees, so any grease-like protector will have to be stable to higher temp than that or it'll just melt off. the pole-piece (reluctor) rotates at 1/2 engine speed, so there's some centrifugal force trying to fling any grease or oil off.

I hadn't considered this before, but perhaps spray paint (clear, for esthetics) might work. IDEALLY those parts would have been plated with zinc (galvanized) or cadmium or something for corrosion resistance.

 

[Road Trip]

I was wondering what I can apply to the new distributor shaft magnet on my 1994 tbi 350 to try to keep it from rust jacking and cracking the new magnet on my new shaft . Was thinking spraying it with wd40 or fluid film, would this be a bad thing to do? Would spraying aerosol clear coat work ? Any ideas are appreciated.

I think that's a great idea. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of rust and all that. :0)

Anyone who's seen the inside of these distributors after the ozone + a little humidity accelerated
by the normal thermal cycling would be wondering if they can't add a layer of 'tropicalizing' to the assembly.

The distributor could easily reach 250 degrees, so any grease-like protector will have to be stable to higher temp than that or it'll just melt off. the pole-piece (reluctor) rotates at 1/2 engine speed, so there's some centrifugal force trying to fling any grease or oil off.

I hadn't considered this before, but perhaps spray paint (clear, for esthetics) might work. IDEALLY those parts would have been plated with zinc (galvanized) or cadmium or something for corrosion resistance.

For what it's worth, I can personally vouch that this engine paint clear coat holds up well in
a hot engine bay. (Claimed to withstand up to 500° F temps)

You must be registered for see images attach

(various places where this paint can be purchased in addition to the local parts store: Duplicolor engine enamel Gloss Clear)

For what it's worth this is exactly what I'll be using when I refresh the chore truck engine bay and
renew the dizzy. (Keeping the still operational known-good dizzy as a spare on the shelf.)

Good stuff. Applied with care this should help more than it hurts. And bonus points if
you were to look into what @L31MaxExpress had come up with to vacuum out the ozone
and have it replaced with much less reactive fresh air. I'm thinking that between these
2 preventive measures this will bring the inside of my distributor up to @SNCTMPL's 'dad & lad'
restoration level as currently seen elsewhere in the forum. :0)

 

[man-a-fre]

Thanks for the replies looks like I'll try aerosol clearcoat I guess.

 

[CumminsFever]

I'd try aerosol anti-spatter for welding. While not necessarily made for rust prevention, it does do exactly that. Handles heat, won't interfere with electronics.

 

[scott2093]

wondering if they can't add a layer of 'tropicalizing' to the assembly.

You wouldn't happen to know what the stuff is that the military used in some of those vintage field limiters and amplifiers?
Could be cool to add some years to the non outdoor rated electronics in the lanai...lol

 

[Scooterwrench]

If you remove the ICM be sure to tape off that spot where it sets. The ICM has to have a good ground and be able to conduct heat into the base plate.

 

[Road Trip]

You wouldn't happen to know what the stuff is that the military used in some of those vintage field limiters and amplifiers?
Could be cool to add some years to the non outdoor rated electronics in the lanai...lol

Sounds like you might be interested in studying MIL-STD-810. (A through H)

Here's a good jumping off point: ("One of the best humidity labs in the country")

And here's a second company that specializes in conformal coatings: Advanced Coatings

I worked on raised floor large computer systems (civilian) as well as military avionics,
and it's really interesting to see what it takes to make state of the art electronics
work in a stationary, environmentally controlled environment vs. similar electronics
designed to work no matter what in a shock-filled workspace with uncontrolled temp/humidity
swings.

So between the above plus implementing distributor positive venting as @L31MaxExpress
describes for GMT400 dizzys (MODS) and here (dizzy humidity/ozone purging) I think we can make this
area a lot less of an Achilles heel for us distributor-driving luddites. :0)

Be sure to enjoy the deep dive ahead...

 

[man-a-fre]

If you remove the ICM be sure to tape off that spot where it sets. The ICM has to have a good ground and be able to conduct heat into the base plate.

Thanks , I won't have to worry about that I have a new shaft and magnet I am installing in place of the old cracked magnet so I will spray it before installing , I am just trying to be proactive to try and keep the magnet portion from getting so rusty like the orignal I'm replacing.