Synthetic Oil

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lha1992

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Incorrect, full synthetic has higher zddp (zinc) than conventional which is what older engines require a lot of because of metal to metal contact. TBI engines need this even more so because of our flat tappet cams. What likely happened is the synthetic oil cleaned up your dirty engine making existing issues more obvious or apparent to you. Switching to synthetic will still increase the life and efficiency of your engine even with your issue.

And yes oil does wear out its proven by science.

I think your incorrect on the part of synthetic oils having more ZDDP (Zinc) in the oils.

If you look up on Google about the ZDDP add packs in todays oils its down allllllll across the board even more so in synthetics being that most cars today are roller cams than the flat tappets from the TBI engines. Alot of oil guys an engine builders say you need at least 1200 PPM of zinc for you to have protection against wear in a flat tappet cam engine.

While if you look up most oils including alot of synthetics have around 800PPM of zinc. As of now they're trying to lower that down to 500 if I recall being that back in the day zinc would clog catalytic converters thus the reason an switch to less zinc oil. Now dont get me wrong theirs really good synthetics out there that have the required zinc such as AmsOil, joe gibbs, brad penn, an Valvoline VR1 racing oil though I read they lowered the PPM of zinc but have to make sure. But yes other that the VR1 all the other oils have good amounts of zinc.

Now other synthetics such as regular mobil 1 or casteroil syn an what not dont have the required enough zinc. You'll deff need to run a ZDDP additive.

Now heres where theirs an exception the ZDDP really is needed in new flat tappet engines that are being broken in today. Still need to use ZDDP the rest of the engines life but since lets say our TBI trucks were built at a time when all oils had enough zinc our trucks were broken in an ran with that old oil just until recently so nothing really to worry about with running todays oil in our old trucks. Wouldn't hurt to run a ZDDP additive for that protection too.

Back to the whole synthetic vs conventional debate. The OP asked about oils an really any good synthetic is good to run. I tend to choose mobil 1 or if you want AmsOil or bradd penn if you want longer intervals. Basically really I stick to old school, check your oil regularly an change every 3000 and defffff put a QUALITY oil filter!!! Doesn't matter what kinda oil you get if you got a bad filter its gonna get dirty.

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Sampuppy1

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As long as its clean and you change it often, it doesn't matter who makes it. You can run Rotella T6 for around $25 per oil change or AMSOIL for around $75 per oil change. Mostly just personal preference and brand loyalty.

Oil is oil.

Clean is all that matters.

All oils are not equal. I personally use Valvoline SynPower 5w-30 with a wix boxed as napa gold. I switched it the day I bought the truck with 175k miles. I recently extended my change intervals to 10k miles and check all my easily accessible fluids every fill up. It uses about a quart a month but I noticed today that it was still at the full line from when I added oil 3 weeks ago. Hasn't used a drop. And it's a nice caramel color. My driving style hasn't changed (in fact it's probably worse with dicking around in all the snow we have gotten lately) and I now have just shy of 240k on the clock. With it being so old and higher miles I won't bother with bypass filters, top dollar oils and such since it uses oil. But I never skimp on my filters. I will run a k&n from time to time. I have a link to another fluids and filtration discussion I started. Let me go dig
It out.


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SkyHighColorado

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I think your incorrect on the part of synthetic oils having more ZDDP (Zinc) in the oils.

If you look up on Google about the ZDDP add packs in todays oils its down allllllll across the board even more so in synthetics being that most cars today are roller cams than the flat tappets from the TBI engines. Alot of oil guys an engine builders say you need at least 1200 PPM of zinc for you to have protection against wear in a flat tappet cam engine.

While if you look up most oils including alot of synthetics have around 800PPM of zinc. As of now they're trying to lower that down to 500 if I recall being that back in the day zinc would clog catalytic converters thus the reason an switch to less zinc oil. Now dont get me wrong theirs really good synthetics out there that have the required zinc such as AmsOil, joe gibbs, brad penn, an Valvoline VR1 racing oil though I read they lowered the PPM of zinc but have to make sure. But yes other that the VR1 all the other oils have good amounts of zinc.

Now other synthetics such as regular mobil 1 or casteroil syn an what not dont have the required enough zinc. You'll deff need to run a ZDDP additive.

Now heres where theirs an exception the ZDDP really is needed in new flat tappet engines that are being broken in today. Still need to use ZDDP the rest of the engines life but since lets say our TBI trucks were built at a time when all oils had enough zinc our trucks were broken in an ran with that old oil just until recently so nothing really to worry about with running todays oil in our old trucks. Wouldn't hurt to run a ZDDP additive for that protection too.

Back to the whole synthetic vs conventional debate. The OP asked about oils an really any good synthetic is good to run. I tend to choose mobil 1 or if you want AmsOil or bradd penn if you want longer intervals. Basically really I stick to old school, check your oil regularly an change every 3000 and defffff put a QUALITY oil filter!!! Doesn't matter what kinda oil you get if you got a bad filter its gonna get dirty.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Go check mobil1's website. 5w30 full synthetic high mileage has 1000 ppm zinc. I ran zddp additive when I was cat less but now I have a brand new cat I don't want to run it.
 

Ruger_556

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Anyone know the Zinc PPM on Royal Purple HMX? Supposedly higher levels than their other oils...
 
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