Suspension work - 1998 K2500, here’s a proper thread

[TommyJ1980]

I’ve been jumping around and commenting here and there, so I figured I’d make a proper thread and stick to it. I started out to change the lower ball joints, then damaged a LCA trying to get them out. Went through the fiasco of trying to find new LCA for both sides, at this point I have the Astro ones that fit, and trying to finish up replacing the upper ball joints as well. Right now I’m stuck trying to figure out the best place to order a new set of LCA bushing bolts, because I had to cut one on the passenger side to get it out. Apparently the manual says they’re supposed to go in one way only but that ain’t gonna happen. I guess I’ll put thread locker on it and torque it down to spec and hope for the best. Here’s a picture of the upper control arm with new ball joint. Seems like every step of the way has been a slog.

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[TommyJ1980]

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[TommyJ1980]

Is there like a general lazy man’s torque spec for the front suspension pieces? Getting ready to start putting stuff back together again and I swear there’s a different number for every part.

 

[TommyJ1980]

This LCA was ridiculously hard to get into its space. Thank God for my 16yr old, a bunch of grease, and a floor jack, and we were able to finally get it wedged into place and bolts in without destroying threads.

 

[offroadtahoe]

m16-2.0x 140 grade 10.9 is the stock bolt size,mabye with a grade 12.9 socket cap you can get it in like stock.

 

[TommyJ1980]

Another dumb question, how do I get grease in and out of these stupid ball joint boots? I can see no way to let the pressure out, and I filled them prematurely and now they’re sitting there bulging and filled with grease, and I have not idea how to get it out. Taking the wife’s car to work tomorrow, and feeling pretty defeated, was hoping this was it, after getting upper and lower LCAs installed, new ball joints in both, new sway bar end links, which it a problem of its own, it has this big round but with a flat head instead of the normal looking one that came off of there. I think I’m gonna take that back and get a different brand or something, I wasn’t even able to grab ahold of it to torque it to spec. Anyways, thank in advance for info on getting the grease out, hopefully I didn’t jack up the boots by installing them like that.

 

[someotherguy]

Ehhh, remove the grease fittings, assemble everything, be prepared to clean grease up. Then put the fittings back on. Careful not to overtighten them. Some grease will also very likely squeeze out between the boot and the stud.

Richard

 

[TreeGeared]

If you are still looking for bolts industrial supply companies like MSC and McMaster-Carr carry a large variety of bolts. Just make sure you get the equivalent grade of fastener and I recommend hardened washers when used on suspension. Head type should not mater just use a washer if you can't get a flange head fastener. Yes everything needs to be torqued to factory standards.

 

[Hipster]

Is there like a general lazy man’s torque spec for the front suspension pieces? Getting ready to start putting stuff back together again and I swear there’s a different number for every part.

I pretty much follow the book. Gutentight is better than Striptnlusse. Overstretched fasteners=less clamping force. With the proper tools it doesn't have to be a nightmare job. Clamping the control arms in a vice metal to metal, risking scarring them up, and possibly creating stress risers in the part is not really the way to do this.

 

[TommyJ1980]

Ehhh, remove the grease fittings, assemble everything, be prepared to clean grease up. Then put the fittings back on. Careful not to overtighten them. Some grease will also very likely squeeze out between the boot and the stud.

Richard

The wierd thing is that the grease doesn't come out even with the zerk fitting removed, the boot just bulges out. I guess with enough pressure the grease will come out the bottom end??