What is proper power steering pump bleeding procedure? Nothing seems to work!

[Slade88]

Just replaced my leaking pump, pulley, and high pressure line on my 88 C1500. I jacked the front wheels off the ground filled the PS pump up to the cold full line and with the engine OFF turned the wheel side to side bump to bump probably 200 times, I refilled the fluid occasionally but it didn’t seem to get much air out, some definitely came out though.

I let the truck sit overnight unbothered and this morning I went to turn the wheel again another hundred times and proceeded to start the engine, I turn the wheel to the sides and hear a bit of a whine from the pump, I shut the truck off and find foam in my fluid, I let the foam settle and refill the pump. A couple hours later I call a mechanic friend of mine and he told me I was doing it all wrong and needed to turn the wheel with the engine running, when I do this all I get is foam!

When turning the wheel with the engine running I hear all sorts of noise from the pump, should I continue the bleeding process even when I’m hearing noise?


I just can’t seem to get the air out of this pump!

Thank you for any responses!

 

[fancyTBI]

@Orpedcrow provided me with these HD scans of the FSM procedure. You can nab the FSM for FREE by checking the pinned posts in the engine/maintenance sub-forum.

@L31MaxExpress had this to say:

I do not go more than about 5 times lock to lock. Recheck the level and 5 times lock to lock. Once it stops drinking fluid from the reservoir, I fire it up let it run 30 seconds or so. Shut it off, recheck the level. Then fire it up and spin it lock to lock a few times. Then check the level again. Add as needed. The system will continue to purge any remaining air out of it for the next 10 to 100 miles and I check the level a few more times during that period. I have never had an issue doing it in this manner and I have worked on more than a few of these. My vans steering system was essentially dry when I put fluid in it and it is a hydroboost system. This method works on conventional and hydroboost systems. I do not see the need to wait overnight or for hours provided you keep fluid in the reservoir. The air is going to work its way out.

 

[Hipster]

Once it foams up you need to leave it sit. I prefer proper steering fluid opposed to ATF.

 

[Supercharged111]

Once it foams up you need to leave it sit. I prefer proper steering fluid opposed to ATF.

Doesn't regular PS fluid have more anti foam stuff? I just did this on my 2500 after I added a cooler and forgot to top it off. Had it foamed up good. Got it full with the engine running, turned it back and forth just a little, and let it sit over night to get rid of the bubbles. Next day good to go.

 

[Hipster]

Doesn't regular PS fluid have more anti foam stuff? I just did this on my 2500 after I added a cooler and forgot to top it off. Had it foamed up good. Got it full with the engine running, turned it back and forth just a little, and let it sit over night to get rid of the bubbles. Next day good to go.

messed with plenty of stuff that once it foamed up you're pretty much done for the day(component replacement) and fixed plenty of steering pump/box/rack leaks going back to correct fluid. Steering fluid is more along the lines of hydraulic fluid that actually has better lubricating qualities about it than ATF. Atf viscosity is like 5 hydraulic oil is 7.5-10 or better. Forget the exact numbers as it's been forever. Pto fluid, power steering, shock oil, motorcycle fork oil, all falls under hydraulic oil. Improper wives tale that atf is correct.. wiil it work ..yes... proper...no. Almost all hydraulic oils have anti-foam qualities. Doesn't matter if it's for a Ford or Massey-Fergusen PTO or trans. You can get 10,20,30wt fork/shock oil, it's still all hydraulic fluid. better off running to Tractor Supply for ISO 42 or 68 hydraulic fluid than dumping in ATF.

Bottom line, put the right shyt in it, it'll last longer.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

messed with plenty of stuff that once it foamed up you're pretty much done for the day(component replacement) and fixed plenty of steering pump/box/rack leaks going back to correct fluid. Steering fluid is more along the lines of hydraulic fluid that actually has better lubricating qualities about it than ATF. Atf viscosity is like 5 hydraulic oil is 7.5-10 or better. Forget the exact numbers as it's been forever. Pto fluid, power steering, shock oil, motorcycle fork oil, all falls under hydraulic oil. Improper wives tale that atf is correct.. wiil it work ..yes... proper...no. Almost all hydraulic oils have anti-foam qualities. Doesn't matter if it's for a Ford or Massey-Fergusen PTO or trans. You can get 10,20,30wt fork/shock oil, it's still all hydraulic fluid. better off running to Tractor Supply for ISO 42 or 68 hydraulic fluid than dumping in ATF.

Bottom line, put the right shyt in it, it'll last longer.

Funny the right stuff for Chrysler which used GM pumps and gearboxes for years IS ATF.

 

[Hipster]

Funny the right stuff for Chrysler which used GM pumps and gearboxes for years IS ATF.

Even Funnier is that I use hydraulic fluid in Mopar Saginaw and TRW pumps then and don't have the typical "leak" issues. lol certain circles know better than to use ATF.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Even Funnier is that I use hydraulic fluid in Mopar Saginaw and TRW pumps then and don't have the typical "leak" issues. lol

I have had ZERO issues using ATF to the point, I refuse to use the thicker hydraulic fluid in my GMs. When the steering is cold, it is sluggish with the hydraulic fluid because it is so thick and visous. I have had issues with leaks with the hydraulic fluid but not ATF. The thick hydraulic fluid also makes the fluid run hotter when the engine is regularly seeing higher rpm. The ATF will stay nice and red, the hydraulic fluid will turn dark and smell burned in no time.

 

[Hipster]

I have had ZERO issues using ATF to the point, I refuse to use the thicker hydraulic fluid in my GMs. When the steering is cold, it is sluggish with the hydraulic fluid because it is so thick and visous. I have had issues with leaks with the hydraulic fluid but not ATF. The thick hydraulic fluid also makes the fluid run hotter when the engine is regularly seeing higher rpm. The ATF will stay nice and red, the hydraulic fluid will turn dark and smell burned in no time.

Do it your way, I'll do it mine till I see an actual issue.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Do it your way, I'll do it mine to I see an actual issue.

Right there with you. My point was more I do not see either way technically being wrong. There are benifits and detriments to both fluid types when used for power steering fluid.