Suburban water ingress.

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SUBURBAN5

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This is what I'm talking about btw. It's called fusor 110b. I was gonna use it to seal any cracks around my burb. 1st I'm gonna sand it to bare metal then apply it.
Theres different type of applications for this. Here in houston 110b is what we stick with I think theres 110a or other models like 112 or something idk the difference accept some tried fast in heat other dries slow in cool weather and the others are for plastic

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HotWheelsBurban

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I had an '88 'Burban that the sheet metal above both rear wheels rotted away. I discovered that when I replaced the rear speakers. That was an easy fix. My '99 'Burban leaks in the right rear and sometimes under my weathertech floor mat on the front passenger floor is covered in condensation and the carpet below is wet. Haven't found that cause yet. For the right rear, so far I've: had the right rear glass removed and reinstalled. My body shop guy laughed at me when I asked him to it, but he was shocked when he removed it and discovered about 22 inches of the top rear window seal was not sealed. That reduced the water infiltration, but didn't stop it. Next, I replaced the cargo door hinges (a really unpleasant ordeal, though the doors are nice & solid again), but it still leaked, just not as bad. Next, I replaced all of the rubber weatherstripping for the cargo doors 100%. It is now much better, but still leaks!?!?!?!?! When I'm parked, the front end is higher than the rear due to the incline in front of my house and other than the car wash, water doesn't get in there at all and even the car wash now may or may not add water. I pulled back the rear carpet up to the right rear wheel tub to see what I could see. At the rear of that tub there is some rust, telling me it's been wet for a while. Last time it rained hard, this area was wet. Metal above the wheels is solid so I am baffled where the water is getting now, though there are seems that could be leaking. Need to pressure-water-test them when it gets warmer and see if I can discover the access point. Very frustrating. Oh, one of the first places I looked for the leak was the roof rack and rear brake light assembly on the roof. No water getting in there, but I did manage to spin three of the blind nuts that the roof rack screws fasten into. Another fun repair to replace the blind nuts and I siliconed each fastener when I reassembled the roof rack and brake lights just as an extra measure of precaution. I love my truck but what a nuisance leaks are.
The floorboard water on the right side could be 2 things. First is the screws in the cowl screen area can be loose. Second is there's a little rubber elbow on the firewall that drains the HVAC box. If it isn't there, you'll get drips and such on the passenger side floor. I know this will cause this problem because my other 99 Burb did this when we got it. Put the elbow on, no more wet floors.
Also, be sure the door weather strips are not damaged. That will also make leaks.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Today at work I had to patch some panels. Took some pics of the stuff we use. Just an idea

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It turns green whenever it starts to harden. Nasty stuff but really good for metal panels
 

Pinger

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I looked at the Fusor 110B on the 'net. Not sure if it's available in the UK and, the blurb is all about affinity to bear metal. I don't have to go down so far as the metal - just fill the cracks.

Looks like it sets hard - our equivalent epoxy is Araldite but it is quite thick (viscous) to apply though thins as it begins to set but needs heat for that. Not sure it would enter the cracks as it would prevent the air in them escaping. Ditto trying to squeeze in conventional body sealants.

For now, I'm thinking of Superglue and trusting capillary action to draw it in. Still some way off it being dry enough for any treatment so far. Months away probably.
 

Pinger

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Do the rubbing strips on the roof mount through or onto the roof? If the former , then another possible leak source.

Out driving briefly today and taking a right-hander got a sprinkling of water from the roof console! Only from the rearmost compartment, the one in front of it (middle one) is bone dry. Hard to tell if there's water getting in from above or it's just condensation.
 

Pinger

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Take a pic. There shouldn't be any water

I know there shouldn't be - but there was! Not that much mind, just a dribble. Which makes me think it might have been condensation.
Wherever the water is getting in, the windscreen is the glass that it appears condensed on. None of the other windows. Is there a clue in that? The windscreen isn't likely to be the coldest glass either as where the truck is parked, whatever sun there is falls on the front of the truck.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Well the front doesn't explain the leak in the rear left glass. I suspect you need new glass seals. And not the black rubber you see. That technically doesn't matter on those glass. I'm talking about the actual sealant they use to bond it to the frame. You live in extreme climates. So I bet its separating. If I had your suburban I pay somebody to pull it off clean both sides, prime the frame and rebond it to the truck. You can try to band aid it but it's not long term. But if money's tight it can technically work so long as you know where it's coming from. Last if you pull the front windshield PURCHASE new strips on the edges. You should have some on the edges of the glass where the door closes against. There about 2ftish long. I didnt know that when I did my truck and I wish I would of got new strips. I think there still available on the web. Maybe lmc
 

Pinger

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Seeing as someone has been reading this thread.... I'll update it.
I more thing to check out theres a seam on the roof edge of the pillar with the ls/lt badge. Over time it will crack. I doubt it's your cause. But seal it if its cracked before it gets worse. You cant miss it. Just go to the top if the pillar and you feel a small seam
It was the above. Tiny cracks I filled with a lacquer touch-up pen and no more water ingress.
 
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