Suburban down.

[SUBURBAN5]

Be aware, when you first connect the ammeter, there is a spike of like 3 amps. If you open the door, the lights are a 3 amp draw. You want the multimeter to be set to a position that can handle that.

There is a way to measure amp draw across fuses. It's not direct, you need to scale the reading.

I believe the parasitic drain in my suburban was the passenger's vanity mirror. The cover was half broken, and wasn't turning off all the time.

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My interior is off for sure and doors are closed. Visors are from a nbs. Otherwise your right that use to happen to me lol. Had to disconnect the wire.

 

[Pinger]

Yes whenever I disconnected the negative cable. I switch the meter to the setting you recommended and the hood light came on and I heard the alarm chirp. If the connection not solid then I believe it thinks it's being tampered with and goes off which triggers park lights, alarm, and dash lights. Once off it's fine. Meaning connection is solid. I just didnt know if that was too much current to flow through the meter.

Disconnect the hood light at its connector - that's that taken care of.
Now you need to disguise that you are disconnecting the battery. Do this by attaching a short jumper lead (it doesn't have to be any heavier a wire than those on your MM) between the battery negative post and the negative cable such that when you remove the big cable from the post the jumper maintains the circuit. Now connect your MM in place and disconnect the jumper. That way the vehicle never lost electrical contact with the vehicle and your alarm should continue sleeping.

 

[5vortec7]

Thanks for asking @HotWheelsBurban . When the time comes I think I'll most likely buy the kit from @5vortec7 . Been getting good reviews so when that time comes I'll send him a message .

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Just let me know, I’ll be around!

Also, I read back in your thread a bit and another good way to get the axles filled with gear oil when you do the work is to park one side of the rear axle up on a curb or jack one side up and let it sit there for a couple minutes, turn around and do the same for the other side, then check the level and top it off.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Just let me know, I’ll be around!

Also, I read back in your thread a bit and another good way to get the axles filled with gear oil when you do the work is to park one side of the rear axle up on a curb or jack one side up and let it sit there for a couple minutes, turn around and do the same for the other side, then check the level and top it off.

I'll try that. Thanks for the tip

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Disconnect the hood light at its connector - that's that taken care of.
Now you need to disguise that you are disconnecting the battery. Do this by attaching a short jumper lead (it doesn't have to be any heavier a wire than those on your MM) between the battery negative post and the negative cable such that when you remove the big cable from the post the jumper maintains the circuit. Now connect your MM in place and disconnect the jumper. That way the vehicle never lost electrical contact with the vehicle and your alarm should continue sleeping.

I see what your saying. I'll try it. When I connect the mm it should be on and in the setting right? Then remove the jumper?

 

[Pinger]

I see what your saying. I'll try it. When I connect the mm it should be on and in the setting right? Then remove the jumper?

Yes. Just in case the MM isn't conductive unless switched on. Then remove the jumper.

How easy getting the jumper to stay while removing the big cable depends on the type of battery. Ones with round posts on top are a bit of a pig. You have to go underneath the cable terminal with the jumper. Paring back a big length of insulation then wrapping the bare strands round the post will work though. You can do this with the cable off then reconnect it and commence the procedure from there. Bolt ons should be easier.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Yes. Just in case the MM isn't conductive unless switched on. Then remove the jumper.

How easy getting the jumper to stay while removing the big cable depends on the type of battery. Ones with round posts on top are a bit of a pig. You have to go underneath the cable terminal with the jumper. Paring back a big length of insulation then wrapping the bare strands round the post will work though. You can do this with the cable off then reconnect it and commence the procedure from there. Bolt ons should be easier.

Btw do you know acceptable voltage on either setting?

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[Pinger]

Btw do you know acceptable voltage on either setting?

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Shifting between Amps and mAmps requires a change of connector ports.
Match the symbols on the selector and the ports. The left port is Amps only. It will show in the lower right corner of the screen what is being read.

Start with Amps and the left hand connector port. For the current you are looking for, it should show easily enough on that scale. If you go in with the mAmp setting to begin with and get a current larger than 0.4A it will blow the MM's fuse. Some MM's with a blown fuse will still give a reading but it is totally wrong. My Fluke is owe me a fortnight wasted earlier this year.

Voltage an current aren't the same - don't confuse them.
To use a water analogy, voltage is pressure (potential) that wants to leak - like water behind a dam.
Current is flow - like when you open the dam and the water gushes forth.
Only flow is of interest to you - it's the actual leak you need to find - the flow that is being lost and absorbed somewhere. You already know what's forcing it - the battery.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Back to work tomorrow.. weekend goes by quick. I try to look at the suburban, before I go to bed lol. Making sure nothing new popped up... anyways walk to the living room and this little guy stole my seat. Cant even grab my robe because he claimed it too. Smh.

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[SUBURBAN5]

No real updates yet. But found a safe play area for my son.

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