Suburban down.

[SUBURBAN5]

No, but put sealant on the splines of the yoke. Don't go nuts, but don't go too light either. I usually work in in the groves with my finger.

So where the yoke goes on the shaft? Never thought of that

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

So where the yoke goes on the shaft? Never thought of that

Yes, the oil can wick up and leak via the center of the yoke.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Never thought of that. I'll try it. For the axle seal do I put sealant on the axle case and seal or no?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

It's also very tempting to tap the yoke off the pinion shaft. Sometimes you're OK but sometimes you damage the pinion bearing. You can generally get a universal steering wheel puller to work. I have a set of bearings in my tool box to show the noobs that don't believe me it can damage them

Never thought of that. I'll try it. For the axle seal do I put sealant on the axle case and seal or no?

I never do. I make sure the seal lip is coated with axle lube. IMO, I have never replaced just the seal when I have a leak. Generally the bearing is worn and the seal leaks because the axle has too much play. I can't afford any come backs so the seal and bearing both get replaced.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I never do. I make sure the seal lip is coated with axle lube. IMO, I have never replaced just the seal when I have a leak. Generally the bearing is worn and the seal leaks because the axle has too much play. I can't afford any come backs so the seal and bearing both get replaced.

Ok whenever I tackle this. Remove diff cover. Let it drain. Remove c clip. Put axle out. Remove seal. Bearings slide out? Or do I have to use a tool to pull that out?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Ok whenever I tackle this. Remove diff cover. Let it drain. Remove c clip. Put axle out. Remove seal. Bearings slide out? Or do I have to use a tool to pull that out?

This is the puny 7.5 but the procedure is the same.

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I don't use grease like he did. I like to take the gear lube bottle and soak the bearing, rub it around with my finger. It's important that once you have it back together and drive it you should violently swerve left to right to get the gear lube to slosh down the tubes to the bearings. Obviously don't go too fast while you are doing it LOL.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

This is the puny 7.5 but the procedure is the same.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I don't use grease like he did. I like to take the gear lube bottle and soak the bearing, rub it around with my finger. It's important that once you have it back together and drive it you should violently swerve left to right to get the gear lube to slosh down the tubes to the bearings. Obviously don't go too fast while you are doing it LOL.

Awesome I'll look into it. Thank you

 

[Supercharged111]

For the pinion seal, just mark where everything is and put it back there to ensure preload remains the same.

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[SUBURBAN5]

For the pinion seal, just mark where everything is and put it back there to ensure preload remains the same.

You must be registered for see images attach

Will do. I need a good paint pen lol.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

For the pinion seal, just mark where everything is and put it back there to ensure preload remains the same.

You must be registered for see images attach

Not a fan of this method. I know lot's of guys do it but it's too much black magic voodoo for me. Secondly, you should be using a new nut anyway so the marks won't help. People confuse crushing the sleeve with fastener torque. The factory taught method and the one I use is to simply re-tourge the nut. If you go ape **** and hammer on it with an impact then you can change the preload but if you torque it to 150lbs you won't crush the sleeve anymore and you have the nut torque set. and preload doesn't change.

New nut with red lock tight, you don't want it backing out.