Suburban down.

[SUBURBAN5]

I have an '89, so the the carpet may have been glued on differently, but I used Goo-Gone and a paint scraper. It made it pretty easy. Afterwards I just sanded it and shot it black.
View media item 32059

Didnt think about that. I'll have to play with it. Yours came out good

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Yes. Just in case the MM isn't conductive unless switched on. Then remove the jumper.

How easy getting the jumper to stay while removing the big cable depends on the type of battery. Ones with round posts on top are a bit of a pig. You have to go underneath the cable terminal with the jumper. Paring back a big length of insulation then wrapping the bare strands round the post will work though. You can do this with the cable off then reconnect it and commence the procedure from there. Bolt ons should be easier.

Ok you were right. I made sure everything was off then I installed the jumper. Soon as I did few sparks but nothing crazy. Need to make my meter stick on permanently. Dumb question do I have to remove the jumper or can I leave it on while testing. I just dont wanna break the current. Highest I found was .9. Also I'm assuming I need to duct tape the door sensor? Or not enough current gets drawed?

 

[Pinger]

Remove the jumper for the test otherwise it will conduct any current that you are looking for on the MM. As soon as you have the MM connected and switched on, the jumper can be disconnected.

Dome over-ride should take care of the door operated lights - or just wait until they have gone off.
0.9 A seems a little high. That equates to 10.8 Watts.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Remove the jumper for the test otherwise it will conduct any current that you are looking for on the MM. As soon as you have the MM connected and switched on, the jumper can be disconnected.

Dome over-ride should take care of the door operated lights - or just wait until they have gone off.
0.9 A seems a little high. That equates to 10.8 Watts.

Ok that's what I figured just trying to plan a way to stick the probes without having to hold it constantly lol.

 

[Pinger]

Ok that's what I figured just trying to plan a way to stick the probes without having to hold it constantly lol.

Vise grips to the battery post and little croc clip to the lead in my case.
The probes on my other MM slip into the little croc clips - very handy.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Vise grips to the battery post and little croc clip to the lead in my case.
The probes on my other MM slip into the little croc clips - very handy.

You must be registered for see images attach

Ok I got the test some what figured but now a little confused. Hopefully I did it right..
Starting mv was .012/.013 Only 2 fuses that dropped it significantly was battery fuse .07 Or ign a .07 I believe if I pulled both it dropped to .03 What's my next step??

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Pinger]

Next step is investigate why pulling those two fuses has that effect - ie find the fault.
Before embarking on that I'd verify that they are a problem. I'd hook up the battery with those fuses removed and walk away for the length of time the battery takes to drain with the recognised parasitic drain. If the battery doesn't discharge with those fuses removed in the same time frame then it reinforces the need to investigate them.

After that you have to disconnect individually items on the circuits those fuses serve. Ignition fuse serves the PCM I think. You can bypass the check in the first paragraph and dive straight in to component removal and monitoring the current.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Next step is investigate why pulling those two fuses has that effect - ie find the fault.
Before embarking on that I'd verify that they are a problem. I'd hook up the battery with those fuses removed and walk away for the length of time the battery takes to drain with the recognised parasitic drain. If the battery doesn't discharge with those fuses removed in the same time frame then it reinforces the need to investigate them.

After that you have to disconnect individually items on the circuits those fuses serve. Ignition fuse serves the PCM I think. You can bypass the check in the first paragraph and dive straight in to component removal and monitoring the current.

What does the battery fuse serve?

 

[Pinger]

Don't know.
Only guessing, but possibly the two live studs behind the fusebox?

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Don't know.
Only guessing, but possibly the two live studs behind the fusebox?

I think those are aux fuses. Not the battery lol. What's acceptable millivolts? I know the computer gonna have a current and I know the alarm. But should it be around .02? Or anything less then .05 or .50?