Suburban down.

[Pinger]

Can't remember exactly but I think circa 0.025A is acceptable but not much more. Your alarm will add to it but there should be a figure for that. Looking at my pic, a 1999 C2500 can be down to 0.01A. 0013A would be a good result - and where you are when you've lost the drag from whichever (or both) fuses.
I think dividing current draw into the battery's AmpHr figure gives the time in hours the battery can sustain the current. But it will be short of juice to spin the motor over long before that.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Can't remember exactly but I think circa 0.025A is acceptable but not much more. Your alarm will add to it but there should be a figure for that. Looking at my pic, a 1999 C2500 can be down to 0.01A. 0013A would be a good result - and where you are when you've lost the drag from whichever (or both) fuses.
I think dividing current draw into the battery's AmpHr figure gives the time in hours the battery can sustain the current. But it will be short of juice to spin the motor over long before that.

I'll keep digging. I think another test I'll try is with the meter testing the current flow through the fuses. Once I get a list of what all pulling what I'll check back in. Oh and to do that test I just need to hook the jumper up right. Then I can test across the fuses?

 

[Pinger]

I'll keep digging. I think another test I'll try is with the meter testing the current flow through the fuses. Once I get a list of what all pulling what I'll check back in. Oh and to do that test I just need to hook the jumper up right. Then I can test across the fuses?

Test across the fuses with the battery connected as normal.
The jumper is only for disconnecting the battery to test between it and its lead without losing electrical supply to the truck and activating the alarm (and avoiding the current spike that reconnection always gives).
It will work (testing across the fuses ) with the jumper but the battery's own connection is more robust.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Test across the fuses with the battery connected as normal.
The jumper is only for disconnecting the battery to test between it and its lead without losing electrical supply to the truck and activating the alarm (and avoiding the current spike that reconnection always gives).
It will work (testing across the fuses ) with the jumper but the battery's own connection is more robust.

Would it be on the same amp setting? Also do you know where I can get a wiring diagram for the battery fuse. Also is your hazard/stop fuse missing under the hood?

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Thanks for your help btw. I really appreciate it.

 

[Pinger]

Would it be on the same amp setting? Also do you know where I can get a wiring diagram for the battery fuse. Also is your hazard/stop fuse missing under the hood?

I had a quick look in the 'engine controls Vortec 5.7l 1996 & onwards' wiring diag in Haynes yesterday and couldn't see the battery fuse mentioned. Maybe it's on another page - I'll have a look later.
What year is your 'Burb?

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I had a quick look in the 'engine controls Vortec 5.7l 1996 & onwards' wiring diag in Haynes yesterday and couldn't see the battery fuse mentioned. Maybe it's on another page - I'll have a look later.
What year is your 'Burb?

Thank you. 98 c1500

 

[Pinger]

According to the GM handbook, BATT fuse serves 'Fuse Block Busbar'.
Can't find specific reference to it in Haynes and handbook doesn't identify which fuse block busbar - but there's only two to choose from. If the FCR then possibly why pulling it or the ENG fuse gives the same result, ie they are connected in series.
Both the handbook and Haynes show what the ENG fuse serves.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

According to the GM handbook, BATT fuse serves 'Fuse Block Busbar'.
Can't find specific reference to it in Haynes and handbook doesn't identify which fuse block busbar - but there's only two to choose from. If the FCR then possibly why pulling it or the ENG fuse gives the same result, ie they are connected in series.
Both the handbook and Haynes show what the ENG fuse serves.

Ok thanks. I wonder what's the fuse block bus bar?

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Got the ole cluster out. Gonna order leds for it. Got some pics of the wiring close up and where they enter the harness. Need to order new lower column cover too... also revealed more cracks that ima address. Hopefully nothing else pops up..... also gonna take the time to clean all over this dash. The dust has settled for 23yrs of being hidden away

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach