S10 springs for front drop?

[Treyes]

Im trying to find a low priced drop kit and saw a youtube video about a 3-4 inch drop using s10 v6 springs for the front. Anybody heard or done that? I know it sounds like a bad idea but seen a youtube video doing it and the dude said it handled better than stock

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Or just cut a coil off your springs.

 

[sewlow]

S-10 springs = Bad idea.
1 guy on a self-made youtube saying it's good is not what I would call a stellar review. What is his base of knowledge/experience & what exactly would he consider 'good handling'?
If this is such a great idea, why isn't it common knowledge? It's never come up on this forum before, that I'm aware of, & I've been here a while.

1 coil cut = approx. 2" in drop. Not recommended to cut more than one.
Then, install 2" drop spindles with some good shocks.
I just sold a set of BellTech drop spindles for $100.00 on C/L. Be patient & shop. They're out there. A bud picked up a set of DJM's outa the P-n-P wreckers for $50.00. To the girl at the check-out, they're just another set of spindles.
Dropped spindles & 1 coil cut is a proven concept that works as it should.
Why dick around with an unproven theory, only to have to take it all apart to do it all over again properly?
Save your pennies. Do it once. Do it right.

 

[Treyes]

S-10 springs = Bad idea.
1 guy on a self-made youtube saying it's good is not what I would call a stellar review. What is his base of knowledge/experience & what exactly would he consider 'good handling'?
If this is such a great idea, why isn't it common knowledge? It's never come up on this forum before, that I'm aware of, & I've been here a while.

1 coil cut = approx. 2" in drop. Not recommended to cut more than one.
Then, install 2" drop spindles with some good shocks.
I just sold a set of BellTech drop spindles for $100.00 on C/L. Be patient & shop. They're out there. A bud picked up a set of DJM's outa the P-n-P wreckers for $50.00. To the girl at the check-out, they're just another set of spindles.
Dropped spindles & 1 coil cut is a proven concept that works as it should.
Why dick around with an unproven theory, only to have to take it all apart to do it all over again properly?
Save your pennies. Do it once. Do it right.

Alright thanks for the advice, definitely cutting a coil off and buying spindles

 

[Treyes]

Or just cut a coil off your springs.

How many coils should i cut for a 4 inch drop?

 

[Erik the Awful]

1 coil cut = approx. 2" in drop. Not recommended to cut more than one.

Cut one coil and the spindles will get your further two inches.

Take note that cutting a coil will make the spring stiffer, not softer. Think of it like standing on the end of a 10' long diving board. If you cut off the last 2', standing at the end is no longer as springy.

 

[gearheadE30]

Cutting the spring will make it stiffer, but my experience was that it doesn't really make it stiff enough. Maybe it's okay on the trucks? I had endless bottoming problems on the Tahoe Limited with spindles, springs with a coil cut, and c notch/flip in the rear. Ended up with C2500 diesel front springs with a coil cut and express van 3500 shocks (similar factory spring rate but shorter) to get the front closer to where I want it, though I could still use some more damping. ZQ8 bump stops are great, too.

A lot of the aftermarket stuff seems to put you on or nearly on the bump stops with only an inch or two of bump travel. It is a little counter intuitive, but my experience has been that the ride quality with a stiffer setup that keeps you off the stops is much better than with a softer setup that is always hitting the end of travel. Good shocks also make a massive difference vs. cheap or poorly matched stuff. It all has to work together as a system.

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[TheAutumnWind]

Cutting the spring will make it stiffer, but my experience was that it doesn't really make it stiff enough. Maybe it's okay on the trucks? I had endless bottoming problems on the Tahoe Limited with spindles, springs with a coil cut, and c notch/flip in the rear. Ended up with C2500 diesel front springs with a coil cut and express van 3500 shocks (similar factory spring rate but shorter) to get the front closer to where I want it, though I could still use some more damping. ZQ8 bump stops are great, too.

A lot of the aftermarket stuff seems to put you on or nearly on the bump stops with only an inch or two of bump travel. It is a little counter intuitive, but my experience has been that the ride quality with a stiffer setup that keeps you off the stops is much better than with a softer setup that is always hitting the end of travel. Good shocks also make a massive difference vs. cheap or poorly matched stuff. It all has to work together as a system.

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Good call on the zq8 bumps. I like the idea of a more progressive bump stop. Looking into that now.

what rear bumps are you using?

 

[gearheadE30]

Good call on the zq8 bumps. I like the idea of a more progressive bump stop. Looking into that now.

what rear bumps are you using?

I originally used the hard polyurethane adjustable pucks that came with the C notch kit, but those things are absolutely brutal when you do hit the stop. Then I switched to NBS tahoe rear bump stops, which are similar to ZQ8s but quite a bit shorter. Tahoes have pretty limited space in the rear because of the fuel filler running over the axle, so I am actually running ZQ8 stops in the back now also to give me a taller bump stop and a bit more safety margin for that tank filler.

Unloaded, with the stiff leaf springs, it never hits even the taller ZQ8 stops in the rear. When I'm towing, or hauling a motorcycle on the hitch carrier, and hit a big bump on the highway is the only time the rear bump stops ever seem to come into play.