Replacing Vortec fuel pump, pulling bed

[Stephen]

A picture from the rear. It looks small that way. Backing up sure is easy.

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I don't even have a pine tree, but somehow I have a pinecone.

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Here's where I could use some advice. I have the quick connects, and I've seen tools for disconnecting them, but I don't have clearance to use them. Last time I did this, I got one off somehow (don't rememebr how), and the other one I simply broke, and then used the tool to remove the leftover piece. I'd rather not do that because that means the pump is complete trash at that point.

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The tool(S) for that can be purchased at Harbor Freight. Comes in a set.

 

[Sparkysikes]

Last tools needed. 12 pack of beer and 3 friends. Hand em the first beer when the bed comes off. Tell them it's 2 more when the bed goes back on. That worked for me!

 

[someotherguy]

I actually thought about switching to the older pump, but I can't seem to find out anything about the fittings. I would need to be able to form the end of the steel line properly too.

Would need pre-1998 tank, sender/pump, and lines...the old style sender won't fit your tank. Then if yours is equipped with the tank pressure sensor and utilizes it, you wouldn't have that feature anymore and likely set a code. (extra connector on sender that looks sort of like a MAP sensor - some have it, some don't)

Richard

 

[Michael Oliveira]

The truck wouldn't start Sunday night. Monday I spent time checking various things out, and verified to myself that the 14 year old dealer purchased pump should probably be replaced. My last trick was to whack the bottom of the gas tank.... the pumped primed, so it's drivable again at least in a limited amount.

I started prepping the bed to pull it. I broke one bolts, and successfully unscrewed 7. I still have the taillights, bumper, and the receiver may need to come off too.

The bed bolts and bumper bolts are pretty crusty. Even after wire wheeling them, I'd like to replace them. I haven't checked the dealer yet for replacements, but when I checked 14 years ago they were quite expensive.

The bed bolts are a 12mm with a captured washer. What have you used to replace them?

The bumper bolts are also a 12mm with a captured washer, with lock nuts. The frame and bracket holes may be large enough to switch to 1/2" hardware. What have you used as replacements?

I used all stainless replacements from Home Depot and Lowes. same thing with bumper bolts with flat washers and blue lock-tite

 

[454cid]

Would need pre-1998 tank, sender/pump, and lines...the old style sender won't fit your tank. Then if yours is equipped with the tank pressure sensor and utilizes it, you wouldn't have that feature anymore and likely set a code. (extra connector on sender that looks sort of like a MAP sensor - some have it, some don't)

Richard

Thanks Richard, I wondered about the tank. I do not have the pressure sensor, but noticed it while looking online.

 

[Jared Jackson]

I think I would take advantage of having that bed off and do some cleaning/inspecting under there. Lot's of guys come up with easy ways to not pull the bed and replace the pump. I hope to, one day, plan on removing the bed and knocking out some maintenance under there BEFORE the pump pukes. But that never happens in the real world, right?

 

[pro17]

That might be another good reason for removing the bed. When I did mine, it was filthy underneath. Not rust, just globs of dirt and mud that couldn't be power washed without the bed gone.

 

[Joe Dirte]

I never took a close look at my 98s tank when i did the bed swaps with my 96. 96 had bolt up lines. Well now 98 may need a tank. Should I make it easy on myself and get the 96 set up with lines and pump? Will the pump plug be the same?

 

[454cid]

I never took a close look at my 98s tank when i did the bed swaps with my 96. 96 had bolt up lines. Well now 98 may need a tank. Should I make it easy on myself and get the 96 set up with lines and pump? Will the pump plug be the same?

I guess it depends on what you're trying to do. My idea was to make lines, but I have no idea what the threaded connectors are, so I still can't make them. If it were double flare it would be no problem, but they use an o-ring according to what I've seen online. If you're just going to buy lines I'm not sure there is an advantage to the older design.... well maybe replacing just the pump and not the whole module and being able to disconnect them with wrenches.

I think the older pump design uses only 3 conductors, not 4, so there is that to work out too.

I am thinking that for me... I don't see a big advantage to switching to the older design at this point.

 

[454cid]

Well, the pump is finally supposed to be here tomorrow. It arrived in town late Friday, and has been sitting at the local UPS depot all weekend, I don't get much through UPS, so I'm not sure how they normally work, but between Advance and UPS getting this thing has been slow and aggravating. I ordered the pump on Thursday, the 13th, and Monday it hadn't shipped yet, so I opened a chat with Advance. They said it was supposed to ship that day... all they did was print the label. UPS didn't get it until the 18th, in California, then it disappeared. On each day it would tell me to expect activity by 11:59pm, and 11:59 would come and go with no new info. On the 21st it appeared in Michigan, and boom boom boom, one stop after another was recorded. I sent UPS an email right before movement was seen on tracking again, and they sent me a generic message that told me nothing. I don't know if it was lost/delayed or of that's standard with them. With Fedex and the Post Office I can watch packages move across the country.

Today I finally removed the bad brake line. I should have had that done days ago, but I got tired of going out to where the truck is everyday and took a few days off. I still have to order my bolts, but I'm sure McMaster will get them to me fast.