Replacing Vortec fuel pump, pulling bed

[454cid]

The truck wouldn't start Sunday night. Monday I spent time checking various things out, and verified to myself that the 14 year old dealer purchased pump should probably be replaced. My last trick was to whack the bottom of the gas tank.... the pumped primed, so it's drivable again at least in a limited amount.

I started prepping the bed to pull it. I broke one bolts, and successfully unscrewed 7. I still have the taillights, bumper, and the receiver may need to come off too.

The bed bolts and bumper bolts are pretty crusty. Even after wire wheeling them, I'd like to replace them. I haven't checked the dealer yet for replacements, but when I checked 14 years ago they were quite expensive.

The bed bolts are a 12mm with a captured washer. What have you used to replace them?

The bumper bolts are also a 12mm with a captured washer, with lock nuts. The frame and bracket holes may be large enough to switch to 1/2" hardware. What have you used as replacements?

 

[Gavin]

I was just going to order the hopefully acceptable hardware that LMC offers; but glad you asked, I'd be interested to see what others say.

 

[strikk]

With a little bit of diligence I have used McMaster-Carr for reasonable prices on various bolts/nuts/washers etc. Measurements and thread pitch(count) will need to be understood before you can make an order though

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-hex-head-screws

EDIT: Doing some research on the interwebs it appears (don't take my word for it!) you need M12x1.75x35 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#90373A123 pack of 5 costs $8.34 + shipping

 

[454cid]

EDIT: Doing some research on the interwebs it appears (don't take my word for it!) you need M12x1.75x35 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#90373A123 pack of 5 costs $8.34 + shipping

They're 35mm long, but a good portion of that is not threaded. I think it's so that the bolts can be run in by automatic wrench and not cross thread. A 25mm would probably work, but I may use a 30mm.

Any reason why you linked to a grade 12.9 and not a 10.9?

 

[strikk]

Any reason why you linked to a grade 12.9 and not a 10.9?

I wasn’t paying attention. Class 12.9 is definitely stronger if it’s available from them then for sure go with that one


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[someotherguy]

I still have the taillights, bumper, and the receiver may need to come off too.

No need to remove any of that stuff. Just the bed bolts. You could leave the rearmost 2 bolts in but loosened, and lift the front of the bed using an engine hoist and a strong strap or chain across the stake pockets. Plenty of room to do the pump.

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Richard

 

[454cid]

No need to remove any of that stuff. Just the bed bolts. You could leave the rearmost 2 bolts in but loosened, and lift the front of the bed using an engine hoist and a strong strap or chain across the stake pockets. Plenty of room to do the pump.

Unfortunately, I don't have the hoist. I've gotten the bumper and receiver off, now. The bed is ready to move, and should be sitting on some big cherry blocks by this evening. I still have to order a pump and lines. The lines need to be replaced, as at least one is super rusty. $137 plus shipping from Rockauto :-/ I wish I could bend regular line and clamp some fuel injection hose on the end. I'm not sure if it would last. Even before the quickconnects, GM used screw on fittings with o-rings.

I just cleaned the grime off the reciver and bumper bolts a few minutes ago. They are super crusty. Even worse than the bed bolts. I did notice something odd, and I don't know if I can replicate this. Some of the bolts are flange bolts, plus have an even larger captured washer. I'm thinking that must be what I pulled off the receiver, and are due to the weight it has to handle. Maybe some super thick washers from McMaster-Carr will do.

Please tell me you pressure washed that frame Richard!

 

[94burbk1500]

No need to remove any of that stuff. Just the bed bolts. You could leave the rearmost 2 bolts in but loosened, and lift the front of the bed using an engine hoist and a strong strap or chain across the stake pockets. Plenty of room to do the pump.

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Richard

This is how I did it in my S10 recently, didn't have a hoist so I just used a jack and a section of 4x4, pretty simple once you win the fight against the bolts.

 

[454cid]

I just wire wheeled those flange bolts that have the captured washer. The threads aren't as bad I as I thought. It looks like I used Loctite on them last time I had them out.

 

[Supercharged111]

No need to remove any of that stuff. Just the bed bolts. You could leave the rearmost 2 bolts in but loosened, and lift the front of the bed using an engine hoist and a strong strap or chain across the stake pockets. Plenty of room to do the pump.

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Richard

Well damn, I never thought of trying it that way. Nice and easy to set it back down too. Easy way to get at the frame for a cleaning too.