Question about oem vs aftermarket Timing cover

[Fred5280]

Why do so many timing covers for sale come without the timing marker? isnt this essential,or am i missing something? The oem cover on my 350 is attached to the cover itself not bolted to the side

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[81nascar]

Most of the time they don't know what balancer you are using. As most are "universal" covers. Some balancers are bigger than others. So everyone just uses the type of markers that you can bolt on to the timing cover bolts.. With most computer trucks your initial timing is pretty much locked in anyway.. The distributors aren't like the old one's where you can move them around.

 

[BOOT]

Because engine builders prefer to set TDC mark exactly for a build and not get it close like mass produced. I like the ones with an adjustable pointer.

edit: Also there are a few diff size harmonic dampers

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

And if it's a vortec, you need to have the mounting holes for the crankshaft position sensor. Without that sensor, the truck won't start or run. I think there's aftermarket versions of the vortec compatible timing cover available now. Back in the day, you were stuck with the factory style.

 

[df2x4]

I think there's aftermarket versions of the vortec compatible timing cover available now.

Yup, Holley makes them for the Vortec V8s. Part numbers 21-152 (natural aluminum) and 21-153 (black).

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/timing_covers/parts/21-152

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/timing_covers/parts/21-153

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Yup, Holley makes them for the Vortec V8s. Part numbers 21-152 (natural aluminum) and 21-153 (black).

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/timing_covers/parts/21-152

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/timing_covers/parts/21-153

Have the Holley one on my 383. Vastly superior to the plastic POS that had to be changed every few years.

 

[Joe Dirte]

Have the Holley one on my 383. Vastly superior to the plastic POS that had to be changed every few years.

Stupid question but did u have to drop pan? I cant remember on mine cuz with all the issues im havin on a no start its startin to look like the crank reluctor.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Not sure about the Holley cover, but you have to drop the pan with the factory plastic one. Been there done that......

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Stupid question but did u have to drop pan? I cant remember on mine cuz with all the issues im havin on a no start its startin to look like the crank reluctor.

You have to drop the pan on any of them if you have a 1 piece oil pan gasket. Its a good idea to drop the pan on all of them to ensure you get a leak free seal.

Chance of a reluctor wheel failing is slim to none. Its a solid hunk of metal.

 

[Pinger]

Stupid question but did u have to drop pan? I cant remember on mine cuz with all the issues im havin on a no start its startin to look like the crank reluctor.

According to Haynes etc, just lowering the front of the pan is enough - if the gasket doesn't break..... (mine did).

Proximity!
Can you stick a bit of masking tape on the end of the CPS and insert into timing cover - and keep adding until it skiffs the reluctor wheel? Then measure thickness of layers of tape for clearance.

Have you removed the CPS again? Wondering if there's swarf.
To check if the reluctor has become loose - can you try spinning it via the CPS hole?
I'd still try and check for a signal on an MM before digging into the timing cover.