Door latch mechanism functions? Parts blowup?

[RichLo]

1989 K1500 SCLB plow truck. The drivers side door has no electronics... manual locks, crank window, mirror, etc.

The problem started last fall, the inside door handle stuck in the open position and the door wouldn't latch. It was like this all winter but being a plow truck I just dealt with it until yesterday when I went to try to fix it...

Well, I took it all apart and the handle is moving fine, but the actual mechanism inside the door is the frozen / rusted part. I took it apart and realized that I couldn't easily remove it to look at it on the bench. So I drowned it with pentrating oil and put 1 out of 3 bolts back to hold it in place and the wind caught the door and shut it somehow... Now it is stuck closed and I don't know how to open it. Luckily the rods are all exposed on the inside but they are definitely stuck at the latch, not the handle. And after all the messing with it trying to remove the latch from the door, the outside door handle just flops around now too.

I guess I fixed the original problem but now its a drinkers-side entry only truck.

Any Ideas? Maybe if I see a parts blowup I can figure out a way to open the door without using a sawzall.

 

[AK49BWL]

If you can get your hand into the door behind the outside handle, there's a little lever close to the latch you can push down on and that should pop the latch open. I've done this on so many salvage yard trucks... Hopefully the door is unlocked otherwise this doesn't work, but at the same time, you can toggle the lock there at the latch as well... Just takes some practice and probably time to figure it out. Definitely no need to bring a sawzall to it tho lol.

It sounds like you have the interior panel off tho if the rods are exposed, so if worst comes to worst you can also remove the interior metal plate on the inside of the door to get interior access to the latch... There are numerous 7mm screws around the plate's perimeter. I just don't know if it's actually possible to fully remove it without being able to open the door...

 

[RichLo]

Yea, I had everything removed from the inside and I had the access plate also completely removed when I was trying to fish out the latch. But since the window crank and window frame was attached to that plate, I put everything back together temporarily when the wind latched the door. I only have a couple of those 7mm screws holding the access plate onto the door to keep the window rolled up and 1 bolt holding the latch to the door.

I can easily take everything apart again besides the 1 bolt holding the door latch on.

Something rusted solid inside the latch where the inside door handle wont move and I cant push or pull on the rod going through the door. And the outside handle got disconnected somehow during my latch removal attempt.

 

[chevius]

INCREDIBLE. I've been on this one myself for a few weeks. (hope to add pix later today and/or start a new thread - can't right now) Figuring a new thread is the righter thing to do maybe? - so i'd also mention this post in my new post i figure.

SHORT-VERSION

FIRST DRIVE AFTER WINTER -- for quite some months before winter the inside door handle wouldn't do anything reliably, same with outer handle - HOWEVER I simply didn't understand that parked for months getting worse could become a show-stopper.


1) my driver's door is perma-locked. Door wouldn't shut fully for months, i was in a rush to drive to do a dump run - manually flipped the latch bit down, slammed door, and now no can open door - AND no dump run- hahaha

2) I've deduced that the lock mechanism is rusted and/or mangled. (left over winter with door not quite shut - (neglected door pins) inside handle when pulled didn't, and now really doesn't move the latch mechanism at all - pulling rod manually also won't budge the latch mechanism. YET the other rod will manually lock and unlock the door. ADDITIONALLY: the outer door handle doesn't work either - which is a lesser point i believe.

3) WITH door UN-openable I've managed to get everything apart though I CANNOT get panel off as windows regulator rollers are in the channels - i did manage to kinda force the lower roller out of it's channel

4) all latest attempts done with window up as i'd be concerned about regulator spring if window is down

PRETTY HELLISH - yet makes me laugh as well

The lesson i'll never learn? Don't neglect automotive issues, like door pins.


CLARIFICATION: AS MY DRIVER DOOR IS PERMA-SHUT currently --> I may not be able to get the entire inner panel off ? -> because the upper windows regulator rollers are in the channels (with the window up)

Can't rotate the entire panel of course as door shut. Wonder if I went thru the hassle/risk of lowering the window would i be able to get the rollers out of the channel -- lower roller free already with windows up - I managed to push it past the channel end - so it's free.

SORRY if all this should be in new post ?
I've kept adding bits so hope it's still relevant to this thread.

 

[RichLo]

Nope, totally relevant!

Just an update and possibly help you out. I was able to get the door open with a long flat-head screwdriver. I needed a bright flashlight and to have the window all the way down to see the lever that I had to move... luckily it had to be pressed down so it was pretty easy. If you wiggle the handle you should see which one it is.

Anyway, I was able to get it to shut reliably and open with the screwdriver which I figured would loosen up with time and generous amounts of penetrating oil so I was done for the day. Then rolling up the window, the roller track decided this is the time to let loose. So now I have another new problem with the same damn door!

I'm thinking about just taking the door off and trying to rebuild it from a bench or if I'm lucky enough, a good used one might pop up on craigslist or something. If I do that I could take my time getting the latch mechanism out and carefully remove the glass to replace the roller channel and do both door pins while I'm in there.

Frustrating but I'm glad the window didn't get stuck down in the middle of winter!

 

[RichLo]

Just ordered parts from RA. $87 for a new latch, window track and two hinge pin kits.

It'll be the best functioning door with rust holes ever!

 

[chevius]

[SLIGHT PREAMBLE BIT]

AS IT's MY DRIVER DOOR THAT WON'T OPEN

1) I've had my passenger door entirely gutted for quite some while -- as needed to replace the window and then a "mangled by me" PASSENGER side power window regulator. In my haste I assumed the wrecker was correct about the regulator he handed me being a passenger side one - it wasn't - so since before Christmas I've been looking (not very hard) for a passenger side regulator. I'm gonna be great-enough with doors after all this!

2) Here's a couple of locking Mechanism service manual images - Having had my passenger door gutted I KNOW that pulling the rod SHOULD unlatch the door as long as the door's not locked, which is done with the OTHER rod.

3) Would love to think that a screw driver will help - BIG THANKS (understatement that) for any confidence - assists - ideas. Because the locking mechanism shown in images is currently not letting even my hardest push pull do anything at all. (THE rod attached to the INSIDE handle i mean)

I figure I need to get the regulator out and therefore the entire inside panel off - ALL WITH THE DOOR CLOSED. and then go nuts trying stuff with the locking mechanism. MAYBE NOT though way way harder to try stuff with the inner panel still on and regulator there also obviously.

ALSO, i know from experience and then thinking hard lately - that the window up means the regulator spring isn't under tension so can't let go and do some body hurting. (That happens a wee bit disassembling the passenger door last year)

So, i've got the window up right now and got the lower regulator roller forced out of the channel.

MAYBE i should lower the window and then i can free the top regulator roller and get the panel and regulator off?? NAW, that would be too easy right-? hahaha

Anyways, great to be here and still amazed after a few weeks of searches to stumble upon this. Peaceful to know it's not just me - heh-heh

Not really 'misery' sorting out the results of my neglect -> expecting to be improved by remembering this one and some others in the future, so no 'misery' jokes there.

NO RUSH - and real interesting. Whatever happens always fine here for sure.




EDIT: one typo i saw. kinda not worth fixing or mentioning, though*-)
*Thought about WD40

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[RichLo]

LOL, that is exactly what happened to me, that pivoting bit froze up in the 'open' position. and the out door rod (figure 7 in the first pic) got out of its home when I originally had the latch mechanism loose trying to figure out how to remove it from the door... so that outside handle wouldn't do anything, lol.

The pivoting mechanism your pointing to is what I pushed down to reset it to the closed position then I was able to use the inside handle to re-open the door then I could reset the lever again with the screwdriver. Yes, spray lots of lube on that pivot. WD40 is ok but an actual penetrating oil is better. IDK how mine was able to latch but something got reset with all of the messing around when the door was open. Maybe having the outside door handle rod removed allows the latch to reset even if the inside one is stuck in the open position???

Thank you for those pictures BTW!

And edit: if there is any way you can get the window down, do it. That was the only way I was able to see anything and get the right angle to get the screwdriver down there. You'll need about 18-24" screwdriver.

 

[Keeper]

Ha... I just played this game too on a 99!! Closed door and neither handle worked. The window was stuck down so it was easy to come down to the latch from above with a long rod to push down on the latch mechanism that the outdoor handle's latch rod usually pushes down on. It's the vertical rod for the outdoor handle directly above where that inside red arrow is pointing. Same latching mechanism but different pressure point. I think I am saying the same thing as @RichLo was saying about that rod #7, but even if if that rod was still in position, it should be able to be pushed down with more force than our crappy outdoor handles can do.

Do the early doors have a door vent under the latch? Super easy to work the latch out through there if so.

 

[chevius]

Though I'd get out there today -- was feeling reinvigorated and half-way hoping/expecting success getting door open, VIA -> pressing on either of the 'latching mechanism' rod end parts -- plus some penetrating liquid quite possibly.

Not going for getting the panel/regulator totally off as with the door closed that could be messy I'm guessing.

OH - i think it was 95 for sure that they changed the interior some. I saw a youtube vid by AA Auto (?), the blue intro screen vids - was very good vid and i noticed, i think, for one, the power window wiring was was easier to get out of the 3 switches from the back.

When the latching mechanism is mangled or immovable (door lock rod) AND when the actual latch that hits the striker is WELL SHUT i figure it's a real problem - would love to be dumb-wrong. I've been on it for quite some whiles, much disassembly (with door shut) and no matter how much i try to get the rod to move no luck. OPTIMISTIC THOUGH.

Will write properly after tomorrow's attempts.
currently 2:30 a.m. westcoast - and a quick note.