Purchase Considerations

[Scooterwrench]

Can I use a magnet to determine between metal and bondo?

I like to use one of those magnetic sheets that usually have some kind of advertising on them,bet you have at least one on your fridge. They're not so strong that they will pull to the metal through a thick layer of bondo.

 

[Hipster]

Then what course of action do you recommend taking? Not trust anybody's claims ever?

I always assume they're full of BS unless I can prove otherwise. I always assume it might not make it home. Saw dust in the trans, motor Honey in the engine etc. Some people call a can of spray paint a rebuild and others call the engine new when it came from a salvage yard. There are all kinds of tricks flippers and used car dealers use to get one over the curb.

Caveat Emptor

The wrong magnet will stick over a 1/4 inch of body filler, what you're looking for is a mil guage/ paint thickness gauge. The refer magnet is not a bad idea and at least let you know if it's been packed full of bondo.

 

[RLC2020]

I agree with what Hipster said, you have to go look at it, until then anything in the ad or in an email should be trusted about as much as an IRS agent saying they just want to talk to you. I've seen trucks listed as needing work that were actually really decent and vehicles listed as "mint" that were utter garbage.

Personally, I would trust a well maintained truck with 150k original miles vs one with an unknown "rebuilt" engine and trans.

I've found that a nice long 20+min test drive can tell you more than anything an email or an ad could. Stop at a gas station and throw $20 in it to make up for the long test drive. It'll either get you home, or be money well spent when issues pop up after the first 10min

 

[grampadirt]

Look to see if the SES light comes on when turning the key,if not something's wrong because it should come on then go out if all is Ok.
Went to look at an S10 for my son and when I turned the key on there was no light,...told the guy see ya later.Magically on our way home the guy called and said he found the bulb he had removed to deceive prospected buyers.If you have access to a scanner take it with you it may give you a ton of info.

 

[Caman96]

I’d prefer to spend a few thousand more for a lower mileage truck. I see them occasionally in the 90-120,000 mile range for around 10k.

 

[crowfather]

Thanks for all the insight people. I will look at it on Friday. I'll be sure to bring my rockauto fridge magnet.

I have no problem walking away if its just not right. The seller does seem to have a lot of receipts. What keys should I look for on the receipts? I don't think shops typically put the VIN on their invoices.

I am also not afraid of some drivetrain work. I am no mechanic, but a decent and a half wrencher. I am more afraid of body and frame work since I am no welder, and I know fab shops are quite expensive.

 

[Hipster]

Thanks for all the insight people. I will look at it on Friday. I'll be sure to bring my rockauto fridge magnet.

I have no problem walking away if its just not right. The seller does seem to have a lot of receipts. What keys should I look for on the receipts? I don't think shops typically put the VIN on their invoices.

I am also not afraid of some drivetrain work. I am no mechanic, but a decent and a half wrencher. I am more afraid of body and frame work since I am no welder, and I know fab shops are quite expensive.

yeah not trying to scare you but any used vehicle is an unknown. Even a professional level pre-purchase inspection might not reveal all.

As a body guy I have noticed these trucks have some common issues: rockers and cab corners as far as sheet metal, as far as frame, the front rails where it comes together with the lca mounts etc is a pocket that collects dirt and moisture, under the frame where the where it transitions from the boxed section undercab to unboxed tend to get pretty crusty , and the the rear crossmember/spare carrier tend to rust away from the frame. Others may have more to add. If you see large patches of fish scale flaky looking rust, look closely, poke with Ice pick etc, It might be less than solid.

Imma be honest here, even as a body guy that can do all that type of work including putting one on a frame machine, I'd still rather buy one with a a solid frame and foundation and swap an engine in. Why? because It's a 4 hr bolt in. Frame swaps, frame repairs, body /paint work, panel/rocker/cab corners takes days/weeks and thousands in materials and lots of labor hours to complete.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Go look at it! If it is what they claim then you will have a good truck to start with. If you don't have good mechanical knowledge then take someone with you that does or take it to someone that does. Chances are very good you will have to replace some parts and the only way out of that is to buy a brand new truck for a brand new price.
As an example I bought a 91 C1500 for $3500 with a solid rust free body and decent paint and have spent another $1500 in parts on it and now have a nice truck that I can drive for the next 20yrs.

 

[crowfather]

Went to see it. Pretty much everything was as advertised. No rust at all like he said. Frame, body mounts, door panels, cab corners are all clean. Used my magnet and found no bondo. Additionally, either the steering components were impeccably maintained or they had been replaced as well since the center link, tie rods, pitman arms, etc., all still had paint on them. The pictures didn't capture some of the paint blemishes well. Ended up having some hail damage on the hood and roof, no paint chips but the clear coat was damaged. I am not too bothered by that. Did a long-ish test drive in the mountains (40 miles). Accelerates well, moves through all the gears, no problems uphill. Stopping is fine, but I do understand now why some people dislike the long brake pedal travel on these. 4WD works. There is a little bit of looseness to the steering when going straight and level. Oil looked recently changed so that gave some pause. The paperwork showing the engine and trans being done matches the vin. The engine is very smooth and quiet at idle which matches with a low miles engine. There is a slight whine when under light throttle that the guy chased for two years. He was told it might be a "ring and pinion" in the rear axle. He bought a junkyard axle and replaced it, but the sound remained. To top it all off, he had a box of parts and documents detailing the work done on the truck. I only verified the engine and trans with the VIN however.

In the end I did buy it from him for $6400. I drove the truck home 400 miles and it handled it well. Got something like 19-20 mpg. I may do a brake upgrade, attempt to tighten the steering up, or repair/PM the clear coat damage. All in all, I am happy with that price and I intend to hold onto it for a while.

 

[Erik the Awful]

That sounds like a solid score. Congratulations!

Pics or it didn't happen.