97SubMan
I'm Awesome
To help out anyone who might not know how to swap a PS Pump, I figured I'd try to throw together a good write-up:
Items Needed:
-One thing that is a MUST HAVE on this job is a pulley puller/press. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store, some even rent them so that you can return it when done and get 100% of your money back.
-An average collection of sockets and wrenches
-Other than that you're going to need either a 1-7/16ths" open ended wrench OR a gigantic crescent wrench.
-Some power steering fluid to fill your new pump with.
-ANDDD a new PS Pump (duhh
)
Step 1: Remove the upper fan shroud. There are 7 10mm screws that hold it on. Also you're going to need to undo any other clips that may be supporting things attached to your shroud (I had 2, one for an electrical wire and the other was a breather tube)
Step 2: Remove the clutch fan.
I fabricated a tool suggested by Ginger (I used steel instead of aluminum) to hold the hexheads (1-7/8ths" on center between the two holes) on the backside of the fan and a GIANT crescent wrench to loosen the 1-7/16ths" nut (it's standard thread). Place the fabricated tool (it makes life SO much easier...TRUST ME!) onto two of the hexheads behind the clutch fan on the bottom (so that your wrench has clearance on top to grab) and place the wrench onto the nut behind the fan. Have someone hold the fabricated tool very tightly and have another person whack (we used a 5 lb sledge hammer) the wrench towards the passengers side of the vehicle to loosen the fan nut. Once the nut breaks its initial seal you can just spin the fan (while supporting the front of it at all times!) right off with no problem. Be careful as you remove the fan not to drop it and punch a hole through your radiator!
Step 3: Remove the lower fan shroud by unscrewing the 2 remaining 10mm screws and take it out the engine bay to get a better view of everything from below.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt. Some people say that you don't need to do this step but I'm not quite sure why, it definitely made the job easier
. Loosen the tensioner pulley hex nut (the one below the alternator) and push the tensioner pulley towards the crankshaft with one hand and slip the belt off the closest/easiest pulley with the other.
Step 5: Remove the 2 pressure hoses from the PS pump, one is clamped (hose clamp) onto the metal tube coming out of the back of the pump(return line), the other is a threaded line that has a 5/8ths hex nut(sending line), make sure that you have a drain pan under the pump at this point because there will be fluid in those lines!
Step 6: Pull the pulley. I pulled mine with it mounted in the truck so that I didn't have to put the pump in the vice to be held. For this step your going to need to follow the directions that come with the puller that you bought/rented from your local auto parts store. Just for a visual this is what it should look like vvv
Step 7: Remove the 3 mounting bolts from the front and the 2 mounting nuts on the back. The three on the front are easily visible/accessible and are in the 2 o'clock 10 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions (you don't technically have to remove the one in the 4 o'clock position but I did to free up room for extraction of the pump). The two hex nuts on the back are where the mounting bracket meets the 2 studs that are sticking out from the block area (one up high and one below). Be careful as you loosen the last nut because the weight of the pump is about 20lbs and needs to be supported and rested on the steering linkage for step 8. Sadly I didn't get a picture of the bolts
Step 8: Once you've carefully placed/wedged the pump onto the steering linkage so that it's not going to fall, remove the electronic plug that is coming out of the plug on the backside of the pump. There is a red clip that needs to be lifted away from the plug in order to get the plug out, I used a small flathead screwdriver to lift that clip and then wiggled and pulled the plug out.
Step 9: Guide that pesky pump off your steering linkage and up out of your engine bay (I then dumped whatever fluid remained in there into my drain pan). Now you need to strip everything (hardware etc.) off of the old pump in order to use it on the new one. There are some simple studs on there that come right off, but there is also a large elbow that is mounted with a big hex-style nut that holds the plug socket and outgoing fluid passage for the pump. This needs to be removed with a large wrench (not sure which size) that I didn't have, sooo I resorted to the vice grip method
This is what the pump looks like after reassembling all hardware back onto it
(my farm in the background
)
NOTICE: If you have the same style of power steering that I have you're going to have to remove a 1" hex nut off of the new pump reservoir in order to reconnect that big elbow that is for the outgoing fluid! Don't get discouraged when you get home and the pump looks a little different like I did! hahaha
Step 10: Reverse all the steps just mentioned and put it all back together!
Step 11: Chock the back wheels and jack the front of the truck up until your wheels just leave the ground, then fill the reservoir up to the "Cold Full" line (but leave the cap off). Next start your truck and turn the wheel crank to crank 12 times in order to work fluid through the system and to get any air bubbles still left in the system out. The truck should have sucked up a good amount of fluid so recheck the level, add more fluid as needed, and put the cap on.
Step 12: Check for leaks and take her for a spin!
I hope this writeup helps some people in need of info when they swap out their leaky/fried Power Steering Pump some day!
Items Needed:
-One thing that is a MUST HAVE on this job is a pulley puller/press. You can pick one up at your local auto parts store, some even rent them so that you can return it when done and get 100% of your money back.
-An average collection of sockets and wrenches
-Other than that you're going to need either a 1-7/16ths" open ended wrench OR a gigantic crescent wrench.
-Some power steering fluid to fill your new pump with.
-ANDDD a new PS Pump (duhh
)Step 1: Remove the upper fan shroud. There are 7 10mm screws that hold it on. Also you're going to need to undo any other clips that may be supporting things attached to your shroud (I had 2, one for an electrical wire and the other was a breather tube)
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 2: Remove the clutch fan.
You must be registered for see images attach
I fabricated a tool suggested by Ginger (I used steel instead of aluminum) to hold the hexheads (1-7/8ths" on center between the two holes) on the backside of the fan and a GIANT crescent wrench to loosen the 1-7/16ths" nut (it's standard thread). Place the fabricated tool (it makes life SO much easier...TRUST ME!) onto two of the hexheads behind the clutch fan on the bottom (so that your wrench has clearance on top to grab) and place the wrench onto the nut behind the fan. Have someone hold the fabricated tool very tightly and have another person whack (we used a 5 lb sledge hammer) the wrench towards the passengers side of the vehicle to loosen the fan nut. Once the nut breaks its initial seal you can just spin the fan (while supporting the front of it at all times!) right off with no problem. Be careful as you remove the fan not to drop it and punch a hole through your radiator!
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 3: Remove the lower fan shroud by unscrewing the 2 remaining 10mm screws and take it out the engine bay to get a better view of everything from below.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt. Some people say that you don't need to do this step but I'm not quite sure why, it definitely made the job easier
. Loosen the tensioner pulley hex nut (the one below the alternator) and push the tensioner pulley towards the crankshaft with one hand and slip the belt off the closest/easiest pulley with the other.
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 5: Remove the 2 pressure hoses from the PS pump, one is clamped (hose clamp) onto the metal tube coming out of the back of the pump(return line), the other is a threaded line that has a 5/8ths hex nut(sending line), make sure that you have a drain pan under the pump at this point because there will be fluid in those lines!
Step 6: Pull the pulley. I pulled mine with it mounted in the truck so that I didn't have to put the pump in the vice to be held. For this step your going to need to follow the directions that come with the puller that you bought/rented from your local auto parts store. Just for a visual this is what it should look like vvv
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 7: Remove the 3 mounting bolts from the front and the 2 mounting nuts on the back. The three on the front are easily visible/accessible and are in the 2 o'clock 10 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions (you don't technically have to remove the one in the 4 o'clock position but I did to free up room for extraction of the pump). The two hex nuts on the back are where the mounting bracket meets the 2 studs that are sticking out from the block area (one up high and one below). Be careful as you loosen the last nut because the weight of the pump is about 20lbs and needs to be supported and rested on the steering linkage for step 8. Sadly I didn't get a picture of the bolts
Step 8: Once you've carefully placed/wedged the pump onto the steering linkage so that it's not going to fall, remove the electronic plug that is coming out of the plug on the backside of the pump. There is a red clip that needs to be lifted away from the plug in order to get the plug out, I used a small flathead screwdriver to lift that clip and then wiggled and pulled the plug out.
Step 9: Guide that pesky pump off your steering linkage and up out of your engine bay (I then dumped whatever fluid remained in there into my drain pan). Now you need to strip everything (hardware etc.) off of the old pump in order to use it on the new one. There are some simple studs on there that come right off, but there is also a large elbow that is mounted with a big hex-style nut that holds the plug socket and outgoing fluid passage for the pump. This needs to be removed with a large wrench (not sure which size) that I didn't have, sooo I resorted to the vice grip method
This is what the pump looks like after reassembling all hardware back onto it
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
(my farm in the background
)NOTICE: If you have the same style of power steering that I have you're going to have to remove a 1" hex nut off of the new pump reservoir in order to reconnect that big elbow that is for the outgoing fluid! Don't get discouraged when you get home and the pump looks a little different like I did! hahaha
Step 10: Reverse all the steps just mentioned and put it all back together!
Step 11: Chock the back wheels and jack the front of the truck up until your wheels just leave the ground, then fill the reservoir up to the "Cold Full" line (but leave the cap off). Next start your truck and turn the wheel crank to crank 12 times in order to work fluid through the system and to get any air bubbles still left in the system out. The truck should have sucked up a good amount of fluid so recheck the level, add more fluid as needed, and put the cap on.
Step 12: Check for leaks and take her for a spin!
I hope this writeup helps some people in need of info when they swap out their leaky/fried Power Steering Pump some day!
