Paintless Dent Remover

[Caman96]

I’ve got a few pings, definitely not dents. Just wondering if anyone has ever tried one of these kits. Pretty cheap, considering.

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[Orpedcrow]

I’ve been eyeing some of those kits on the bezos shopping network. Definitely looks like a lot more “fun” than actual body work lol

 

[Caman96]

Another thing, will 27 year old paint flex back without cracking?

 

[kennythewelder]

Another thing, will 27 year old paint flex back without cracking?

Yes, but you have to go VERY slow when pushing the back side of the dent. It takes a lot of practice to learn how to do PDR. A good striped board is a big help. There are a ton of videos on YouTube that show you how to. I have done this a good bit on my truck. It is the last 10 percent of the dent, that is the hardest to remove.

 

[Supercharged111]

Another thing, will 27 year old paint flex back without cracking?

Maybe, maybe not. You may also take some clear with, just the chance you take. But the cheap kits aren't great. The glues are color coded.

 

[Caman96]

Yes, but you have to go VERY slow when pushing the back side of the dent. It takes a lot of practice to learn how to do PDR. A good striped board is a big help. There are a ton of videos on YouTube that show you how to. I have done this a good bit on my truck. It is the last 10 percent of the dent, that is the hardest to remove.

Kenny do you use the glue type pullers?

 

[kennythewelder]

Kenny do you use the glue type pullers?

I have. I do have a set. I also used a bunch of different things to push out the dents from the back side. I like to use wood, if I can get it in, behind the dent, and work at pushing it out. Look at some of the PDR kits. They have rods, with handles on them, to reach in, and push out the dent, from behind. The last dent I removed, I backed into a power wire pole, guide wire, at a car show, in the parking lot. I though it just scratched the paint, down to bare metal. Well, I was wrong. It dented the metal, just under the driver's side tail light. about, a 4 inch long. I removed the tail light, ( that wasn't broken at all) and reached in, with a small, hard wood board, and pushed it out from the back side. It took several hours of working the dent, to remove it, to about 97 percent gone. Once I got it out, I sanded it, primed it, sanded that, and painted it. It is still there, but you can only see it, if I buff and polish that area out, to a high gloss shine, and even then, it is hard to find. It's always the last little bit of any dent, that is hard to remove. Don't believe everything you see on the net. Yes, the glue on and pull, tabs do take out a lot of the dent, but not all of it. Also you can over pull the dent. It takes practice to learn how hard to pull, and how to tap out the dent, with the plastic tap rod, that most kits have in them. My kit, is a ding king dent removal kit.

 

[Caman96]

I have. I do have a set. I also used a bunch of different things to push out the dents from the back side. I like to use wood, if I can get it in, behind the dent, and work at pushing it out. Look at some of the PDR kits. They have rods, with handles on them, to reach in, and push out the dent, from behind. The last dent I removed, I backed into a power wire pole, guide wire, at a car show, in the parking lot. I though it just scratched the paint, down to bare metal. Well, I was wrong. It dented the metal, just under the driver's side tail light. about, a 4 inch long. I removed the tail light, ( that wasn't broken at all) and reached in, with a small, hard wood board, and pushed it out from the back side. It took several hours of working the dent, to remove it, to about 97 percent gone. Once I got it out, I sanded it, primed it, sanded that, and painted it. It is still there, but you can only see it, if I buff and polish that area out, to a high gloss shine, and even then, it is hard to find. It's always the last little bit of any dent, that is hard to remove. Don't believe everything you see on the net. Yes, the glue on and pull, tabs do take out a lot of the dent, but not all of it. Also you can over pull the dent. It takes practice to learn how hard to pull, and how to tap out the dent, with the plastic tap rod, that most kits have in them. My kit, is a ding king dent removal kit.

Oh yeah, I hear you on the videos making it look easy. Was just reading up on even pros doing PDR and admitting a crack in the paint is always possible. Plus, even for small dings prices, on internet anyway, are $125-180 for one, seems like if you have more dings, prices will drop. Thanks

 

[kennythewelder]

Oh yeah, I hear you on the videos making it look easy. Was just reading up on even pros doing PDR and admitting a crack in the paint is always possible. Plus, even for small dings prices, on internet anyway, are $125-180 for one, seems like if you have more dings, prices will drop. Thanks

Yes, a crack is always posable, but I have been fooling with PDR, for a good while, but only in my own vehicles, so I am no expert, but, I have never had an issue cracking the paint, with the exception of pushing out a dent from the back side, with a steel rod, or a steel bar. Push to hard, and the hard sharp corners of the steel, pushing on the sheet metal, leaves a pointed, out pointed ding. That will crack the paint. This is the kit I have, and yes it works, somewhat anyway.

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[GrimsterGMC]

Yes, a crack is always posable, but I have been fooling with PDR, for a good while, but only in my own vehicles, so I am no expert, but, I have never had an issue cracking the paint, with the exception of pushing out a dent from the back side, with a steel rod, or a steel bar. Push to hard, and the hard sharp corners of the steel, pushing on the sheet metal, leaves a pointed, out pointed ding. That will crack the paint. This is the kit I have, and yes it works, somewhat anyway.

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Just a suggestion, but would warming the paint with a hairdryer first in the area being repaired help with avoiding a crack?