Not sure where to post this (G80, Vortec, and bench seat)

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unruhjonny

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Hello;

I am more of a lurker than a poster.

I have had our truck for about five years now, and generally I am happy with it (I'd love to paint it, but that's simply not in the cards right now).

I have a couple questions that I haven't seen answered;

1) The posi in our truck's differentials;
I have understood that they are temperature regulated, so if the diffy is too cold, I essentially have an open differential.

I'm going to be brutally honest - I think this setup SUCKS.
I know that everything is working right regarding the trucks front and rear differentials, but with our daily drivers being Cobalt SS's sometimes the driving conditions are such that I'd rather not drive a Cobalt if I don't have to (to avoid the possibility of damage to the factory ground effects - they don't take to well to snow and ice piles)...

It seems beyond ridiculous for our truck to be getting stuck in front of our house, on level ground, because only one rear tire, and one front tire are turning.
I have considered LMC's front axle actuator eliminator;
Has anyone installed it this kit?
I have understood that it essentially reverts the front differential to acting like it's always locked

Maybe someone has another opinion to share as a different option?

I'd love to know any options I might have for the rear differential too... years ago my daily driver was a 1970 Firebird which had a 12 bolt posi - I loved that differential, I never got stuck in that car.

2) Vortec head swap c/w GMPP TBI intake;
I see lots of threads about vortec head swaps, they are often accompanied with a carburetor swap, or an aftermarket efi;
I would like to keep my computer in place, and retain full functionality of stuff like cruise control.

I assumed that a tiny upgrade with the cam would be done at the same time.

Have many people done the vortec swap and retained the origina TBI?

I don't plan on a voretc head swap till an engine rebuild is warranted.
Does anyone care to share thoughts or opinions?

3) The auto recline (split)bench seat our truck has.

The seat slamming forward every time I hit the brakes just became too much for me - I hate it.

I would rather a lever to unlock the seat;
I have modified the hinge so that it is essentially locked closed.

Is there some way to fix or improve the latch?

Thanks for reading this, and thank in advance to anyone willing to chime in.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Hello;

I am more of a lurker than a poster.

I have had our truck for about five years now, and generally I am happy with it (I'd love to paint it, but that's simply not in the cards right now).

I have a couple questions that I haven't seen answered;

1) The posi in our truck's differentials;
I have understood that they are temperature regulated, so if the diffy is too cold, I essentially have an open differential.

I'm going to be brutally honest - I think this setup SUCKS.
I know that everything is working right regarding the trucks front and rear differentials, but with our daily drivers being Cobalt SS's sometimes the driving conditions are such that I'd rather not drive a Cobalt if I don't have to (to avoid the possibility of damage to the factory ground effects - they don't take to well to snow and ice piles)...

It seems beyond ridiculous for our truck to be getting stuck in front of our house, on level ground, because only one rear tire, and one front tire are turning.
I have considered LMC's front axle actuator eliminator;
Has anyone installed it this kit?
I have understood that it essentially reverts the front differential to acting like it's always locked

Maybe someone has another opinion to share as a different option?

I'd love to know any options I might have for the rear differential too... years ago my daily driver was a 1970 Firebird which had a 12 bolt posi - I loved that differential, I never got stuck in that car.

2) Vortec head swap c/w GMPP TBI intake;
I see lots of threads about vortec head swaps, they are often accompanied with a carburetor swap, or an aftermarket efi;
I would like to keep my computer in place, and retain full functionality of stuff like cruise control.

I assumed that a tiny upgrade with the cam would be done at the same time.

Have many people done the vortec swap and retained the origina TBI?

I don't plan on a voretc head swap till an engine rebuild is warranted.
Does anyone care to share thoughts or opinions?

3) The auto recline (split)bench seat our truck has.

The seat slamming forward every time I hit the brakes just became too much for me - I hate it.

I would rather a lever to unlock the seat;
I have modified the hinge so that it is essentially locked closed.

Is there some way to fix or improve the latch?

Thanks for reading this, and thank in advance to anyone willing to chime in.
What year truck? The split bench in our '97 crew cab, and the solid bench seat in the back, have the adjustable angle backrest. It's activated by a lever on the outer edge of the seat base. If it's working properly, it should not do what you describe. Maybe something is hitting the lever when you apply the brakes?
Biggest issue I have with our seats is hitting the lever with my knee while turned around in the seat,to get something out of the back seat or floorboard. Then the back will move, the direction depends on how it's being pushed. I presume the 94-back seats are set up the same way, but have no personal experience with the early trucks.
 

termite

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1) The posi in our truck's differentials;
I have understood that they are temperature regulated, so if the diffy is too cold, I essentially have an open differential.
Based on thread title, I take it you have the G80 code on your SPID sticker in the glove box. My limited understanding is that the G80 is a locker, and not a posi-track unit, that engages via the weights slinging out when wheel slip is adequate. I would not think temperature would be a regulating factor in normal conditions.

Every one of these trucks I've driven eith the G80 spins one wheel unless I push it hard enough to make it engage the locker. Usually fairly rough when it engages.

No input on the other points you raised.
 

termite

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LMC's front axle actuator eliminator;
This kit would eliminate the thermal actuator not and either keep the diff engaged constantly or provide a cable to operate, haven't looked at the kit. Making it full time would increase wear on the front driveshaft universals for what it's worth. Possibly increased wear elsewhere in the driveline.
 

Erik the Awful

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Have many people done the vortec swap and retained the origina TBI?
When I originally swapped my engine in my TBI truck I put in an engine with Vortec heads. I bought a squarebore Summit intake manifold with the Vortec bolt pattern, put a squarebore to spreadbore adapter on it, and then put a TBI adapter on top of the spreadbore flange.

If you have an '88-92 you will have to modify your TV cable bracket and you ABSOLUTELY MUST correctly set your TV cable, which will likely require removing the pan so you can see the plunger. Then you'll want to check your line pressure before you actually start driving it. I burned up a transmission before I figured this out.

My cam was too big for the TBI, and I'm running a Holley Sniper now, which requires a whole 'nuther round of parts buying and adjusting.
 

someotherguy

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Sounds like some of your gripes aren't necessarily with the way the features were designed, but with failures of those features due to wear/age.

The G80 unit - if your truck is equipped - is a locking rear differential that engages once 100 or 200 rpm difference between wheels is noticed (can't recall if it's 100 or 200, some searching should turn it up) - the locker is made by Eaton and it's called the Gov-Loc. They're not the strongest units in the 10 bolt form and it's possible it has failed. It's also possible that if the wrong gear oil was used, or someone put "posi" additive in there, that it's not functioning properly.

The front axle does not have a locker. The actuator kits out there are for eliminating the factory thermal unit which engages the differential. The "thermal actuator" is probably where some confusion is coming in about how temperature affects the differential. It's just the design of the actuator that engages the front differential. Some thermal actuator replacement kits are cable-operated, others are electric (like later model trucks.) Either way you go it's still an open front differential, not a locker. There's probably locker kits out there but if you've ever driven a 4WD with a locking front end you'll find it's very difficult to steer. Only one I ever ran was a Unimog that had a lever you could pull for several locking options on the fly - normal open, locked rear, then also locked front. Very useful off-road in SOME situations, but again makes steering tough.

Sounds like your seat latch is broken. Further investigation needed.. they don't just flop on their own, normally.

Richard
 
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