What do you mean "has great base pressure at 70/130 psi...but it will not rise no matter what I do"? Is that pressure at idle and under high throttle flip? Are you saying the pressure does not increase with increase in RPM when you are driving it?
Since you mentioned disconnecting the harness doesn't make the default maximum line pressure, I would think there's a hydraulic leak somewhere in the hydraulic circuits...but it's perplexing that it had good pressure in the beginning... If there is not enough fluid pressure to engage a clutchpack, it will burn up for sure. Probably should stop driving it.
There's a specification for checking pump body flatness with a feeler guage. The pump body didn't have any steps? Did the slide pin have any wear?Did you check the front drivetrain with compressed air before reassembly? I believe there are several feed holes on the input shaft you can check to see if you have leakage. What do think caused the initial failure? Maybe lack of lubrication? Maybe the initial issue was not resolved? I'm just thinking out loud here.
About your EPC: you should check for voltage/amps. The ATSG has information on page 9.
Sorry, I'm not too familiar with the 4L60e.
What do you mean "has great base pressure at 70/130 psi...but it will not rise no matter what I do"? Is that pressure at idle and under high throttle flip? Are you saying the pressure does not increase with increase in RPM when you are driving it?
Since you mentioned disconnecting the harness doesn't make the default maximum line pressure, I would think there's a hydraulic leak somewhere in the hydraulic circuits...but it's perplexing that it had good pressure in the beginning... If there is not enough fluid pressure to engage a clutchpack, it will burn up for sure. Probably should stop driving it.
There's a specification for checking pump body flatness with a feeler guage. The pump body didn't have any steps? Did the slide pin have any wear?Did you check the front drivetrain with compressed air before reassembly? I believe there are several feed holes on the input shaft you can check to see if you have leakage. What do think caused the initial failure? Maybe lack of lubrication? Maybe the initial issue was not resolved? I'm just thinking out loud here.
About your EPC: you should check for voltage/amps. The ATSG has information on page 9.
Sorry, I'm not too familiar with the 4L60e.
Thanks for getting back to me. When idling, pnd321 all read 70psi/ reverse goes to 130psi.. change in rpm- driving- changing EPC amps. doesn’t increase pressure at all, but maybe 2-3psi.. i used the scanner to change the amps on EPC from 1.05 to 0.1 and still nothing.. test driving/ reving i can see the EPC working as it should. All solenoids are working as they should. The pump is the original , just rebuilt with new vanes-slides-springs-and so forth.. i don’t kno why the trans destroyed the bearing originally , i assumed it was just it’s time to fail. It Was original trans with 200k miles on it.. Before i rebuilt it i only had 1st 2nd and reverse since the planetary gears where destroyed and And wouldn’t budge.. but the pressure would increase, it was just on the lower side of the (in spec) range .. i did forget to mention it is the original valve body .. It was just taken apart and cleaned ,with just a couple new parts and the transgo correction kit … i DON’T have a vacuum tester for the valve body …. I guess now I’m trying to understand the pressure part of the trans. From what I understand, it suck’s fluid up in the filter / spins it through the vanes out the PR/ boost valve and from there it’s a direct link to the pressure test port? Considering they share the same fluid port ( i think)… IF that’s correct then it should be directly related to the pump not the valve body?? And the fact that it didn’t default to max pressure unplugged Makes me lean towards a pump problem?… and the input drum was air checked prior with no signs of leakage and teflon rings where resize correctly.. I’m not a pro by any means so plz correct me if any of that is wrong.. Im assuming I’ll have to replace the clutches since i kno some of the material has had to burnt off , which is fine, im just trying to find out if it’s valve body or pump problem. Or even buying a new input drum if need be.. but i just didn’t want to throw parts at it.. since it’s getting line pressure, doesn’t that mean the pump is working? And since unplugging the harness didn’t help and evening else is working that means the ECM is not fried?.. srry for long post. Having to reply when i get free time at work so trying to get it all out