4l60e no 1st or 4th, ez tcu

[tuffy331]

well you said you rebuilt it, you took the pump apart right?

Bought a rebuilt one off ebay.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Do you think a pump could cause no 1st or 4th? Im pretty confident I didn't knock the filter loose and am ready to pull the trans at this point. I will probably still swap the valve body and maybe rebuild the pump in the old unit. Transmission only has about 50 miles, you think I could get away with reusing the torque converter? I will try to do a line pressure test to be 100% sure but I have to wait to get one. Not sure if I can wait that long...

First question: No (Tayto's explanation is sufficient as to why not).

Have you considered the possibility the control unit itself is defective?

Also, ALWAYS pull reman pumps apart. Cant tell you how many "remanned" pumps Ive had over the years that were not actually remanufactured at all. Used soft parts, scored surfaces, used vanes...sometimes companies are careless and ship you returned cores by mistake. Other times, its done on purpose. Plus, those pumps have the same worn out boost valves. Always install a Sonnax 4L60E LB1
or Transgo equivalent for all 4L60Es. I get all my pumps reconditioned locally now but long time ago, purchased remanned pumps.

Nothing inside the case would give you a "No 1st and No 4th condition". That's a command and control problem, either electrical, valve body, accumulator, maybe check balls left out or misplaced.

If you do end up pulling the unit back out, see my 4L60E info thread for rebuild strategies, parts selection etc.

Lastly, buy a trans pressure gauge off Amazon, they'll send it in one to two days. You can wait that long....

 

[Overdrive915]

I rebuilt my first 4l60e and installed in a 1994 gmc k1500. It has a 2500 stall converter and using a ez tcu to control it. I have no 1st or 4th. Starts out in second and shifts to third like normal in d or od. Torque converter locks up too. Just no 1st or 4th. I've replaced both shift solenoids. Ez tcu will say it's in low1 when I move the shift lever to 1, but still starts in second. Ez tcu says it in 1st and will normally shift to second then 3rd on the screen, but never was 1st at all, same thing with 4th. Reverse works fine too. I'm interested to see if anyone has experienced this. One thing I'd like to note is I used a good amount of the green goo on the checkballs when installing the valve body. Not sure if there's a specific checkball that's controls both 1st and 4th... maybe to much there? Also has transgo hd2 I'm gonna clean up the valve body from old the old 4l60e and swap everything over with a new transgo kit and hope it works. Maybe it's the ez tcu, or something very simple, I don't want to swap the valve body as I paid for a supposedly working valve body online.
Thanks

Are you sure after the rebuild that you plugged in the solenoids. Otherwise the problem is one of the shift solenoids. It would be best to replace both 1st and 4th A solenoid or only 2nd and 3rd B solenoid.

 

[movietvet]

Big difference between remanufactured parts and rebuilt parts.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Are you sure after the rebuild that you plugged in the solenoids. Otherwise the problem is one of the shift solenoids. It would be best to replace both 1st and 4th A solenoid or only 2nd and 3rd B solenoid.

I know it's a long thread at this point but he mentioned replacing the Solenoids A & B in the first post (whether they were OEM or not is another question). That said, my first thought was Sol A is bad or there's a breakdown in comms between his controller and Sol A.

@tuffy331 - were your replacement Solenoids and wiring harness OEM AC delco or Rostra?

 

[tuffy331]

I know it's a long thread at this point but he mentioned replacing the Solenoids A & B in the first post (whether they were OEM or not is another question). That said, my first thought was Sol A is bad or there's a breakdown in comms between his controller and Sol A.

@tuffy331 - were your replacement Solenoids and wiring harness OEM AC delco or Rostra?

I replaced the harness with rostra, and the 2 solenoids I replaced where durlast- ik not the best brand but I didn't have money for ac delco

 

[movietvet]

I replaced the harness with rostra, and the 2 solenoids I replaced where durlast- ik not the best brand but I didn't have money for ac delco

How much money are you saving now?

 

[NickTransmissions]

I replaced the harness with rostra, and the 2 solenoids I replaced where durlast- ik not the best brand but I didn't have money for ac delco

That may be your problem, dude. The aftermarket crap is the cheapest yet most expensive in the long run.

Put some AC Delco shift solenoids on. You can prob get them good used for damn near free at the junk yard. Just bring a DVOM with you to ohm them before buying. 19-24 ohms is what you should see for each.

 

[tuffy331]

That may be your problem, dude. The aftermarket crap is the cheapest yet most expensive in the long run.

Put some AC Delco shift solenoids on. You can prob get them good used for damn near free at the junk yard. Just bring a DVOM with you to ohm them before buying. 19-24 ohms is what you should see for each.

Will do, I will test transmission pressure when I get paid and then test electrical. If all checks out then I'll try solenoids... might just swap valvebodies with all new Solenoids if I go that route

 

[NickTransmissions]

Will do, I will test transmission pressure when I get paid and then test electrical. If all checks out then I'll try solenoids... might just swap valvebodies with all new Solenoids if I go that route

That may be the fastest approach to just getting it back on the road and shifting correctly...Don't forget to yank off the 1-2 accumulator housing and check the piston, just to be thorough while you have the pan off...A good used 1996-2006 VB shouldn't cost more than $50-$60 with solenoids, etc installed, either at the junk yard or hard part supplier