New to me 99 K1500

[PlayingWithTBI]

Just an FYI - a fuel pump will die an early death, dead heading against a plugged filter. As suggested above, check your fuel pressure 1st.

 

[baxterday]

While waiting for the tow truck, I ran the my scanner and there were no codes. Not sure on the CPI to MPFI. Was going to do that, but would really like to get it running first. I was baffled when no codes showed up and the CEL never came on either. The fuel pump was replaced about 3 months ago just before I got the truck, and it has a brand new fuel tank.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The fuel pump was replaced about 3 months ago just before I got the truck, and it has a brand new fuel tank.

But, you've been pretty much dead heading it with your plugged filter - just saying

 

[baxterday]

Here is a picture of the inside of the distributor cap and rotor as well as the weird screws used to put it on. There is a ring of liquid around the inside of the cap. Corrosion on the rotor.

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[HotWheelsBurban]

Yup Vortecs don't like that sort of thing! That's why I have a Blue Streak rotor and UMP vented cap on my Burb and I have the UMP cap/rotor set to put on the crew cab. Those and a fresh set of plugs should help a lot.
I live in Houston, Texas and this area is bad about humidity most of the time. The vent in the cap and the brass contacts make a big difference in how well it runs, I was quite surprised on my Burb.
We went out to the yards on New Year's Day and it was very foggy, crew cab didn't hardly want to run. Very lopey...once the sun came out and dried everything out, the truck ran lots better.
I would have installed the parts before now, but they're in the shop building and I haven't been able to get out there in a couple weeks. It's always raining when I'm off....

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Here is a picture of the inside of the distributor cap and rotor as well as the weird screws used to put it on. There is a ring of liquid around the inside of the cap. Corrosion on the rotor.

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Those are the normal type screws for the rotor ( T20 torx?) The big thing I don't like about them, is they're not staked into the rotor, so you have to be VERY careful and not lose one in the engine or down the distributor....
I have a screwdriver that size, just long enough to fit in the back of the engine compartment, that I keep in the Burb with the battery tools. Used to have to change the rotor every six months...till I got the Blue Streak rotor. They last two years, and that's driving every day in Houston traffic!

 

[baxterday]

Well I am happy to report that it was the cap and rotor. I replaced them this morning and it cranked right up. The cap had a bracket that you had to put under the distributor, then run the cap screws into this bracket. That is why they were longer on one side. That was a pain in the rear to do while the distributor was still in the motor. Thank you to everyone for your help.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Those are the normal type screws for the rotor ( T20 torx?) The big thing I don't like about them, is they're not staked into the rotor, so you have to be VERY careful and not lose one in the engine or down the distributor....
I have a screwdriver that size, just long enough to fit in the back of the engine compartment, that I keep in the Burb with the battery tools. Used to have to change the rotor every six months...till I got the Blue Streak rotor. They last two years, and that's driving every day in Houston traffic!

Correction: they're T-15 not T-20....had to go hunting for my 15 screwdriver but I found it....

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Well I am happy to report that it was the cap and rotor. I replaced them this morning and it cranked right up. The cap had a bracket that you had to put under the distributor, then run the cap screws into this bracket. That is why they were longer on one side. That was a pain in the rear to do while the distributor was still in the motor. Thank you to everyone for your help.

Maybe someone stripped the hole in the distributor housing so they put the extra bracket on?