Need some advice on a 1995 K1500 potential purchase

[98chevy2500SS]

x2^^^

 

[bamabound]

Like others said, usually northerners come south to buy vehicles, not the other way around. That said, for a Chicago plow truck, I'd say it doesnt look too bad. That doesnt mean I would buy it though. Being in the south, I would think you could pretty easily find a much better truck to start with. Here in Montgomery, AL pull a part there is a RCSB Z71 3.73 gears rust free. They come in a coupla times a year, but the ext cabs 2 & 4wd are there all year long. More pics will equal more feedback, but it sounds like you already have enough. Good luck.

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

Unless this thing is cheap as in less than $500 you’re better off going and buying a truck out of state. Plenty of clean no rust never used for plowing k1500s in So Cal, Arizona New Mexico, Texas,

personally I would stay away from a rusty truck that’s been used for plowing. I understand the area you live in makes a difference but there are too many clean trucks out there to just buy one that will need a lot of work. Plow trucks are in some cases used avd abused.

just from what I see the oil pan is rotting, the frame has good rust, the exhaust is paper thin you can see the rust flaking off. You’re gonna battle rust forever. Too many thinks against it imo. I understand you always wanted one but I’ll wait and look fir a model that has more options and no rust.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Unless this thing is cheap as in less than $500 you’re better off going and buying a truck out of state. Plenty of clean no rust never used for plowing k1500s in So Cal, Arizona New Mexico, Texas,

personally I would stay away from a rusty truck that’s been used for plowing. I understand the area you live in makes a difference but there are too many clean trucks out there to just buy one that will need a lot of work. Plow trucks are in some cases used avd abused.

just from what I see the oil pan is rotting, the frame has good rust, the exhaust is paper thin you can see the rust flaking off. You’re gonna battle rust forever. Too many thinks against it imo. I understand you always wanted one but I’ll wait and look fir a model that has more options and no rust.

That's the thing, the op lives in Texas! I'm in southern Illinois, and we don't go north to buy trucks!!

 

[GeorgiaMtnClimber]

I've seen and dealt with worse, but never at that price point. I thought I got a good deal one time buying someone else's rusty 78' CJ-5 for $1k a few years back, but after the time and money spent on rust repair I easily could've bought a decent one in good shape. $6k is bonkers and would go a long way towards engine, tranny, suspension etc on a mechanically worn out but straight, low rust body and frame. Also, not sure where you found the listing, but at least in my experience when someone posts at an unreasonable price like the $7500-10k+ trucks you mentioned they are usually factoring in for haggling- don't be afraid to low ball if mileage + condition don't quite equal the price tag. You might end up pleasantly surprised.

 

[mars2878]

here's my 2cents worth.


never, ever, ever, ever buy a plow truck. don't ever listen to the person selling a plow truck. they are used & worked hard. 46k mi, but many hrs was it left idling? that can extra wear & tear even w/ low miles. plow trucks typically have some kind of frame damage from plowing, why, because when one is plowing they cannot see every little lip that the blade is going to catch & make the plow assembly jump & twist, let alone any curbs or holes that they catch w/ the plow. Plowing also creates heavy stress on the tranny, which prematurely shortens its life span.

never buy a mid-year refresh/change over model. they typically have a bunch of 1yr only items.
1995 has a 1yr only tranny, hvac controller, ashtray assembly, ecu, & I forget what else.

I find that alot of people don't know the diff between rust & rot. knowing the diff can save you alot of time & money. the seller will always say rust if they can get away w/ it. it is your job to figure out if they are lying, if your willing to continue & use the knowledge to your benefit.
rust = sand & paint
rot = panel needs replacement or metal patched in.
scale = flaking metal = not long for life if the rear frame rails are flaking, don't tow, not safe.

we from the north try to buy from the south, so that should tell you not to buy from the north unless it's mint.

While low mileage is nice & people command more money for it, excessively low mileage is not a good thing. Excessively low mileage means that it sat alot. If the tires have not been replaced in the last 6months, then have flat spots. So you will need 4 tires, $600+ right off of the bat. Batteries typically last 5-6yrs w/ proper use. There's another potential $100. Chances are the belt/s are cracked. Chances are that every system needs to be flushed. When you start driving it on a reg basis, you will start to notice leaks forming. Gaskets will start giving up the ghost because they are not used to the use.

If you don't have a means to patch in metal, then you will be paying a shop & that can add up fast.

there are guys around here desperate to sell former plow trucks, that they strip all of the plow stuff out & get a knee panel from the j/y to hide the switch mounting holes. It's the only way to sell them to unsuspecting rubes. Some forget to also swap the air dam as it has been notched for the plow frame. I always look @ the frame shoehorns for signs that a plow used to be mounted.


As to the question about what to generally look for. I hear that you check the frame area where the steering box mounts. some people have found cracks. the cracks are from long term use w/ bad steering components.

 

[noabarron3]

Hey all,

I have wanted a K1500 for as long as I can remember. Been saving for years and finally am to the point where getting one is realistic. I have come across a 95 K1500 regular cab. It's a base truck, crank windows, manual door locks, etc.

The good :
* It's in my budget range
* It has 46k miles on it (verified)
* Everything works on it according to owner
* It's in really solid shape in most areas

The bad :
* It was a Chicago snow plow truck that was owned by a small company that only cleared driveways. That is why the mileage is low and it is the original owner. It has rust, I know that is not shocking but I got two pics the owner sent me and I wanted some advice on if its worth the while (I will most likely own this truck forever) to buy it and invest money into cleaning it up. I intend to use it as a driver and would do minor cosmetic but a pretty detailed mechanical to get it up to ***** for daily driving and working on property. I am going to get a drive and look at it in the next few days I suspect and if there are things to look for specifically (shock mounts, spring mounts, other high stress areas etc) please share anything I should look for and how to best determine depth of damage in the context of a Dallas, Texas Driveway inspection.

I will attach the two pics and would really appreciate any feedback you can offer.

Thanks in advance...

Doug

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I totally understand the excitement of finding exactly what you’re looking for. My 94 blazer was everything I wanted aside from a five speed, it has quite a bit of rust but it’s extremely solid. You have to be wary of rust vs rot. Surface rust can be sanded, reformed, and coated. Rot is not the same, even on my extremely solid undercarriage, the Leaf spring brackets are concerning. Point is that you may be a little bit blinded by the sheer excitement of having found exactly yeah you’re looking for. Take the time to understand what you’re getting into, you may wish that you waited for a cleaner truck. I wouldn’t fault you for buying a truck without seeing it, I did the same and it worked out great but tread lightly!

 

[Frank Enstein]

Please do not buy this truck. Take your time and money and get a truck that is rust free. It took some time but I found my dream truck with no rust (In Ohio!) and bought it right then and there. Mechanically it is a disaster area and crackhead monkeys with hammers worked on it but that can all be repaired. You can fix EVERYTHING to perfect condition but on a rusty truck it will be a waste of time and money.

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

That's the thing, the op lives in Texas! I'm in southern Illinois, and we don't go north to buy trucks!!

OP should easily find a rust free truck in Texas. I looked at a truck for a guy who was in Arizona. The truck was near my house and we talk on a different forum. He contacted and asked me if I was willing to go look at this truck for him it was located once city over maybe 15 minute drive. I contacted the seller after he talked to them. I looked at the truck. Told him what I found.

 

[thinger2]

Nope. If it was a 3500 big block with a 4l80e I might maybe give him a 1000 just for parts.
A small block 4l60e rotted plow truck.
No way
6k? Dude is smoking crazy ****.
Set aside 1k for gas cheetos beef jerkey and motel rooms
Take the other 5k and get a buddy to drive you as far as you need to go to get a better truck.
They are out there.
You just gotta go the extra distance to get them