NBS Front Brake Swap for OBS Trucks

[pgutier1]

I found a '96 suburban in a local PNP with the brake upgrade from a NBS and a lower control arm and shock installed as well, see pics:

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I have a couple questions, please help...thank you.

1 - This knuckle had only the top ball joint reemed/modified. The upper ball joint doesn't seat completely, is this a concern?

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2 - I have another knuckle from a different NBS and I have test fitted a new lower ball joint and tie rod and those holes don't need modifications only the upper ball joint, is this correct? All the new hardware will be going on my '92 suburban.

3 - Should I re-reem and modify even further this knuckle that is pictured above or should I start from scratch with my secondary unit?

4 - The NBS control arm installed on this '96 seems to have no play for suspension travel. Is it because the wrong swaybar link is installed, it seems not long enough? Is it the wrong shock length? The shock tower on the '96 was drilled to accept the shock from a NBS, should I take the shock as well as the control arm?

Thanks for your help and looking forward to this upgrade!

 

[Coveman]

1 - This knuckle had only the top ball joint reemed/modified. The upper ball joint doesn't seat completely, is this a concern?
Yes, the knuckle should be reamed deeper to seat the upper bj.
2 - I have another knuckle from a different NBS and I have test fitted a new lower ball joint and tie rod and those holes don't need modifications only the upper ball joint, is this correct? All the new hardware will be going on my '92 suburban.
Correct.
3 - Should I re-reem and modify even further this knuckle that is pictured above or should I start from scratch with my secondary unit?

I would start by re-reaming it and see if you can get it to seat properly.

4 - The NBS control arm installed on this '96 seems to have no play for suspension travel. Is it because the wrong swaybar link is installed, it seems not long enough? Is it the wrong shock length? The shock tower on the '96 was drilled to accept the shock from a NBS, should I take the shock as well as the control arm?

The swap doesnt call for nbs control arms, if it looks like it was problematic it probably was.

Thanks for your help and looking forward to this upgrade!

 

[pgutier1]

Another question please...Would a swap to HB be worth the effort? What are the pros and cons of converting to HB or should I stay with vacuum? If this swap is recommend, what years should I be getting parts from?

 

[Schurkey]

1 - This knuckle had only the top ball joint reemed/modified. The upper ball joint doesn't seat completely, is this a concern?

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The joint isn't supposed to touch the knuckle. There may/may not be a rubber seal on the BJ that touches the knuckle. The gap between ball joint body and knuckle doesn't worry me at all.

The tapered stud needs to fit the tapered hole EXACTLY. If it wobbles around in the hole, the tapers are not the same, and you WILL break the ball joint stud, leading to loss of control of the vehicle.

2 - I have another knuckle from a different NBS and I have test fitted a new lower ball joint and tie rod and those holes don't need modifications only the upper ball joint, is this correct? All the new hardware will be going on my '92 suburban.

3 - Should I re-reem and modify even further this knuckle that is pictured above or should I start from scratch with my secondary unit?

Does the upper ball joint from the newer vehicle bolt to the existing control arm? If so, change upper ball joints instead of "reaming" the knuckle.

4 - The NBS control arm installed on this '96 seems to have no play for suspension travel. Is it because the wrong swaybar link is installed, it seems not long enough? Is it the wrong shock length? The shock tower on the '96 was drilled to accept the shock from a NBS, should I take the shock as well as the control arm?

Whoever did that work clearly did not know what they were doing.

You'll have to experiment--disconnect the sway bar link, disconnect the shock, see what happens to ride-height and bump-stop clearance.

NORMALLY, I'd say that the sway bar link has no effect on ride-height; but given the angles involved, the bolt would be bending if the control arm were any lower.

Holy crap, that's terrible work by the original owner/modifier.

Another question please...Would a swap to HB be worth the effort? What are the pros and cons of converting to HB or should I stay with vacuum? If this swap is recommend, what years should I be getting parts from?

Can't help you with that.

 

[pgutier1]

"The tapered stud needs to fit the tapered hole EXACTLY. If it wobbles around in the hole, the tapers are not the same, and you WILL break the ball joint stud, leading to loss of control of the vehicle."

Yes I agree and have decided to scrap the second set of knuckles that were not done correctly for they do wobble and use the secondary set and ream them correctly.

"Does the upper ball joint from the newer vehicle bolt to the existing control arm? If so, change upper ball joints instead of "reaming" the knuckle."

The NBS ball joint is a press in and is smaller and will not work with with the OBS UCA and I cannot use the NBS UCA for it is too wide. So, I must ream the NBS knuckle to use the OBS BJ.

"Whoever did that work clearly did not know what they were doing.

You'll have to experiment--disconnect the sway bar link, disconnect the shock, see what happens to ride-height and bump-stop clearance.

NORMALLY, I'd say that the sway bar link has no effect on ride-height; but given the angles involved, the bolt would be bending if the control arm were any lower.

Holy crap, that's terrible work by the original owner/modifier."

I would also say, that this was a completely fubar setup...LOL! I've decided to use 3/4 ton forged LCA from a '99 Suburban instead.

"Can't help you with that."

Thank you for your help!

 

[Motorsports-X]

hey guys, back in march i bought a full knuckle/rotor/caliper assembly off of a 2003 2wd. I'm just now (finally) getting time to do this. ive basically forgotten the 29 pages of this thread I read.

Can you guys confirm that the only other parts I need are the 2000 4wd Hubs, the reamer, and the brake fitting?? (swapping a 96 OBS)

 

[pgutier1]

hey guys, back in march i bought a full knuckle/rotor/caliper assembly off of a 2003 2wd. I'm just now (finally) getting time to do this. ive basically forgotten the 29 pages of this thread I read.

Can you guys confirm that the only other parts I need are the 2000 4wd Hubs, the reamer, and the brake fitting?? (swapping a 96 OBS)

I'm new with this brake upgrade to OBS but from what I read...I think you will also need the axles, ABS sensors and the brake lines.

 

[pgutier1]

Has anyone adapted the brakes from a '02 2500 NBS to a 1500 OBS. I found one at a local PNP and the brakes are larger than a NBS 1500. Thankfully there is a '93 OBS next to it in the same row to test fit. I can use the 1500 NBS axle with the 2500 NBS knuckle. The UBJ from the OBS seems to fit well and I am using the upgraded forged LCA. The only issue i see is the outer tie rods...on the '02 2500 the outer tie rod is a lot larger than anything the OBS's use. Is there a solution for this? I spoke with a machinist and he said that he can possibly make an adapter to use the 2500 outer tie rod with the OE sleeve adapter on the OBS. Can anyone chime in on this...am I wasting time with this upgrade? I know the fronts will be 8 lug and the rear 6 lug until I can switch the rear to disks. Do you think the stopping power is worth the time and effort? Yes, I am also looking to do the HB upgrade as well.

 

[Schurkey]

Do you think the stopping power is worth the time and effort? Yes, I am also looking to do the HB upgrade as well.

What brakes do you have now? JB6?

No, I don't think it's worth the hassle of adapting the newer brake system if you already have JB6 brakes.

Be sure the Hydroboost master cylinder is compatible with your low-drag calipers, or you'll need different calipers when you switch to Hydroboost.

 

[pgutier1]

What brakes do you have now? JB6?

JB6? My suburban is a '92 K1500 4wd. After Googling, I would say yes...

No, I don't think it's worth the hassle of adapting the newer brake system if you already have JB6 brakes.

Be sure the Hydroboost master cylinder is compatible with your low-drag calipers, or you'll need different calipers when you switch to Hydroboost.

I am planning to upgrade to the NBS front brakes from a '00 1500 suburban, I have all the brake hardware, axles, knuckles, brake lines, ABS senors and hubs. Low drag, please explain?? I was planning to take the HB and MC from the '02 2500 suburban but was already removed from this suburban before I could get to it at PNP, so I have to find another candidate...I saw the difference between the 1500 and the 2500 NBS suburban brakes and I would like the 2500 brakes on my burb if possible.