My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

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PlayingWithTBI

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The 355, is just a 350, board out 30 over stock. That probably has something to do with it. The 355 has no material removed around the bottom end of the block.
FWIU, the block only has to be clearanced for the rod bolts hitting it, which really doesn't see any stress in that area, everything else should be good. Unless I'm mistaken, that's why I asked.

Oh, BTW, the builder says he can probably balance it internally instead externally in front, which the 400s were. He'll use my flex plate when balancing too.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I curious, why is a 355 more reliable than a 383?

Longer stroke means more side thrust in the bores, more angle at the bottom of the stroke, more piston travel ... those type things. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. If you were building a race engine, you might want to actually de-stroke depending on your use case.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Longer stroke means more side thrust in the bores, more angle at the bottom of the stroke, more piston travel ... those type things. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it
That's one of the reasons (aside from possible detonation) he quoted it with forged pistons. 400s ran forever with that stroke too :biggrin:
 

L31MaxExpress

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Many 383 rotating kits come with 6" rods. The stock 350 has a 1.63 rod/stroke ratio. The 383 with 6" rods has a 1.6 rod/stroke ratio. A factory 400 has a 1.48 rod/stroke ratio. A 5.7" rod with a 3.75" stroke is a 1.52 rod/stroke ratio. A stock 454 has a 6.135 rod with a 4" stroke for a 1.53 rod/stroke ratio.

A 383 is no less reliable than a 350 and in actuality likely more reliable because it will not have to spin as hard to get the same weight moving. More torque at lower rpm allowing the truck to accelerate more briskly with less rpm.
 

Knuckle Dragger

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What we did yesterday:

Got the engine ready for extraction, (my wife went to the dentist so I used the correlation here). This is before we pulled the starter, which made better access to the collector bolts. Then pulled the headers too.
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Pulled the plugs so they won't get damaged and to look at them. Other than some coloration from additives, no peppering even though the ECM was pulling some timing when under hard acceleration (before everything went south).
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I've been throwing parts in the back of the truck - lots of cleaning to do. I think I'm gonna roll the Tonneau cover up so I can separate and clean what needs it.
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Then we assembled the 1 Ton engine hoist together. I couldn't find any HF store on this side of the valley that had a 2 ton. It's gonna be close having enough reach, we may have to pull the grille to get enough. We plan on pulling the engine with the heads on, hopefully. We haven't pulled the radiator yet either.

Then I'll strip the block and figure out a way to get it to the builder. I may just rent a U-Haul flat bed trailer. That'd make it easier unloading there, he has a jib boom crane so, an enclosed vehicle will make it more difficult.

As Shakespeare used to say "To 383 or not to 383, that is the question" :rolleyes:
I would have happily loaned you my hoist. :(

383 vs 350, go big or go home :)
 

letitsnow

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I'm curious, why is a 355 more reliable than a 383?

Less piston speed.

Just to clarify - If I were buying, I would have already ordered a 383. I was giving advice based on what I think will be best for you.

Even though it is fun to play around with these trucks, without adding a lot of boost, they are just kinda slow anyways. 355, 383... It's like having a faster Harley. Still slow. And again, to clarify, my favorite bike is a Harley powered Buell. Just being realistic. Slow and slightly less slow is still slow. True for Harleys and big heavy trucks.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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We pulled the engine with the heads on. FYI - the Pittsburgh 1 Ton hoist from HF doesn't reach far enough back to center, front to back (a 4.3 would be even worse), on the engine unless you remove the grille and bumper (I'm getting pretty good at that), it's still a little off center but, manageable.
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After pulling it and mounting on the engine stand, we pulled the Knock Sensor by the starter, and plug on the other side to finish draining the coolant by tipping back and forth.
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After pulling the heads we found that #5 piston was hitting the head due to the spun and missing rod bearing. It looks okay visually but, I'll have the builder clean and check them out - fingers crossed.

You can see where we cleaned off #5's combustion chamber area to look.
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Anyway, I'll strip it down to a bare block, have the cam checked too, and go from there with my 383 build! Thanks everyone for your input so far :biggrin:

All input is greatly appreciated as always!
 
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