Mad Customs

[MrPink]

I am just glad I have one of those hand held push button starter things, that way I can see if the engine I get will rotate freely while it is on the stand not in the truck lol.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I am just glad I have one of those hand held push button starter things, that way I can see if the engine I get will rotate freely while it is on the stand not in the truck lol.

It's kind of a pain to get to though. Yeah, in theory if I had the wrong wire on the relay I could put the Lonewolf 3000 on it and it should start.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Going through my notes and the LT1swap pages again, C4 Black pin 18 pink wire (Ignition Feed) is connected to the fuseblock main relay signal. Verified that's how it's connected.

That would have been an easy fix.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

The relay box is cheap Amazon/Chinese junk, but I don't think it's the cause. I ordered a Bussmann box so I can do it properly later.

Tested power and ground to both coil packs and it's good. Tested 2 injector clips and they were both getting 14.1v measured to the block (I have the charger on it), but only 8.5v across both wires. I know the PCM pulses so the ground, so I'm not sure if that's really a problem.

I hooked up the OBD2 gizmo again and I noticed I don't get any RPM reading while cranking. Pulled out the crank and cam sensor connectors and was seeing 13.1v,0v,0v in the 3 wires in both.

Easiest thing to do next is grab the tune out of the PCM and verify VATS is gone. Both cam and crank sensors are new, but Autozone house brand. If VATS is deleted and it still doesn't start I may swap in the old sensors.

I'm still confused why I don't get any fuel pressure. Maybe there is a blockage somewhere? It was running before I parked it in the garage and ripped out the 4.3.

 

[Wh4t3v3rs]

The relay box is cheap Amazon/Chinese junk, but I don't think it's the cause. I ordered a Bussmann box so I can do it properly later.

Tested power and ground to both coil packs and it's good. Tested 2 injector clips and they were both getting 14.1v measured to the block (I have the charger on it), but only 8.5v across both wires. I know the PCM pulses so the ground, so I'm not sure if that's really a problem.

I hooked up the OBD2 gizmo again and I noticed I don't get any RPM reading while cranking. Pulled out the crank and cam sensor connectors and was seeing 13.1v,0v,0v in the 3 wires in both.

Easiest thing to do next is grab the tune out of the PCM and verify VATS is gone. Both cam and crank sensors are new, but Autozone house brand. If VATS is deleted and it still doesn't start I may swap in the old sensors.

I'm still confused why I don't get any fuel pressure. Maybe there is a blockage somewhere? It was running before I parked it in the garage and ripped out the 4.3.

So you're NOT hearing the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

So you're NOT hearing the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

It does come on, you can hear it. It just doesn't build any pressure. No fuel comes out the schrader valve either.

 

[618 Syndicate]

It does come on, you can hear it. It just doesn't build any pressure. No fuel comes out the schrader valve either.

Dumb question, is there gas in the tank?

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Dumb question, is there gas in the tank?

Yeah, full. The gauge still works too.

I am thinking about disconnecting the feed line from the rail and see if anything comes out.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Yeah, full. The gauge still works too.

I am thinking about disconnecting the feed line from the rail and see if anything comes out.

Wonder if it's sucked up some trash or something that's physically preventing fuel from flowing.

 

[Wh4t3v3rs]

Personally, I would be checking the **** out of grounds and connections. Your pump primes but won't hold a load. Unless you did something wrong in the installation of the pump..... you said you only had 8.5 volts on some fuse. what does it control or feed? Maybe make a fused jumper and give it 12 volts. Just talking out loud.