Lubricant for hood latch? Hood latch not always releasing

[IOWNJUNK]

This. $5 at Lowes.

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[tanman_2006]

I have to hit all of my hoods too and none of them are the exact same place either lol. The 93 takes a whack mid driverside right on the curve. 95 takes a whack slightly right of center and from straight ahead. 94 is special and takes both hand beating (hood is bent in front and at the hinges). I put on a pretty good show when I check my oil lol.

 

[cjman250]

You just have to show some love and hit the sweet spot

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[Jorge6.5]

This. $5 at Lowes.

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I just read up on that, sounds like it should do a great job on the hood latch. I'm gonna get some of that. Thanks

 

[someotherguy]

This ain't complicated. Take a good look at the latch and you'll see that you need to spray "inside" the mechanism. See where the pawl rubs against the main portion of the latch. If you can't get some grease down in there, you're not going to do a lot of good. Use white lithium with the spray nozzle and try not to get it in your eyes...

Hood whacking is for Fonzie wannabe's that can't figure out how to operate a can of spray grease.

Richard

 

[IOWNJUNK]

I just read up on that, sounds like it should do a great job on the hood latch. I'm gonna get some of that. Thanks

Yep, anytime. That stuff has replaced all of my other spray lubes, best motorcycle chain lube out there for the money too. Dupont has another called chainsaver, they are pretty much the same, one has more moly in it and one is thicker than the other. Good stuff, either one should do fine.

 

[michael hurd]

I use Rustcheck spray: It's a thin oil, and wets everything very quickly. If there is a thick layer of grease and road grime in the latch itself, take it off and wash it out with varsol or similar solvent. Also, the springs can benefit from a spray, it reduces the friction between the wraps, as well as the pivots: the one under the cowl panel usually starts to seize on higher mileage trucks, especially if you are in the rust belt.

Once everything is cleaned, lubricated and adjusted properly, it will pop every time.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-check-spray-0477907p.html#.Uwdr-4VFCJQ

 

[95Escahoe]

This ain't complicated. Take a good look at the latch and you'll see that you need to spray "inside" the mechanism. See where the pawl rubs against the main portion of the latch. If you can't get some grease down in there, you're not going to do a lot of good. Use white lithium with the spray nozzle and try not to get it in your eyes...

Hood whacking is for Fonzie wannabe's that can't figure out how to operate a can of spray grease.

Richard

X2 same stuff I use

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[sewlow]

A good cleaning and a lube a couple or three time a year keeps my truck's latches working. I hate the crea-ee-ee-king of the hood springs, so they get some lube too. Usually with lithium.
Keeping the cable lubed too, also helps. For that I use a wax-based chain lube. Spray or a liquid. It's a wax that's suspended in liquid that evaporates when exposed to air leaving just the wax.
Wax doesn't attract or retain dirt. I spray it into the ends of the cable housing from both ends, then work the interior latch handle. back & forth several times. I'll do that 2 or 3x to make sure that the wax gets right into the length of the cable housing.
The wax lube works on the hinges & the latch, too.

 

[Horns]

You hood wackers are going to have fun when it gets so bad that wacking the hood will no longer make it release.