Donald Mitchell
1990 C1500 5.7L
For reference 1993 K1500 5.7L gm part number. https://www.genuinegm.com/oem-parts...wJnk9MTk5MyZ0PWNoZXllbm5lJmU9NS03bC12OC1nYXM=
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I KNOW that my 1993 K1500 had riveted ball joints on the front lower control arms.
The removal is about a 15 minute deal. Here is the process I use:
1) Use a die grinder to cut an “X” or “+” sign in the top (head) of the rivet.
2) Use an air chisel or small sledge and chisel to chip off the head of rivet.
3) Use center punch to enable you to use a small drill bit.
4) Use small drill bit to drill a vertical hole in the center of rivet as it goes through the holes of the lower control arm. Try to get as far through the rivet as possible, at least half-way. (Taking care to ONLY drill the rivet)
5) Use a larger drill bit to make a larger vertical hole in the center of the rivet. Go as far through as possible. Again, be careful to keep from drilling into the control arm itself.
6) Use an air hammer/chisel or small sledge and chisel to pound the rivet out downward.
Sounds like a pain, and it is. But this is BY fAR the simplest and fastest way I know to remove these. Literally 15 minutes per side. And, you never have to do it again.
Just to throw in another method, I used a small drill press (8" Craftsman I think) propped up on a couple blocks of wood to drill out the rivets on my 94 K1500. Saved my arm and back from having to drill out all of the rivets on my hands an knees
GM never offered a replacement bushing for the forged lower arm, probably due to the lower volume. But when they built the H2 they used the same bushing, and they did service it. I have forged arms with H2 bushings in my 1995 K1500. My originals looked like they came out of the ocean.
GM never offered a replacement bushing for the forged lower arm, probably due to the lower volume. But when they built the H2 they used the same bushing, and they did service it. I have forged arms with H2 bushings in my 1995 K1500. My originals looked like they came out of the ocean.
Thanks for that. I needed a kick in the ass to get to work on that project--I'm way overdue for slapping lower bushings 'n' ball joints on my '97 K2500.The lower poly bushings that came in the energy suspension bushing kit I purchased for my 93 K1500 fit fine on the newer lower forged arms.
What do you mean by "I can't get the shaft of the balljoint to straighten out"? Are you saying that the ball joint stud won't pivot in the joint?Biggest issue I’ve run into now is the spindles don’t want to go onto the lower balljoint. It seems like there’s not enough room to get them to slid into the tapered holes. The lower control arm around the balljoint is making contact with the knuckle and I can’t get the shaft of the balljoint to straighten out to slide in. I’m wondering if the knuckle was changed when the forged lower control arms started. Anyone have any insight on this?