Lower Control Arms Help

[Donald Mitchell]

For reference 1993 K1500 5.7L gm part number. https://www.genuinegm.com/oem-parts...wJnk9MTk5MyZ0PWNoZXllbm5lJmU9NS03bC12OC1nYXM=

 

[MIHELA]

GM never offered a replacement bushing for the forged lower arm, probably due to the lower volume. But when they built the H2 they used the same bushing, and they did service it. I have forged arms with H2 bushings in my 1995 K1500. My originals looked like they came out of the ocean.

 

[alpinecrick]

I KNOW that my 1993 K1500 had riveted ball joints on the front lower control arms.

The removal is about a 15 minute deal. Here is the process I use:

1) Use a die grinder to cut an “X” or “+” sign in the top (head) of the rivet.

2) Use an air chisel or small sledge and chisel to chip off the head of rivet.

3) Use center punch to enable you to use a small drill bit.

4) Use small drill bit to drill a vertical hole in the center of rivet as it goes through the holes of the lower control arm. Try to get as far through the rivet as possible, at least half-way. (Taking care to ONLY drill the rivet)

5) Use a larger drill bit to make a larger vertical hole in the center of the rivet. Go as far through as possible. Again, be careful to keep from drilling into the control arm itself.

6) Use an air hammer/chisel or small sledge and chisel to pound the rivet out downward.

Sounds like a pain, and it is. But this is BY fAR the simplest and fastest way I know to remove these. Literally 15 minutes per side. And, you never have to do it again.

Which is exactly the way I remove the upper control arm BJ's, with the added info:

Use cobalt drill bits, preferably the 8% (M42), including multiples of the 1/8" bits.

Lots of cutting oil.

A Drill Doctor is your friend. As soon as the bit stops making curls or large chips of rivet material, I switch to a freshly sharpened bit--'cause I ain't got all day to wear the rivet to death.

Don't drill all the way through the rivet with the 1/8" bit, that way I fill up the 1/8" cavity with cutting oil so I don't have to stop as often to apply oil when using the larger bit.

My big 5/8"s chuck slow speed (600 rpm) Makita drill is faster and easier on bits than my smaller drills.

I've done both of my vans, my 91 LD K2500 (which had pressed in lowers), my 96 K1500, two 1996+ K1500 Suburbans of friends, and am working up the courage to do my lowish mileage 97 K1500 entire front end here in the near future, which will include all the MevoTech TX parts they make for the K1500's.

Also, I installed poly bushings on my 96 K1500 when I rebuilt the entire front end--Energy Suspension bushings, Timken hub bearing assemblies, MOOG for all four tie rod ends, tie rod adjusters, pitman arm, idler arm bracket, idler arm, and upper and lower BJ's.

The poly bushings squeaked like a herd of gutshot crickets under certain temp/humidity conditions. It made the ride harsher without improving the handling one iota. After about 3 years I couldn't stand it anymore and went through all the agony of removing the the poly bushings and installing AC Delco bushings. Quieter and better ride without increased harshness. If I can help it, no more poly for me.
The Moog upper BJ's began showing play at 10K+, replaced them with MevoTech TX uppers and they improved the steering/handling more than the entire front end rebuild did. When one Moog lower began showing play at 15k+, I installed Mevotech TX lowers. I can't recommend the MevoTech TX ball joints enough. I hope the MevoTech tie rod ends are just as good when I install them on my 97 K1500.

 

[alpinecrick]

Just to throw in another method, I used a small drill press (8" Craftsman I think) propped up on a couple blocks of wood to drill out the rivets on my 94 K1500. Saved my arm and back from having to drill out all of the rivets on my hands an knees

And now that I'm a proud owner of a old, USA made Rockwell drill press, I'm gonna try just that!

 

[alpinecrick]

GM never offered a replacement bushing for the forged lower arm, probably due to the lower volume. But when they built the H2 they used the same bushing, and they did service it. I have forged arms with H2 bushings in my 1995 K1500. My originals looked like they came out of the ocean.

Cool, that's good info!

 

[454cid]

GM never offered a replacement bushing for the forged lower arm, probably due to the lower volume. But when they built the H2 they used the same bushing, and they did service it. I have forged arms with H2 bushings in my 1995 K1500. My originals looked like they came out of the ocean.

Rockauto indicates otherwise. They have at least one of the bushings listed for my 1-ton from AC-Delco and its different from the bushing that is listed for the H2. The selection does seem to be limited in either application.

 

[ItsMarty]

New to me control arms came in, covered in dirt but should clean up nicely. These came off a 1999 K3500 dually, they match up with the arms on my 1993 K1500 RCSB. The bushings seem similar to each other, but I’ll find out once the paint drys and I go to install the new ones.

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[Schurkey]

Makes me think I should grab some forged arms next time I'm at the Treasure Yard.

 

[ItsMarty]

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The lower poly bushings that came in the energy suspension bushing kit I purchased for my 93 K1500 fit fine on the newer lower forged arms. Biggest issue I’ve run into now is the spindles don’t want to go onto the lower balljoint. It seems like there’s not enough room to get them to slid into the tapered holes. The lower control arm around the balljoint is making contact with the knuckle and I can’t get the shaft of the balljoint to straighten out to slide in. I’m wondering if the knuckle was changed when the forged lower control arms started. Anyone have any insight on this?

 

[Schurkey]

The lower poly bushings that came in the energy suspension bushing kit I purchased for my 93 K1500 fit fine on the newer lower forged arms.

Thanks for that. I needed a kick in the ass to get to work on that project--I'm way overdue for slapping lower bushings 'n' ball joints on my '97 K2500.

I'd been debating on buying spare forged arms to make sure the bushings fit properly. Now I know I don't need to.

Biggest issue I’ve run into now is the spindles don’t want to go onto the lower balljoint. It seems like there’s not enough room to get them to slid into the tapered holes. The lower control arm around the balljoint is making contact with the knuckle and I can’t get the shaft of the balljoint to straighten out to slide in. I’m wondering if the knuckle was changed when the forged lower control arms started. Anyone have any insight on this?

What do you mean by "I can't get the shaft of the balljoint to straighten out"? Are you saying that the ball joint stud won't pivot in the joint?

My understanding from reading posts on this forum, is that the forged arms are interchangeable with both versions of the stamped arms.