Looking for engine help ideas...

[cngodfather]

Thanks! Thats good to know. One more thing to put on the christmas list.

 

[cookseyb]

Isn't that a roller engine from the factory? If so why change to flat tappet cam and lifters?

 

[Tim W]

I wished I would have known all this stuff. I was told by an engine tuner he would eventually get my truck tune right but at a couple $100 a pop that gets expensive. For that money I could put a Holly sniper on there and forget about it. My motor is 383 stroker with 9.5to1 compression ratio-- LT4 Hot Cam 219/228'@.050"-.492"lift on 112'LSA with 1.6 roller rockers. Vortec heads 1.96"x1.55" valves and 110# seat pressure springs.

My block is also a vortec block. I was told that 94 and 95 blocks were not drilled to accept a roller cam. So i found a 97 vortec block for $100

 

[Hipster]

Some people need to be told twice.


















Lol no I just hit the button too many times ha.

LOL!!!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Isn't that a roller engine from the factory?

No, TBI truck engines from 88 - 95 came with flat tappet cams but almost all of them came with the bosses for the lifter spyder but weren't drilled and tapped. You can do that but watch out for shavings and contamination.

 

[cngodfather]

I am still stuck on which pistons to get. Probably hypereutectic, but not sure what cc to get. From what I am reading, depending on the cam, my dynamic compression changes alot. I am going to get the block zero decked to the pistons that I buy so that the compression height will not be taken into account. The original plan was to keep it emissions legal. A farm plate should take care of that. It still needs to run on pump gas though. The speed pro brand seems to be the best value. The last motor ( for a different vehicle ) I built ran great, but it felt like it wasn't as powerful as it should have been. I was not aware of dynamic compression and how much the thickness of the head gasket made. After researching, I may have been missing some important variables. It was 9.5 static compression and I haven't a clue to what it really had.

 

[cngodfather]

The block I am using is a 91 block. it is not prepped for a roller setup. i dropped it off at the machine shop and the guy told me that if i used a flat tappet cam I would need special oil for the life of the engine. I had always thought that if i used the proper assembly lube and did the break in correctly, that I could drive with normal oil after that. He highly recommended that I go roller so as to avoid the oil issue. Is he correct in that thought? I tried pricing a roller cam and retro lifters but , I don't think that is really in my budget.

 

[98 Nitro]

Zddp is mostly needed for cam break in, but you can always use the High Mileage oil of the brand you like as they have slightly more of the additive.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

X2 - you can used ZDDP with mineral oil, something like Valvoline 5w-30 for break in and the 1st 500 miles, then go to a full synthetic oil. I use Mobil1 10w-40 because zinc and phosphorus are still fairly high.

 

[cngodfather]

That is what I will do then. Right now the block and pistons are in the machine shop. I bought .030 speed pro flat top pistons with 6cc reliefs. They are getting pressed pins on the stock rods. two rods were out of tolerance and are getting repaired. block is going to be zero decked. rotating assembly is getting a full balance. It is going to be painted red.