Look how they massacred my boy...Now what to do about it?

[Supercharged111]

Thinking back to the image you showed of the torsion bar adjuster bolts they didn't look to be dialed in too far, but looking at the angles and the fact your driver UCA is touching the down travel stop while the rig is sitting on the ground I would have to agree that the driver t bar is cranked to the max. This agrees with the images I posted showing how the camber goes more and more negative as you crank higher and higher.

One thought is if the guy that installed the keys didn't clock them right on the tbar hex and accidentally keyed them too far down before reassembly (maybe just the driver side). I think I have read threads where people have done this and ended up with completely cranked torsion bars when their adjuster bolts were just barely threaded in.

I got my bars mixed up reinstalling on my 1500 and found that, when they're not clocked correctly, you bend the installer tool and still don't get the keys far enough on to even slide the little dealies in where the adjuster bolt goes.

 

[xAFNYx]

Dude look at the picture, it's plain as day. The angles are different left to right. If you don't have a lift kit, you're not going to get this right period. No control arm or any workaround in the world will fix your alignment. Look at those tie rods for Christ's sake, that thing is massively overcranked. It may not be what you want to hear, but I'm right.

I have the same lift as op. And I'm willing to hear any input seeing as I've had the truck since August and havnt been able to even put a tank of gas through it lol.

It could very well be the torsion bars. If this mechanic couldn't figure it out, I was either going to sell it or try to replace the torsion bars.

 

[Supercharged111]

I have the same lift as op. And I'm willing to hear any input seeing as I've had the truck since August and havnt been able to even put a tank of gas through it lol.

It could very well be the torsion bars. If this mechanic couldn't figure it out, I was either going to sell it or try to replace the torsion bars.

That's not a lift. That's a half-ass corrected crank. It does nothing to correct the control arm and tie rod angles. I forgot to mention that the way OP staggered those bushings is against what the manufacturer recommends as it twists the crap out of the bushings and frame mounts, they may not be long lived. He got a decent alignment out of it for now, but if his angles are like yours then the rest of the front end will be short lived. Those bushings are meant to be installed the same way, usually to correct for camber only.

 

[RichLo]

I was just looking back at your pictures... did you clock your transfer case??

 

[xAFNYx]

I was just looking back at your pictures... did you clock your transfer case??

I have no idea what that means lol.

 

[RichLo]

The bottom skid plate is lowered and it looks like a piece of transfer case is hanging lower than it should.

Clocking the transfer case is common for BIG lifts to get the front driveshaft angle better. But your front diff is in its factory location, there's obviously no need for that if it is clocked, lol.

 

[xAFNYx]

The bottom skid plate is lowered and it looks like a piece of transfer case is hanging lower than it should.

Clocking the transfer case is common for BIG lifts to get the front driveshaft angle better. But your front diff is in its factory location, there's obviously no need for that if it is clocked, lol.

I honestly dont know

 

[RichLo]

Can you get some pics of the t-case when you get your truck back?

 

[xAFNYx]

Can you get some pics of the t-case when you get your truck back?

yeah absolutely

The bottom skid plate is lowered and it looks like a piece of transfer case is hanging lower than it should.

Maybe it's the diff? I know the 2.5-3" kit requires you to lower(?) the diff.

 

[RevRun]

Maybe it's the diff? I know the 2.5-3" kit requires you to lower(?) the diff.

I think that is the lowered diff along with the spacer pucks for the diff skid plate. From the front looks a little odd.
you can see this guys rig has that same look at the 40:39 mark.

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I forgot to mention that the way OP staggered those bushings is against what the manufacturer recommends as it twists the crap out of the bushings and frame mounts, they may not be long lived. He got a decent alignment out of it for now, but if his angles are like yours then the rest of the front end will be short lived. Those bushings are meant to be installed the same way, usually to correct for camber only.

As @Supercharged111 mentions yes, the bushings are not installed per standard mfg. recommendation and I do not condone this for anyone else. In this case I am happy to be a guinea pig and will report back if these things die early. I didn't see much in the way of twisting or binding in the bushings during install and my own bs alignment. Everything moved smoothly. Fortunately, I am running the t-bars as low as possible so my angles are pretty mellow and I have hope for the balljoints/CVs


Thought I would mention I also did the power steering EVO module delete while I had the truck apart. This made a nice difference in consistency in steering feel at all speeds and still provides plenty of assist in parking lots for easy turning. 10/10 would recommend for anyone having issues with that genius GM feature