Look how they massacred my boy...Now what to do about it?

[Supercharged111]

My question, sorry if I missed it, who punched out the knockouts? If it wasn't this shop then it's unlikely they would have noticed those wallered out holes.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

My question, sorry if I missed it, who punched out the knockouts? If it wasn't this shop then it's unlikely they would have noticed those wallered out holes.

O.P. stated in post #1, after the pics, that O.P. installed new UCA's and the align shop needed to remove the knockouts to align it. And failed miserably...

 

[RevRun]

O.P. stayed in post #1, after the pics, that O.P. installed new UCA's and the align shop needed to remove the knockouts to align it. And failed miserably...

Yeah not sure how the got reasonably clean outers but butchered inner slots but they managed to.

Try running a longer set of front shocks. Cranking the ride height has extended them to the control zone end of the shock, causing a harsh ride.

I'm running the RC N3 shocks that came with the kit but so far haven't been impressed. May end up going back to the Bilsteins 5100s I run on my other rigs. Will take a look at eye distance when choosing.
About how far into the extent of travel will a shock reach the control zone?

 

[sewlow]

Depending on brand/quality, the knockout punch sells for anywhere between $75 to $150.
It's not a GM specific tool.
At that price, figure that 2 or 3 of them would be basic standard equipment in...

...a FRONT END shop!

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[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Yeah not sure how the got reasonably clean outers but butchered inner slots but they managed to.

The outers are slotted from the factory. The inner ones have the knock outs.
8 holes, only 4 require modification during alignment.

 

[HeavyAsAChevy]

Anyone run a steering stabilizer on a 1500? Wondering if it may help with the bump steer i've experienced before the lift and expect is still there.

I know that rough country makes one and someone on here runs it. I don’t remember who though.

 

[RevRun]

Went ahead and cleaned up the slots which allowed me to pull in the camber about .3-.4 degrees as measured with a digital gauge at the rotor with a jack under the knuckle to get it at ride height (not exactly precision work but good enough to see improvement). Just received the eccentric bushings to swap into the UCAs then its bolt it all up and head to a local shop. Called them already, discussed custom adjustment numbers and they are happy to do it so long as it doesn't cause a safety issue. It's a smaller shop with a good standing in the offroad and classic car community so I expect no problems.

Not getting far with the original shop. Called and talked to a couple of managers but getting generally blown off. As I am now hundreds of miles away and the rig is torn down I can't well roll it into their shop and point at the damage. At this point I'd be happy knowing
hoping they keep this kind of thing from happening again. I have too much else going on to burn much more time dicking around trying to recoup the alignment cost. I'll probably just caulk it up to experience and move on with life.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Share your experience with all your friends in the area. They need to know so they can avoid that shop.

 

[alignman88]

upper control arms replaced? If they’re asymmetrical (I can’t remember honestly) and on the wrong sides there’s your caster and camber problems. Haven’t been in the shop turning wrenches for a few years so no instant recall. I have QA1 front end for my 88 and I swear it’s asymmetrical upper but it will go to 7 degrees. Just a thought hope you get it lined out.

 

[RevRun]

upper control arms replaced? If they’re asymmetrical (I can’t remember honestly) and on the wrong sides there’s your caster and camber problems. Haven’t been in the shop turning wrenches for a few years so no instant recall. I have QA1 front end for my 88 and I swear it’s asymmetrical upper but it will go to 7 degrees. Just a thought hope you get it lined out.

You are correct on them being asym but based on part number I do have the driver/passenger on the right sides. I certainly did consider trying to swap them as the geo change alone would pull the upper ball joints about 1" further to the rear. The thing I am concerned about is potential binding as the wheel-end of the UCAs have a 'twist' to them and hold the ball joints at a forward angle. I will play around a bit with swapping them during assembly and see how it's playing out.