Lifter replacement

[MiGorda]

It seems like you don´t understand. Of course that lifter fitting is one thing and that wouldn´t fix my problem. The mechanic would give me his opinion but I'm not sure that he knows about aftermarket lifters, maybe he would tell me that a stock lifter will work fine but maybe he is wrong. That´s my concern.

 

[MiGorda]

I´m not asking a solution, so there´s no need of pictures. I just want a response to my question: what could happen if I put a stock lifter with that cam or can I use the inner parts of the Lunati lifter and that would make the stock lifter stronger? Focus on that please and forget about the rest, at least for the moment.

In case you need more info, these the kit number 10120101K.

 

[tpass]

You are asking if internal lifter components can be swapped around, but unless somebody on this forum has those specific components in their possession and can measure or test your scenario, there is no way to answer your question, but most likely the lifter components are not interchangeable.

What Hipster is telling you, is that if you cannot remove the lifter easily, then it is likely damaged externally. When lifters and cams don't break in properly, the bottom of the lifter can mushroom and deform, preventing you from removing it from the bore, which sounds what happened to you.

If you damaged your lifter internally trying to remove it form the bore, then you have more problems than replacing the one lifter will fix. And any lifter you put in will soon be damaged as well. When your mechanic arrives to assist, you'll know what will need to be done and he can answer your questions on the lifter compatibility.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Here's the "recommended" extractor tool. I've never had the need to buy one.
www.amazon.com/JEGS-Hydraulic-Lifter-Removal-Secure/dp/B08LMZBXBF

If the lifter bore is good, get a NEW stock lifter and drop it in.
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=212703

Be sure and check your pushrod length and rocker arm contact pattern.

 

[MiGorda]

You are asking if internal lifter components can be swapped around, but unless somebody on this forum has those specific components in their possession and can measure or test your scenario, there is no way to answer your question, but most likely the lifter components are not interchangeable.

What Hipster is telling you, is that if you cannot remove the lifter easily, then it is likely damaged externally. When lifters and cams don't break in properly, the bottom of the lifter can mushroom and deform, preventing you from removing it from the bore, which sounds what happened to you.

If you damaged your lifter internally trying to remove it form the bore, then you have more problems than replacing the one lifter will fix. And any lifter you put in will soon be damaged as well. When your mechanic arrives to assist, you'll know what will need to be done and he can answer your questions on the lifter compatibility.

I understand perfectly what you and Hipster say but you don´t understand my context.

The engine was fine, only a little tick from the valves, so I tried to calibrate them but overtighed them, so apparently I damaged the valve but not the lifter, anyway I tried to remove it but put it too much pressure and broke it with my pressure clamp, I thought they were made with a stronger metal.

My mechanic is not an expert in customized engines, just have a little experience and I can´t trust him completely. Actually he told me that we can put a stock lifter so I'm trying to confirm his answer.

And the worst, at this moment I can´t afford the best job, before the "plandemia" I used to give good components to my truck but now I can´t. I need the most simple solution even if don´t last too much and maybe later I could.

Thanks

 

[MiGorda]

Here's the "recommended" extractor tool. I've never had the need to buy one.
www.amazon.com/JEGS-Hydraulic-Lifter-Removal-Secure/dp/B08LMZBXBF

If the lifter bore is good, get a NEW stock lifter and drop it in.
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=212703

Be sure and check your pushrod length and rocker arm contact pattern.

Thanks budy, this is the answer I was looking for. Regards.

 

[Schurkey]

STOP.

1. If you try to rip a damaged/mushroomed lifter out the top of the lifter bore, you'll likely damage the lifter bore, which means the engine gets torn-down and--at minimum--the lifter bore is bored and sleeved with a bronze bushing. This will be VERY EXPENSIVE.

2. They sell tools to remove VARNISHED (NOT MUSHROOMED/DAMAGED) lifters from the top of the bore. The varnish is relatively soft, gets scraped-off the lifter as the lifter is forced-up through the cast iron lifter bore. The folks selling the tools will not pay for the damage they cause if you misuse them on damaged lifters where the steel has formed burrs that will gouge and score the iron bore. See #1.

3. If the lifter is relatively new, (9000 miles) and can't be pulled out of the bore easily, the bottom has mushroomed, because varnish doesn't build-up that fast. See #1. The camshaft is ALSO ruined, and will have to come out.

4. Any lifter that will come out of the bore like normal, comes out. Any lifter that won't come out of the bore, gets pulled upward to the limit of it's travel, without forcing it. Slide the cam out. Push the lifters DOWN to remove them after the cam is gone. You'll need a cardboard or thin sheetmetal half-circle "tray" slid down the cam tunnel to catch the lifter(s) as they come out the bottom of the lifter bore, or else they'll fall into the oil pan.

5. IF (big IF) there is a miracle this Christmas season, and that camshaft is not totaled--and I don't think this is at all likely--you could poke it back into the block, replace the other lifters in the same lifter bore they came out of, drop some other Chevy lifter on the lobe that had the damaged lifter, run the break-in procedure again, and IF (big IF) that lifter is the same functional height as the one you removed, you'd be fine. MAYBE the "new" lifter is taller or shorter than the one removed, which MIGHT mean you need a shorter or longer pushrod on that lifter. I hate to even mention this, as it's so unlikely that the cam will be reusable.

6. So the easiest option if you insist on replacing one lifter is to buy one lifter of the same sort you bought to begin with. I think that would be a waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm, 'cause you'll be replacing it--and the cam, the rest of the lifters, and the bearings, maybe the pistons, honing the cylinders, etc. when that cam lobe goes entirely round and fills the oiling system with metal debris soon thereafter.

7. LIFTERS ARE ASSEMBLED AT THE FACTORY WITH A "SELECT FIT". The lifter body ID is measured with ultra-precision equipment to the zillionth of an inch. The lifter plungers are measured to the zillionth of an inch. Then they're sorted into size-specific groups, so the bodies with the biggest diameter get the plungers with the biggest diameter, the bodies with the smallest diameter get the plungers with the smallest diameter, etc. Hydraulic lifter clearances are MICROSCOPIC. Hydraulic lifters are the highest-precision parts in an engine, by far. You WILL NOT mix parts from one lifter into another lifter.

8. NOW you know why it's nucking futs to assemble an engine with a flat-tappet cam in this day and age, ESPECIALLY if you have a block that's already set up for OEM roller-lifters.

 

[MiGorda]

Wow, thanks Schurkey, you give me a full vision of my problem, however I reiterate that before I opened this thread, understand that could be a big damage but there is a symptom that makes me believe that the worst is the valve broken, because when I loose the rocker arm the knocking noise were bigger, like a little hammer, so I guess the valve is slamming inside the cylinder and of course understand clearly that could be a damamge in the cam but I hope is not too much, so my intention is just to replace the lifter and the valve even if it´s not the best job and maybe later I could save money and replace ALL the parts to make it work nice and smooth. Regards.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The engine was fine, only a little tick from the valves, so I tried to calibrate them but overtighed them, so apparently I damaged the valve but not the lifter, anyway I tried to remove it but put it too much pressure and broke it with my pressure clamp, I thought they were made with a stronger metal.

Here's a couple pictures of my Lunati cam and lifters - one was collapsed and one was mushroomed (the one with the dish), I had a hell of a time getting it out because it was flared at the bottom. Whether you have a stuck valve or not, you're cam and lifters are suspect too (like everyone above tried to tell you). I was able to find single Lunati lifters somewhere, maybe Summit racing (but I don't See any now). I replaced them and ran it for a couple weeks, or so, until the shiny stuff in the oil caused my rod bearing to spin. Then the piston was going up too high and KNOCKING INTO THE HEAD, making a real loud banging noise, like you describe). Drain the oil and look for metal filings and/or glitter in the pan or the filter. That'll tell you.

www.gmt400.com/threads/my-flat-tappet-cam-wiped-out-so-i-decided-to-go-roller.60167/post-1277333

My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

A little background: About 4 years ago, my '88 C1500 with the 5.7L TBI engine started overheating on me. I found the head gaskets blown. I knew the swirl port heads and peanut cam were about useless so, I decided to "upgrade" to better parts while trying to keep it fairly cheap - yeah right...

www.gmt400.com

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

As @Schurkey would say "A wild guess with no facts" is it your #6 exhaust valve/lifter?