In desperate need of help

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Dan1raysouth

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yessterday my truck ran out of power so I went a bought a battery, a alternator and a serpentine belt.
I cannot get alternator to charge the battery. All of my connections are decent I ran a multimeter test from negative side post to the positive bolt on alternator and got 12.5 v and I ran a meter from positive side post to the ground under tensioner. Got same 12.5v. I checked connector that goes into alternator and it has no power when hooking test light up to it. Also i got rid of 175 mega amp fuse and just ran all wires on the same bolt.
I wonder is this 1 wired connector to alternator a ground wire?
Literally on my last 10$
2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.7l vortec
 

DeCaff2007

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You should be getting a solid 12.8V or better right off of the alternator. When you say "mulitmeter test", are you checking for actual DC voltage or just continuity?

Try checking the voltage directly between the alternator and the battery. It should be the same. Check ground connections for corrosion. It appears in the most unlikely of places and causes all kinds of problems.

What "all the wires" are you talking about?
 

RichLo

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The alternator should be grounded through the mounting bolts, so there should be no worries there.

Did you rev it while testing voltage? If it goes up at all your charging just fine.

Can you get pictures of this '1 wired connector"? And of the 175 amp mega fuse you eliminated?
 

Erik the Awful

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The alternator should be grounded through the mounting bolts, so there should be no worries there.
Make sure the mounting bolts are clean and not corroded. Make sure all your battery connections are clean and tight, especially since you still have side posts.

You should be getting a solid 12.8V or better right off of the alternator.
Did you rev it while testing voltage? If it goes up at all your charging just fine.
In other words, rev it up to between 2000 and 3000 rpm and check to make sure you have at least 12.8v.
 

Dan1raysouth

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I think it may be a resistor wire? Idk My alternator is fine I went and got it tested battery is also fine.
 

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Schurkey

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yessterday my truck ran out of power
Ran out of power? Engine power? Battery power? Alternator power?

so I went a bought a battery, a alternator and a serpentine belt.
I cannot get alternator to charge the battery. All of my connections are decent
You don't know that "all" your connections are "decent". You haven't tested them all. And you've sabotaged at least some of them--the ones that were protected by the ****-fuse.

Really? Ma_xi is obscene?

I ran a multimeter test from negative side post to the positive bolt on alternator and got 12.5 v and I ran a meter from positive side post to the ground under tensioner. Got same 12.5v.
Engine running? Engine off?

The battery, if fully charged, should have 12.6--12.7 volts. You need to put a battery charger on that battery.

I checked connector that goes into alternator and it has no power when hooking test light up to it.
Ignition on, or off? Which wire were you probing? There should be at least two connections on the alternator; the alternator output wire and a molded-plastic "plug-in" connector with at least one wire.


Also i got rid of 175 mega amp fuse and just ran all wires on the same bolt.
How is that wise? Why would you do that?

I wonder is this 1 wired connector to alternator a ground wire?
Picture?

You should be getting a solid 12.8V or better right off of the alternator.
I'd expect 14 + volts. Typically 14.2.

My alternator is fine I went and got it tested battery is also fine.
So you're saying the problem is in the vehicle wire harness?
 

Dan1raysouth

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I think so i hooked a test light into connector of the alternator. Didn’t get anything. What is the function of the brown wire that goes images the connector
 

evilunclegrimace

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These alternators were designed to charge at idle speeds, even with a battery that is a bit low there should be 13.5-14.5 volts at idle from the alternator to the battery.
 

Hipster

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is it possible to run a jumper wire to ign fuse to the alternator connector?
Hasn't been there been enough hackery already?

Describe why the need for 175 amp fuse? Hacked in stereo system? Something you created? Sometimes the first place to look is the last place someone effed with/worked on.

You can do more harm then good back-probing wires if you don't know what's what. Altenators have diodes and diodes don't like to be powered up bassackward neither do icm's or ecm's.
 
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