Ignition A fuse keeps popping on crank

[kenbronnson73]

here, a bit more

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

i would start connecting an amper meter in place of 40A maxifuse, key on , not start and take a lecture of current beeng flowing in circuit before starter solenoid is activated, if with key on high current is flowing then you have a potential short in one of the circuits protected for fuses yellow highlighted in this post, and the ones arrowed in blue in previous post

Looking at diagrams posted the short is one of two places:
1)Between ignition switch and IP fuse block where the 10 amp is.(very unlikely but possibly rubbed through on sharp dash or steering column bracket)
2) most likely between the underhood plastic starter relay and starter solenoid.again make sure it isnt pinched around by the starter .
The park neutral switch can't be the problem it's in the wrong part of the circuit.
BTW dont put an ammeter in place of the fuse you will just blow the fuse in the ammeter.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk

 

[eyesi]

Looking at diagrams posted the short is one of two places:
1)Between ignition switch and IP fuse block where the 10 amp is.(very unlikely but possibly rubbed through on sharp dash or steering column bracket)
2) most likely between the underhood plastic starter relay and starter solenoid.again make sure it isnt pinched around by the starter .
The park neutral switch can't be the problem it's in the wrong part of the circuit.
BTW dont put an ammeter in place of the fuse you will just blow the fuse in the ammeter.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk

you are right kenbronnson73, he can burn fuse in ammeter if he turn key to start, also depends on ammeter type he use, which most likely would be 10 amp max,
Also, can try pulling involucrated fuses one at a time, ..

 

[Sampuppy1]

I got a whole weekend this weekend! I grabbed my trusty test light and hooked it to the main feed for the starter to get power. Touched the tester to the trigger wire and the light came on. Sure as **** the trigger wire rubbed through on the transmission dipstick tube bracket for the bell housing. Ran a new section of wire and just like that she fired up. Bit of coughing at first but it's fine now.

Sent from my flagged XT1635-01

Tyler/T-Unit

 

[Sampuppy1]

Also found the coughing issue was likely due to loose pin connections on the ICM plug which I replaced yesterday. Slowly getting this truck back to where it belongs.

Sent from my flagged XT1635-01

Tyler/T-Unit

 

[Randyz71]

I'm having the same issue started Saturday. Blew the 40a maxi I put the 60a from the abs in its place started just fine so I left it alone. Started fine went to work parked now it won't start again popped 2 40s and the 60 today. I'm looking at the diagrams above but it won't let me zoom in and be able to read it does anyone have a copy of them I could use