I need AC! Help!

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Tony Almaraz

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Hey guys just recently bought my 95 z71 and I recharged the AC, it was blowing cool air while the charge. Three hours later I get in and take off and nothing but hot air comes out again :/ what do I check for next?

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PlayingWithTBI

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Do you have a set of gauges? What is the pressure on both sides with engine shut off? Turn the key to run with A/C on, do you hear a click from the A/C compressor. When you turn it on, engine idling, is the A/C compressor clutch engaged/turning if so, what are the pressures on low and high side?
 

deve05

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Hey guys just recently bought my 95 z71 and I recharged the AC, it was blowing cool air while the charge. Three hours later I get in and take off and nothing but hot air comes out again :/ what do I check for next?

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You've most likely got a leak and thats where I would start. Check if your compressor clutch is engaging when you turn the system on, if it doesn't, the system is most likely low on refrigerant and is keeping the clutch from engaging as a self preservation safety. Take it to any decent repair shop and they'll be able to insert dye into the system and re-pressurise it for you to check it, or have them check it. That's IF it already doesn't have some dye in there. As old as these trucks are, thats a big if. Invest in some ac inspection glasses. They make the green of the dye pop out that much more.

Common places for AC to leak are:

-Condenser- rocks and road debris can potentially strike the front mounted condenser and puncture it. Even if you dont see the actual crack, if you see green dye around some fins or along a joint, its most likely leaking. Remember, ac systems are pressurized so it doesn't take a big hole for a leak to happen.

-Lines and joints- anywhere that you can see one material mating with another(rubber section of a line to metal section, etc), or a component bolting onto a line is fair game for a leak to happen. There are o rings and seals at all of those joints that could be the source of your leak. While checking your lines also make sure they aren't chafing on another hard surface that might be eating them through due to vibration.

-evaporator core- check the evaporator discharge grommet for dye. If it's green and oily, you most likely have an evaporator core leak. This would be worst case scenario, not a fun job. Unfortunately a lot of debris, leaves, twigs, rocks, dirt, and grime find themselves into the evaporator core housing somehow, and with nowhere to go they just pile up there and start to compact and retain moisture until they either rust out the welds in the core, or the difference in expansion and contraction temperatures from the areas with and without debris warps the core and a crack develops. I've attached a picture of what an evaporator core in these conditions will look like when removed vs a new one.

- AC compressor- compressors can leak not only from the rear where the lines go, but the case itself can leak, and the seal in the driveshaft behind the clutch can also leak. My truck recently kept loosing refrigerant very slowly and I couldn't see a leak anywhere. Finally ended up taking off the clutch and found the center of the compressor all green and oily.

Lucky for you, based on the very short time it took for your ac to blow hot again, you've most likely got a very large leak, that is most likely accompanied by a very large green spot of dye. Also lucky for you, most evaporator core leaks are very slow leaks, so you might have lucked out there.

If you have a shop check your pressures and they determine there is no leak, then you may have to start looking into electrical issues, bad switches, bad compressor etc.

Best of luck to ya!

Deve
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95C1500

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It was well worth the $60 diagnostic fee to have a shop tell me what was wrong with it. They said it could potentially cost $4500 to fix (due to my "rusty" truck... bullshit) so I laughed and am about to drop $700 for parts and spent a day out of my weekend replacing the entire system.
 

VortecBurb

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I had to do the front ac on my 99 burb. First time I ever replaced an AC and the thing I learned is get the small cans of 2 oz oil with 1 oz of R134 just screws right into the vacuum line Can't remember which oil GM requires but you can get em at the regular parts store and the tool that screws into the can and screws into the vacuum gauge manifold works well with a scale to measure out the amount not sure how much a 95 truck requires either.

I cut through the hvac box with a hot knife to get to the evaporator out instead of taking out the dash. had to saw through the support bar and weld it back but saved alot of time.
I tried to keep from cutting up the bottom of the hvac box you can see the shape of the evaporator core once you take out the glove box. I just used hot glue and RTV to seal it back up doesn't leak saved me $$$$.
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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am about to drop $700 for parts and spent a day out of my weekend replacing the entire system.

Check to make sure your new compressor has oil in it. If it doesn't have any you need to add some (2 - 4oz) and manually turn it to lubricate the pump before you even charge the system and start the engine.
 

Ken K

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If you can access some A/C equipment, go purchase a 1 oz bottle of A/C leak dye, install in the larger suction line thru fitting, but only 1/4oz. A 1oz. bottle will do 4 vehicles. It needs to be placed into a vacuum and checked to see if it holds it. This is where gauges and a vacuum pump comes in. But, if you have the short round compressor, (Radial 4) you need gm type oil of a 125 viscosity as that is for retro fits if R12 when new. 100 viscosity if OEM.
After 2000, each vehicle comes with UV leak dye in the system from the accumulators dye pack and now uses a low viscosity oil of 40. New leak dye compounds can be seen with a flash light, but UV light better. It will be bright yellow. Don't forget to check the bottom the evaporator case as if leak is in the evaporation core, it will drip out condensate drain hole.
Seems like the mid 90's, GM switched to R134a and comes with barrier hoses usually mark with "GoodYear" if still readable. I don't remember the year as it's mostly a blur now. The R134a is a smaller molecule and will leak out fitting and rubber R12 hose. Barrier hose has a plastic type inner liner hose, with reinforced rubber on top of it.
Note: If you have a local hydraulic repair store nearby, you can purchase barrier hose and they can replace them on the same fittings but with new crimp ferrules.
 

bugdewde

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I cut through the hvac box with a hot knife to get to the evaporator out instead of taking out the dash. had to saw through the support bar and weld it back but saved alot of time.
........

Very interesting.... Got pics of the cuts?
Wonder if that could be done to access the flapping blend doors, etc.....???
 

Ken K

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I cut through the hvac box with a hot knife to get to the evaporator out instead of taking out the dash. had to saw through the support bar and weld it back but saved alot of time.
I tried to keep from cutting up the bottom of the hvac box you can see the shape of the evaporator core once you take out the glove box. I just used hot glue and RTV to seal it back up

Wow, never saw that in the service manual! Are you dripping condensate on the floor yet? Will you tell the next guy that buys it? AuhhhH hot knife use, #312 (signing wood projects, fitting Ninja's w/long cord, A/C Evap R&R, Melting toys together, Opening Ketchup bottles, A/C work, etc.)
 

VortecBurb

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Wow, never saw that in the service manual! Are you dripping condensate on the floor yet? Will you tell the next guy that buys it? AuhhhH hot knife use, #312 (signing wood projects, fitting Ninja's w/long cord, A/C Evap R&R, Melting toys together, Opening Ketchup bottles, A/C work, etc.)

I made sure not to cut through the bottom and I sealed the sides back up with RTV and it doesn't leak and I live in the south and it is crazy humid. I don't plan on ever selling the suburban but yea I would show em if I'm able. I just didn't have 4 weekends to spare to take out the dash or room for all the parts. There's a video of a guy on youtube that did the same thing on an earlier model and another video of a guy that did the whole dash removal process and I just watched that to pickup on where it was located and how it was fastened. For the time it saved me I figured it was worth the risk. I know you can cut out for the blend doors on the Grand Cherokees but I haven't had to do mine yet.
 
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