I kind of want a 3/4 ton...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

letitsnow

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
1,684
Reaction score
2,463
Location
MN
I have been searching for 2 days... within 200 miles, I can't find ANYTHING that doesn't have 270k miles and has been beat to death, or the seller isn't asking a platinum price.

I asked one to send me a pic of the sticker with the RPO codes on it and she thought I was a scammer... *bang head*

Just for reference. I paid $3100 for my '99 k2500. New motor, mpfi, bb pc, disc brake conversion, true dual exhaust, new brake lines and prop valve, other stuff I am forgetting - The parts alone were around $4500. I did all labor myself, which was a lot. Many hours of rust repair/preventative maintenance, which is crappy work. So... I have around $7600 (not including labor) into a truck that has some rust, many new parts, but the trans/transfer case etc still have 220,000 miles without being rebuilt.

Not sure what you are seeing for prices, but the parts add up quickly, if you want to make one of these decent. A new 3/4 ton truck is $50,000+ though, that is how I justify it.
 

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
12,789
Reaction score
15,651
I believe you are right, I am pretty sure the 1 ton frame is a little bit thicker than a 3/4 ton.

My observations would disagree with this notion. My 1500 is a smidge under 3/16" thick, extended cab dually that I junked was 1/4" thick, and my crew cab dually is 5/16" thick as was the frame donor at the junkyard which was a crew cab long bed. Unsure if that was a 2500 or 3500. Right now my guess is that an 8 lug gets you a 1/4" frame and a long wheel base crew cab long bed gets you the 5/16" option, regardless of 2500 or 3500. The only thing I have yet to measure is a short wheelbase 8 lug frame and a crew cab short bed frame. AFAIK all 8 lugs get those gussets for both ends of the rear leaf springs.
 

east302

I'm Awesome
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
3,437
Reaction score
3,159
Location
Jackson, MS
Easy solution... Keep the 1500, and buy a 2500 in addition. Join the multiple GMT400 club. :lol:

Keep the truck, get a 454 K2500 Burb with the 4.10 and it’s ideal for hauling the family and their stuff. Best of both worlds!

You must be registered for see images attach


Love the way this thing looks...

http://www.mcsmk8.com/99-SUB/99-SUB.html




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jared Jackson

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
783
Reaction score
377
Location
East Texas
I don't understand what you mean by "that much truck". Physical size is the same but you get forged A arms, bigger brakes (a lot come with hydroboost) full floating rear end and heavier springs. These are simply stronger components and therefore rated to carry more. I could be wrong but I believe that the frame is also stronger. The difference between a 1500 and a 8 lug 2500 is huge but 8 lug 2500 to 3500 is minimal until you upgrade that camper and your over CGVWR and have to start over with yet another truck.

When I hear 1 ton, I think DRW so that’s what pops in my head. Sorry if that made it confusing (I realize 3500’s can be SRW)

You guys just have to know me personally, and you don’t. I am picky as ****. I want to find that low mile cream puff that some old guy drove to church. It’s tough, but I know they still exist.
 

Jared Jackson

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
783
Reaction score
377
Location
East Texas
Just for reference. I paid $3100 for my '99 k2500. New motor, mpfi, bb pc, disc brake conversion, true dual exhaust, new brake lines and prop valve, other stuff I am forgetting - The parts alone were around $4500. I did all labor myself, which was a lot. Many hours of rust repair/preventative maintenance, which is crappy work. So... I have around $7600 (not including labor) into a truck that has some rust, many new parts, but the trans/transfer case etc still have 220,000 miles without being rebuilt.

Not sure what you are seeing for prices, but the parts add up quickly, if you want to make one of these decent. A new 3/4 ton truck is $50,000+ though, that is how I justify it.

I would spend 10-15k if it was the right truck. Money isn’t really an issue. I could get a new truck, but I just like the gmt400 gmt800 trucks!
 

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
12,789
Reaction score
15,651
When I hear 1 ton, I think DRW so that’s what pops in my head. Sorry if that made it confusing (I realize 3500’s can be SRW)

You guys just have to know me personally, and you don’t. I am picky as ****. I want to find that low mile cream puff that some old guy drove to church. It’s tough, but I know they still exist.

I totally get it. That mode takes time and patience. Lots and lots of both. Or damned good luck.
 

SuperTramp

Preparing truck & camper for N. American trek
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
145
Reaction score
51
Location
Mississippi
I added Firestone airbags to my ‘98 K2500 (8-lug) and it resulted in a smoother ride with 15 lbs psi and empty truck and a more stable ride with 50 lbs psi in bags when hauling my 1600 lbs. truck bed camper.
 

SuperTramp

Preparing truck & camper for N. American trek
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
145
Reaction score
51
Location
Mississippi
FYI. I bought My 1998 K2500 5.7 4x4 extended cab (2-door) with 140k miles for $4k 2 years ago. No rust. I just replaced front end and steering box for $1900, parts and labor. This ones a keeper for me.
 
Top