Head gasket replacement 1998 K2500

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TommyJ1980

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You could just crank the starter to see if compression builds up, and conferm if gauge is good.
So I actually took the first one back this afternoon thinking that was the problem and got a replacement. I did get it to move a bit by sticking it up again the part on the tire where the air goes in.
 

TommyJ1980

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What what I’ve been reading it possible to stick a screwdriver into the hole where the distributor goes and turn the slot a little bit so it lines up perfectly with the distributor before it goes back in? It would be hard to see though, I don’t know if I’d be able to see straight down into it.
 

Hipster

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Bought a new distributor with a lifetime warranty. Tried to put it in and had some problems getting it to slide in, now I’m back trying to find TDC compression again. Got this compression tester plugged into cylinder #1 and it’s reading zero the whole time as I’m turning the crank pulley, not showing any pressure at all. It starts at 30psi, I would think I’d get at least a little bit of a reading as it came around to TDC. Tried feeling airflow and can’t, not sure what I’m missing here…
you need faster than cranking by hand for a compression test(starter), and you also need to hold throttle plates open while cranking to get accurate readings.
 

Hipster

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What what I’ve been reading it possible to stick a screwdriver into the hole where the distributor goes and turn the slot a little bit so it lines up perfectly with the distributor before it goes back in? It would be hard to see though, I don’t know if I’d be able to see straight down into it.
in a truck pretty much have to climb up on the engine and look down the hole with a flashlight. I still do it that way quite often instead of bumping the key and being on the wrong tooth. Not so much for stock stuff but on high rpm stuff one tooth off and distributor phasing matters.
 

Piratehunter

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So take drivers side valve cover off, turn the engine over by hand, watching the #1 intake valve open and then shut, continue to rotate the engine until the timing mark comes around and lines up with the timing cover pointer. TDC #1. Then use the long screwdriver to get the oil pump shaft inline with distributor, kind of trial and error, to drop in. Putting a mark down screwdriver handle in line with the screwdriver blade will help you see where the alignment is.
 
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Just Nobody

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I have a 12-14'' long flat blade screwdriver (Fuller) that I scribed a line with hacksaw blade , top of handle, to match the flat edge of screw driver blade. I use this to line up the oil pump slot. You can do it by feel ,if you know what to feel for, instead of looking through the distributor hole. I also wrap hockey tape around to improve greasy hand grip.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Got this compression tester plugged into cylinder #1 and it’s reading zero the whole time as I’m turning the crank pulley, not showing any pressure at all. It starts at 30psi, I would think I’d get at least a little bit of a reading as it came around to TDC. Tried feeling airflow and can’t, not sure what I’m missing here…
Do you have your lifter pre-load adjusted properly?
 

TommyJ1980

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So take drivers side valve cover off, turn the engine over by hand, watching the #1 intake valve open and then shut, continue to rotate the engine until the timing mark comes around and lines up with the timing cover pointer. TDC #1. Then use the long screwdriver to get the oil pump shaft inline with distributor, kind of trial and error, to drop in. Putting a mark down screwdriver handle in line with the screwdriver blade will help you see where the alignment is.
Yeah it just sucks because this was supposed to be one of the last couple steps, now I'm gonna have to go back and take all this **** apart again to get the cover off. I guess it's not too much but I know I have to get this right or it won't start. Thanks for the guidance, I'll be doing it this evening.
 
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