Head gasket replacement 1998 K2500

[TommyJ1980]

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[TommyJ1980]

Ended up with an extra plug here, hmm...coolant temp ground, but this extra plug, not sure.

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[TommyJ1980]

(the top one, not the blue coolant temp sensor.

 

[east302]

Ended up with an extra plug here, hmm...coolant temp ground, but this extra plug, not sure.

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Maybe the EGR valve, the ground next to it would go on the thermostat bolt.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

So it did work it, once the new pulley went on it lined up perfectly. I tried a makeshift tool and got it on about halfway but finally gave up and went over and rented a pulley remover and replacer kit, and it made short work of it. At this point the belt is back on and everything looks good. I also checked out the bolts on the water jacket of the water pump, they were nice and tight. Was wondering if loctite, either color, would work in place of the aviation permatex you referenced?

I wouldn't use loctite on those bolts.

 

[east302]

Update - whew, what a day. At this point, I have it mostly assembled, the milkshake oil has been cleaned out of the top of the engine by hand, and the oil pan drained. I kept both of the batteries on a trickle charger while I was doing this, and they are ready to go. I was really hoping to drive it to work tomorrow, but ultimately was thwarted by the exhaust gaskets, and will be taking the Volvo with a chicken sticker on the back to work instead. If you have any tricks for lining up the heavy-ass exhaust while trying to thread the bolts through the gasket, I would absolutely be grateful to hear.

I also wanted to thank the folks again who have taken the time to share their advice. For this repair, I have been going as hard as I can to put this thing back into service, and trying not to compromise quality of my work in the process, so that's always a balance. Overall I feel good about my work, but the proof will be in the pudding.

One more thing - the repair video I've been watching by A-one auto had me put the engine in TDC compression at this beginning, then while adjusting the valves, I turned the crank pulley ONE time, in order to adjust the second set of valves and take up the lash in the pushrods. My question is this - when I took the distributor out, the guy seemed to make a big deal about the engine being in TDC compression, and I assumed it would stay that way until the distributor was replaced, however, now due to the instructions on valve adjustment, cylinder number one is in TDC exhaust. I just replaced the distributor and lined up the rotor with the "8" pointing to the notch, and the flat part lined up with the back of the engine, but I just wasn't sure if that was an oversight having the cylinder in a different part of the cycle than when the distributor was initially removed, and I don't want to be in a position where I'm gonna screw up the engine while starting it, because the distributor is in the wrong position? Appreciate any thoughts you'd have on this.

Thanks again,

Tommy
Longview, WA

The rotor will point to the 8 triangle when at TDC compression and toward the firewall on exhaust. It sounds like you stabbed it when on exhaust, so rotate it back around to align the balancer line with the timing cover notch to get back to TDC compression. Then set the distributor in - rotor pointing to the 8 when it seats.

Do you have a scanner to adjust the CMP retard? Spec is zero degrees (+/- 2) at 1000 rpm.

On the exhaust manifold, the gaskets usually have open-ended “hook” tabs on the ends. Get the outermost bolts started and then drop the gasket in, letting the hooks rest on the bolts. That should line it up and make it easier.

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[east302]

I wouldn't use loctite on those bolts.

GM specs thread sealant 12346004. Permatex cross-references that as their “high temperature thread sealant” in the red package.

https://permatex.com.ua/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Permatex-OEM.pdf

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[TommyJ1980]

The rotor will point to the 8 triangle when at TDC compression and toward the firewall on exhaust. It sounds like you stabbed it when on exhaust, so rotate it back around to align the balancer line with the timing cover notch to get back to TDC compression. Then set the distributor in - rotor pointing to the 8 when it seats.

Do you have a scanner to adjust the CMP retard? Spec is zero degrees (+/- 2) at 1000 rpm.

On the exhaust manifold, the gaskets usually have open-ended “hook” tabs on the ends. Get the outermost bolts started and then drop the gasket in, letting the hooks rest on the bolts. That should line it up and make it easier.

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Thank you!! I do have a scan tool, just need to learn how to use it, it's still in the box.

 

[TommyJ1980]

Bought a new distributor with a lifetime warranty. Tried to put it in and had some problems getting it to slide in, now I’m back trying to find TDC compression again. Got this compression tester plugged into cylinder #1 and it’s reading zero the whole time as I’m turning the crank pulley, not showing any pressure at all. It starts at 30psi, I would think I’d get at least a little bit of a reading as it came around to TDC. Tried feeling airflow and can’t, not sure what I’m missing here…

 

[Just Nobody]

You could just crank the starter to see if compression builds up, and conferm if gauge is good.