Head gasket replacement 1998 K2500

[TommyJ1980]

Man it just seems like the closer I get to finishing this the more trouble have. I haven’t been able to find hardly anything to show exactly which spark plug wires go to which plug. I know the firing order for this engine, and I kept the wires in the same place on the cap as when I took it out of the truck initially, and there’s no way the wire I had on where the chart says #3 comes off is long enough to reach over to cylinder #3. The video I watched for a guide to this job in the first place, the guys doesn’t talk about firing order at all, it would appear he just plugs them all in a row from the cap down to the corresponding plug on that same side. Plus all the videos I’ve searched have a round distributor cap and mine has rows down one side and the other. Any advice on how to route these correctly? I stabbed the distributor on TDC, no idea if compression or exhaust, we’ll find out. Tried to take a suggestion of drilling out a spark plug and put a balloon on the end to see when air came out of cylinder #1, and broke four drill bits so I’m done with that. Is this just totally gonna destroy this motor if I start it 180 degrees off? It’s a non interference motor so…

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

The round cap distributor is the TBI engine, what you have (the flat cap) is a Vortec. The flat cap is set up so that the wires for the left/driver's side bank(odd numbers 1-3-5-7) come out of the cap on that side, and the right/passenger side bank(even numbers 2-4-6-8) come out on that side. Works well as long as the cylinders that are adjacent don't try to fire at the same time. This is why the wire looms the factory installed, need to be used if they're still there. As the trucks age, and the wires sag, you may need to add some separators. I'm looking at doing this on my truck, because sometimes when it gets warmed up, there's a random misfire that creates a rough idle condition. I'm going to start with this, and maybe replace the coil too....

 

[TommyJ1980]

The round cap distributor is the TBI engine, what you have (the flat cap) is a Vortec. The flat cap is set up so that the wires for the left/driver's side bank(odd numbers 1-3-5-7) come out of the cap on that side, and the right/passenger side bank(even numbers 2-4-6-8) come out on that side. Works well as long as the cylinders that are adjacent don't try to fire at the same time. This is why the wire looms the factory installed, need to be used if they're still there. As the trucks age, and the wires sag, you may need to add some separators. I'm looking at doing this on my truck, because sometimes when it gets warmed up, there's a random misfire that creates a rough idle condition. I'm going to start with this, and maybe replace the coil too....

Thank you, that was the missing piece. Everything I searched was SBC Chevy, 350, etc, never thought to include the vortech part. As far as the looms, the plastic on them was cracking and whatnot, I’ll probably try to route them using them and get them all nice and pretty somehow.

 

[TommyJ1980]

The round cap distributor is the TBI engine, what you have (the flat cap) is a Vortec. The flat cap is set up so that the wires for the left/driver's side bank(odd numbers 1-3-5-7) come out of the cap on that side, and the right/passenger side bank(even numbers 2-4-6-8) come out on that side. Works well as long as the cylinders that are adjacent don't try to fire at the same time. This is why the wire looms the factory installed, need to be used if they're still there. As the trucks age, and the wires sag, you may need to add some separators. I'm looking at doing this on my truck, because sometimes when it gets warmed up, there's a random misfire that creates a rough idle condition. I'm going to start with this, and maybe replace the coil too....

Thanks again

 

[TommyJ1980]

-------SUCCESS-------

Well yesterday was a slog, but finally we broke through. After jacking around with the radiator petcock for a full day, and dumping about 3 gallons of water/coolant through the radiator and into the pan to catch it below, I finally figured out that I was missing the little O-ring on the tip of this style, having forgotten that I had just replaced the radiator about a month ago. Anyways, I had also indeed stabbed the distributor 180 degrees off, and when I attempted starting it last night, it wouldn't catch, and after the second backfire I figured out what was going on. Took it all apart again, took the distributor out, turned the crank pulley one rotation, put it all back, and it fired right up, sweet music to my ears. When I pulled it into that bay it was limping and spewing white smoke. Today, finished up a few other details, filled it the rest of the way with coolant, and took it out for a drive, for about 8 miles. It runs, but definitely has a rough idle, and intermittent missing upon acceleration. I'm sure it's a distributor timing issue, so turning my attention to learn about that. I've heard a few different things, one being that you can just loosen the distributor hold down bracket, and turn it slightly one way or the other till it smooths out, but also that I need to use a scan tool to get it dialed in correctly. I have this new Innova still in the box, so I'll be reading up on how to use it, but it would be nice if all I had to do was turn the distributor a little bit one way or the other, but either way, we'll find out.

I want to once again thank the people that have taken the time to comment on this thread, you have been a huge huge part of the support for this project, and I am indebted to you greatly. Special shout out to Hotwheelburban, and Piratehunter, as well as all the others. Lots of you that even posted one little thing, that happened to be exactly what was needed in the moment. Thank you for getting me back on the road.

T.J.

 

[xXxPARAGONxXx]

Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment (see attachment)

 

[TommyJ1980]

Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment (see attachment)

Sweet, got a break in the rain but the suns still up, heading out to give it a try.

 

[xXxPARAGONxXx]

Sweet, got a break in the rain but the suns still up, heading out to give it a try.

Make sure your scan tool will read CMP retard before you start loosening the distributor, getting dirty, etc. Not all scan tools do.

 

[TommyJ1980]

Make sure your scan tool will read CMP retard before you start loosening the distributor, getting dirty, etc. Not all scan tools do.

Yeah, I don't think this one does, now that I've started reading about it. It did however tell me that I forgot to plug in the MAP sensor, which was causing my rough idle, etc. I googled the code and the symptoms of a failing map sensor, went back and looked at the motor, and sure enough, there it was staring me in the face. Plugged it in, and rough idle gone, really feels nice now, albeit check engine light still on. The fact is, this has all been a huge learning curve, and the part I know least about it this part, knowing how to read a scan tool and diagnose, as well as anything electrical, but I will learn it.

 

[Caman96]

Yeah, I don't think this one does, now that I've started reading about it. It did however tell me that I forgot to plug in the MAP sensor, which was causing my rough idle, etc. I googled the code and the symptoms of a failing map sensor, went back and looked at the motor, and sure enough, there it was staring me in the face. Plugged it in, and rough idle gone, really feels nice now, albeit check engine light still on. The fact is, this has all been a huge learning curve, and the part I know least about it this part, knowing how to read a scan tool and diagnose, as well as anything electrical, but I will learn it.

I bought and returned that same model-useless. It lists certain functions on its own website, I had it connected to my son’s Tacoma, had their Tech on the phone telling me certain functions aren’t available as I’m reading them from website. Seems like the only ones worth it for our trucks are a Tech 2 or Solus Pro. And get what you pay for!