GM 44 or 10 bolt?

[bornchevy]

So I have recently gotten 2 axles for free one being a gm 44 and the other a 10 bolt. Both front axles. I was wondering which one I should put on my truck for SAS. I know people are going to say just go with a D60 and forget about it. But with 60's being 1500 with unknown condition around me it will be a little longer before I am able to build a 60. So my question is what axle that I currently have should I go with? I also have a driver drop NP241 from a suburban that I have already mounted to my transmission (also free) So driver side drop it is.

If I go with the 10 bolt I will be using the flat top from the 44 so I can do crossover steering.

What are your recommendations?

 

[88GMCtruck]

Honestly they are basically the same, strength wise. You don't benefit really one way or the other from either. Flat top knuckles were only available on pre 76.5 Dana 44 axles, after they were all round top as are the 10-bolt.

 

[bornchevy]

Thank you for your input. I know about the difference in the knuckles, that's why I got the 44 so I would have a flat top knuckle. I was looking for one for the 10 bolt already so when I got the 44 I was happy but don't know which axle to run. The 44 is in unknown condition, I haven't looked at it much since i picked it up Sunday afternoon. The 10 bolt I know only has 7,000 miles on it. It came out of my grandpas 89 suburban that caught fire. He pulled the body off the frame and scrapped the body. Wasn't much left that was us full. He had kept the the drive train and chassis and gave it to me a last year.

At this point I just want to get a solid axle under the truck because I'm tired of changing ball joints, and tie rods every 5,000 miles. ( my lower arms and axles are parallel with the ground) And pitman arm and idler arm every 10,000 miles. The pro comp lift I have utilizes a third center link support and the bushings in that don't last very long ether. I believe the lift kit is one of the first designs they had due to the just front crossmember is made up of 4 parts. the drop bracket is 7 pieces total. All of that and I only street drive the truck. I am running 33x12.50r15 Falken a/ts. With the solid axle I am looking to run 35-37's. Nothing bigger. Just for street use.

 

[88GMCtruck]

I would run the 10-bolt since that is the case and just swap the knuckles themselves. I would keep using the spindles/hubs from the 10-bolt as well, the late non flat top 44s and the 10 bolt use a larger bearing than the earlier 44s with flat tops, and i'm willing to bet everything on the 10-bolt is in good shape.

Here is the thread from what I put a D44 under my 88, about 8-9" lift on 35s. http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?945-Tech-88GMCtruck-s-Budget-Solid-Axle-Swap-Build

 

[bornchevy]

So at this point I should just mill, drill, tap the flat top knuckle. Thinking about high steer also. On your front lower control arm mounts did you just cut the mounting ears off and plate them or did you cut out the whole cross member and make your own? Also did you just re position the factory sway bar or did you modify the bar itself and relocate it to work?

 

[88GMCtruck]

So at this point I should just mill, drill, tap the flat top knuckle. Thinking about high steer also. On your front lower control arm mounts did you just cut the mounting ears off and plate them or did you cut out the whole cross member and make your own? Also did you just re position the factory sway bar or did you modify the bar itself and relocate it to work?

It's all in the thread. The crossmember is just modified, basically sectioned and plated the bottom. My anti-sway bar is 100% custom made.

 

[bornchevy]

Have you run the truck without your anti sway bar? I for the knuckles off the 44 gona set them up for machining this weekend possibly. Thank you for the helpful info. 88GMCtruck