Frame behind cab, is this to thin?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ColdRice

Newbie
Joined
Jul 29, 2023
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Location
Maine
Finally got the crossmember off so I can access the area better. It's not as bad as I thought, I'm considering just removing some of the upper and lower c channel and having 3/16" steel welded in. The middle section is still pretty thick from looking at the factory holes.

Using square stock as mentioned to hold it in place while making the cuts if course.

I circled the areas that are thinnest and that I'm considering replacing
 

Attachments

  • 20230803_183641.jpg
    20230803_183641.jpg
    290 KB · Views: 17
  • 20230803_182637.jpg
    20230803_182637.jpg
    158.5 KB · Views: 16
  • 20230803_182630.jpg
    20230803_182630.jpg
    206.7 KB · Views: 17
  • 20230803_182618.jpg
    20230803_182618.jpg
    198.3 KB · Views: 17

CumminsFever

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 4, 2023
Messages
202
Reaction score
480
Location
Pennsylvania
I work at a metal fabrication shop where I have repaired MANY frames that looked much worse than this. If I were repairing your frame, I wouldn't cut out the old metal. I'd simply add 1/8" flat onto it. Grind the areas where you need to weld, go 6-8" past the infected areas, and burn it in. The only time we cut out infected areas is when there is gaping holes or it is just too far gone to attach to. (Toyota frames are popular for this).
It is my opinion that your frame is good enough to just attach new metal to and roll on. I always clean the area good with knotted wire wheel and spray with undercoating when I'm done.
 

ColdRice

Newbie
Joined
Jul 29, 2023
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Location
Maine
I put everything back together and sprayed the whole frame with fluid film for now. My plan is to do what cumminsfever said, just weld new steel over the infected areas. The bed bolts are all new now so I know everything will come apart easy enough when I'm ready. Justkickintires I'd be interested to see what yours looks like. My issue with the slip on piece is removing and reinstalling that welded bed/cab mount. It's tight in that area with the cab still on and I imagine extra fab work would be needed to get it to line up again after adding 3/16" of steel.
 

RichLo

E I E I O
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
3,653
Reaction score
5,663
Location
Wisconsin
Just keep adding metal :)

This is my snow plow truck with around 2-3 tons in the bed 24/7

I dont have any pics of the area you are concerned about but I also welded a few layers of 3/8" flat and angle iron in that area. The first pic is just a thin strap of 1/4" for added insurance.

Dont look too long or you'll see more problems, lol
 

Attachments

  • 20210827_192200.jpg
    20210827_192200.jpg
    424.7 KB · Views: 17
  • 281655-65f1b46297c6e48be8b8412e29bc4f8f.jpg
    281655-65f1b46297c6e48be8b8412e29bc4f8f.jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 17
  • 20210918_134015.jpg
    20210918_134015.jpg
    387.5 KB · Views: 16
Last edited:
Top