First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

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PlayingWithTBI

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Well, Mr Gump, nice job researching! Especially the lower/higher compression pistons. I've seen higher compression holes when 1st running compression on a new rebuild, then it'll drop lower, like #1 and, 150 PSI sounds a lot closer to other 350 TBIs I've seen. :waytogo:

I'd be real interested if those heads actually have different size chambers (reinforces the Chinesium theory, ha ha).
 

jd33173

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Hey Decaff2007,

No doubt you've got me pegged as a wild-eyed perfectionist type with a water-cooled credit card,
but the reality is that I'm a strict pay-as-you-go dude. Being extra careful with my
disposable income allows me to indulge in more than 1 hobby simultaneously.

Sounds like you have about as much excess money to burn as I do. :0) So when it
comes to all things having to do with batteries, having a battery charger at the
homestead *is* the cheapest way to go.

And as long as you stay on top of your battery health, the extra spendy battery
chargers with the 100+ amp boost are simply not necessary. As a matter of fact, my very
first 10/2 amp full manual battery charger I bought from Sears many, many moons ago will *still* get the job done:

(credit: 2/2/2024 eBay auction image -- my similar old soldier is currently BVR in deep storage)
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Currently in the shop my buddy & I have not 1 but 2 chargers available for use. He has a 'newer' Sears charger...but
it's still at least 12 years old. But still works like a champ. Took this action photo this evening:


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Meanwhile, while my original Sears charger was in deep storage, ~4 years ago I left a dome
light on, stranded myself, and was forced to buy my way out of a jam. Ergo, I ended up
with a new Schumacher. Another action photo from this evening:

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The takeaway from these photos?

* Old battery chargers (especially the simple ones) last a long time.
In this space, Used really does = Previously Enjoyed.

* Both chargers agree with each other, no discernible difference in how
well a battery works after being charged by either one.

* Thanks to a no-nonsense super cool local business (Battery World)
all I run are their load-tested 'blem' or '2nd' batteries. Normally these
batteries sat on some store shelf for a year, didn't sell, get returned,
and if they pass a load test after being topped off, they work as
advertised. (Normally $45-$60, the one in the photo was $60.)

Oh yeah, they give me a 12-month performance warranty on these
blem batteries. Been using these for years, and have yet to take
them up on their warranty. FWIW, the 454 in the chore truck has
a 15+ month old blem battery in it, always spins over with intent
and fires in <1 second.

The bottom line? A used flat tappet camshaft? I don't think so.

But how about purchasing a used battery charger? Absolutely.

Food for thought. Keeping it frugal. :)
Old battery chargers for the win! I have an old diehard which has done good srvice for at least 10yrs
 

DeCaff2007

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The new compression test numbers are in.

1. 180
2. 145
3. 150
4. 150
5. 150
6. 150
7. 145
8. 145

Cracking the throttle and putting a battery charger on seems to have made quite the difference. Still very low compression by a lead footed persons standard, but OH, look at where #1 still is.

@Road Trip, I read your entire post. Seems you've solved the one off high compression issue. Very good, sir. Also:

As I've said elsewhere, I don't mind a problem that I can fix...but I hate a mystery. :)

Agreed 100%. IMO, mysteries are alot of wondering and guesswork. My brain wanders off easily enough. I don't need those distractions, as well.

This engine is perfectly fine.

And yet, it's not. I'm still getting occasional backfiring and zero power at part throttle. At WOT throttle, it will stall. My worst fear, however, has been squashed. There's evidently nothing wrong with the valve train.

The new compression test has proved that all of the cylinders are getting compression, therefore all of valves are doing their jobs. I don't see the need for a leak down test because no cylinder is at (or near) zero compression.

In all seriousness, these stupid aluminum heads are about to be pulled in favor of the stock heads. I still have the stock heads and the push rods that went with them. If I do switch over, I'm going to have to set the valves again, but at least I won't have to break in the cam (not pulling the lifters again, just changing out the push rods). I can also still use my Hedman headers, and I can use the factory AC Delco spark again.

My Wife, however, brought up an interesting question the other day. She asked if I'm sure that there's gas in the tank. If the truck is level, the gauge reads just under 1/4. If going up a hill (and struggling, at that), the gauge reads below E. If going slightly downhill, oh look we have just under 3/8 tank! So the answer there is, "Who the Hell knows how much gas is in the tank!"
 

Road Trip

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The new compression test numbers are in.

1. 180
2. 145
3. 150
4. 150
5. 150
6. 150
7. 145
8. 145

Cracking the throttle and putting a battery charger on seems to have made quite the difference. Still very low compression by a lead footed persons standard, but OH, look at where #1 still is.

@Road Trip, I read your entire post. Seems you've solved the one off high compression issue. Very good, sir.

Outstanding DeCaff2007. I genuinely appreciate the fact that you were willing to invest
the extra time & effort to get the cleanest, most accurate mechanical health data that your situation allows. (!)

By doing so, not only does this give us the best chance of running down the remaining issues
and getting your engine swap to run right, it will also show other troubleshooters learning the
ropes how to extract better Situational Awareness in their engine bay.

And here's your latest data arranged per your engine's physical layout:

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The results speak for themselves.

I have a couple more ideas about where to go from here, but I first need to review a few things.

More to follow.

Again, kudos on making the extra effort to get the unvarnished truth out of the engine
and sharing it with the GMT400 community. :waytogo:
 

L31MaxExpress

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I would suspect #1 has something odd with either a lifter or valve adjustment going on. If you have not already done it, running lash adjustment is by far the easiest. Stock type lifter, back it off till it clicks, tighten it until it just stops, then go 1 full turn lash. I suspect #1 intake valve is closing earlier. It is the only way to explain that kind of added pressure.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Greetings @DeCaff2007,

Good news. After reviewing the history of your TBI 350 build, I have pretty
solid answers for the anomalous results of the compression test that you shared.

Sometimes, the more you dig, the fuzzier the big picture becomes. Usually this
happens when the recorded data leading up to the failure is sparse, lacks
the necessary precision, or the data is conflicting. (Due to uncalibrated
test equipment or adherence to procedures.)

This is when I find myself using the SWAG acronym in order to couch my
answer in such a way that you know that my answer is more of an informed
hunch based on similar experiences instead of specific, hard data..

Conversely, sometimes the more you dig the sharper the troubleshooting
big picture becomes. All the individual bits of info start to reinforce each other,
much like when you are piecing together a puzzle & the image starts to become
recognizable.

In a previous life, this was the confidence level required in order to get a
jet, previously grounded due to a serious IFE {In Flight Emergency} to pass
the formal review by the safety board, before they would release the aircraft
and authorize a FCF (Functional Check Flight) to be performed, so that ultimately
the aircraft could be returned to service.

Enough table setting, let's dig in and see what's going on with your 350.

****

First things first. Let's organize your compression test results to match
the physical layout of your engine:

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1) The measured pressure in 6 out of 8 cylinders are nearly identical -- this is *exactly* the desired result of a relative compression test.

The data suggests that the driver's side was tested first, and that the passenger side was
tested afterwards. (On the theory that the battery was discharging, and the test rpm was
starting to fade.)

IF the reverse is true (ie: the passenger side was tested 1st, driver's side 2nd)
the highest probability for these results is a small disagreement in the machined block
deck height from left to right. This is pretty common, and doesn't cause an issue for an
engine working at a normal, stock DD level of tune.

How to prove/disprove the above:

A) Easy: Rerun test on fully charged battery + jumper cables to second (running) vehicle,
which keeps the cranking battery voltage a constant from beginning to end.
B) Easy: Review deck height measurement recorded during assembly. (Straight edge & feeler gauge
is close enough, dial indicator if you have it.)
C) Invasive: Left and Right deck height data was not collected during engine assembly. Remove
cylinder heads and acquire data. Note: Not recommended. The (3) 125 psi readings on the driver's side are
within 5% of the (3) 120 psi readings on the passenger side.

Also, getting results this even on a engine with only ball-honed stock bores on a ~90K mile
block and (7) original stock pistons is actually quite good.

2) In absolute terms, the compression numbers seem to be a bit lower than expected?

The commonly accepted response to this question would be that when running a compression
test the relative results between all the cylinders is key, and the absolute values are to be
taken with a grain of salt, since there are uncontrolled variables introduced during the test.
(Throttles left at idle impeding intake cycle leading to lower absolute compression reading,
what altitude was the test taken, late closing intake valves on performance camshaft, etc.)

But one forum member made the comment that possibly the motor was originally a lower
compression TBI 'HD' motor? I decided to dig a little deeper. Turns out that the light duty
TBI 350 featured 9.25:1 compression & 200hp, whereas the 8600+ GVW rated trucks got the
HD
350 with 8.75:1 compression & 190hp. Here's an older post with some part numbers
& specs: (LD vs HD TBI 350s)

There was also some discussion about sodium-filled exhaust valves, which the HD motors
came with, but I needed more proof about the lower-compression HD theory. Also there was
a photo of the engine showing 4-bolt mains, which (supposedly) were reserved for the HD TBI
350s in the GMT400 production run, so it started to feel like this is what DeCaff2007 was working
with?


Looking closely at DeCaff2007's photo of his assembled short block, I then noticed a piston detail
that I was unfamiliar with:

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I've never seen this in the flesh, and my Google Fu was put to the test.
Finally, after almost admitting defeat, I found a single, solitary SBC devo who put up
a matching photo in a chevy-centric website, and identified these pistons with
the 45° identifying notch as having 18cc dishes in them:

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(Tip of the hat to "1983G20Van" over in the chevytalk.org forum for this 9-year old entry. Reading his stuff it sounded like someone I've
come to know in this forum...and then a photo confirmed my suspicions. :)

This is close enough for me. The compression results for this engine will be
a bit lower than expected due to the 1/2 point compression drop.

3) Why is the number #1 cylinder reading so much higher than the others?

This is the question that initially drove my interest in digging into DeCaff2007's
compression test results. I wasn't following this build until recently, so I was
unfamiliar with how the engine went together. Unfortunately, the engine build documentation
was scattered across at least 8 separate threads, and I was having trouble following
the flow after the fact?

But after I stopped and built a navigational cheat sheet in the form of a timeline, it became easier to
follow along. (See attached.) Sure enough, in reply #19 to the thread "Piston Ring Install Issues"
the original #1 piston was damaged after the assembly got jammed up:
(Original #1 piston no longer serviceable)

After initially focusing on a suspected incompatibility of the bore chamfer vs the original ring compressor,
eventually the root cause was troubleshot to the oil control rings -- more specifically, deep groove vs
shallow groove. (Incorrect diameter oil rings due to incorrect scraper spacing)

And eventually a single replacement piston was sourced on eBay. (Shiny new Standard bore LD piston)
And by now you've guessed the punchline. It's for the TBI 350 put into all the <8600 GVWR GMT400s,
meaning that it has a smaller dish in the piston for that 1/2 point higher compression ratio.

In addition, since it's not a .030" rebuilder piston that normally have a 1.540" compression height (between
wrist-pin and top of piston) it's quite possible that this STD bore piston has the factory-spec 1.560" compression
height, adding even more squish to the mix?

To summarize, the 'higher than the rest' compression reading in the #1 cylinder accurately confirmed
that there *is* a physical difference between the piston in this cylinder vs the other 7.

Since I hadn't been following the build at the time, I was completely unaware of this going into this
compression test analysis, so I thought that it was pretty cool that the compression test had
enough resolution to make the 'unique to this build' artifact stand out.

Recommendation: If the engine runs quietly and there's no adverse tolerance stack up
in hole #1, run it as-is.

Since the majority of the 350 TBI motors out there run with 8 of these higher compression pistons,
this should not cause any issues in normal service. The possibility exists that the #1 cylinder
in this engine will be the first one to give the knock sensor something to listen to, but that's
why the design engineers put this error-correcting spark timing feedback loop on the engine block
in the first place?

In English, the total timing for all 8 cylinders *may* or may not be set by this cylinder, but again
in normal service this will be a non-issue anyway. Keep it cool and no problemo!

4) What about the slightly higher reading in cylinder #8? What does it mean, if anything?
Is this of any consequence in the big scheme of things?


In all the data above, I have confidence in the observed data and conclusions. But on
this one I am going to have to label it as a SWAG.
In order to prove/disprove the following,
we would have to CC the combustion chambers of the aftermarket Flotek aluminum
cylinder heads...since the #8 piston looked to be one of the originals.

About the only thing I can dream up is what I am going to call the 'left hand' rule. That is,
what if this batch of Flotek castings has a single, slightly smaller combustion chamber than
the other 3, and this smaller chamber is the one closest to my left hand as I install the
head on the block?

On the driver's side, this smaller chamber would be on the #1 cylinder.

And on the passenger side, this same chamber that's closest to my left hand would end
up over the #8 cylinder. But I caution that this is pure conjecture on my part, until
such time as the cylinder heads were pulled and the chambers carefully CC'd.
Note: Not Recommended, for cylinder #8 currently measures well within reason.

****

Well, I don't expect very many people to still be reading this. But that's alright. You see,
I actually have more confidence in what a carefully done compression test can tell me about
a motor that's new to me than the average motorhead. And if you take it a step further and
proceed to perform a leak-down test on the outliers, you can really get actionable info from that.

But the vast, vast majority of the time we go for a leakdown test is because the compression is
way off in a cylinder or two, as in closer to zero than all the others. Having one cylinder
stand out because it has appreciably more squish than the other 7 was really unusual...and that's
why I decided to dig until I uncovered the root cause. As I've said elsewhere, I don't mind
a problem that I can fix...but I hate a mystery. :)

And if you consider yourself a student of engine building, if you weren't already doing so, you
can now justify making the following measurements while performing your 'trial assembly':

* Deck Height (for quench)
* Compression height (stock vs .020" less for non-blueprint rebuild slugs)
* CC'ing the combustion chambers (ideally they all match for the smoothest possible operation.)

****

Summary:

* This engine is perfectly fine. 6 cylinders are working as brand new. The 2 other cylinders
are bringing even a little more to the party than the others -- think of them as overachievers.
Assuming that the inside of the engine was cleaned enough after the 1st camshaft failure,
once the valvetrain gets the 'lash' (preload) dialed in for all 16 valves, this should be just
fine in front of that 5-speed manual.

To close this out, here I will paste some common-sense recommendations from an article on
this subject:


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"That's all I've got to say about that." - F. 'Road Trip' Gump

Only problem I see with that is those 18cc dished have a long bathtub shape relief that goes all the way through both valve reliefs. I do not see that additional material removed on his pistons.
 

Road Trip

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Only problem I see with that is those 18cc dished have a long bathtub shape relief that goes all the way through both valve reliefs. I do not see that additional material removed on his pistons.

I saw the same thing. But on the other hand your photo was the *only* one I could find
where that second 45° notch was showing? And I looked at literally hundreds of piston
photos after using all kinds of different search phrases? Is it possible that what we're
seeing is a detail difference after a revision change?

One issue that I encountered is that there are countless webpages devoted to the DZ302,
but on the other hand very few people have shared any photos of the inside of a TBI HD 350
truck motor?

****

As for the possibility that the valve lash (preload) being out of adjustment, I agree. That's what
I was going to go off and look for the best example of how to check/correct and report back.
Myself, working with solid lifters (flat tappet or roller) I find it *so easy* to repeatably get exactly
the lash that I'm looking for.

But when it comes to hydraulic lifters, I'll pull the dizzy, put a helper on a speed handle (or drill) on the oil pump,
get 40+ lbs of pressure showing on a mechanical oil pressure gauge, spin the motor by hand a couple
of revolutions (in order to give all 16 lifters a chance to pump up) ...and then try to set the lash
by sight (preferable) or by feel. (hit or miss for me, YMMV)

But even with all that rigamarole I usually don't get the desired results until I perform a hot-idle
final lash adjustment like you described. The hot lash setting seems to be the *only* way I
get a hydraulic lifter-equipped engine to run as well as a solid lifter motor with the same/similar cam specs.

And if you take into account all the issues to date with this build in this specific area, I concur with your
theory.

More in a moment.

Cheers --
 
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Schurkey

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Looking closely at DeCaff2007's photo of his assembled short block, I then noticed a piston detail
that I was unfamiliar with:
Outstanding detective work. Never occurred to me that he could have an incompatible piston.


The "best" way to set hydraulic lifter preload ONCE and DONE is to do it with the intake manifold removed, so you can visually confirm the lifter plunger preload. Easy enough during engine assembly. Not so fun once it's installed and running. No need to pump up the lifters, either--although I do that with a pump-oiler filled with ATF before the lifters are installed so that I can verify they will pump up, have acceptable leakdown rate, and will pass oil through to the pushrod socket.
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Note that once the lifters have been filled with oil, a person has to be careful when setting preload to allow enough time for the lifter to bleed-down.
 

Road Trip

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I would suspect #1 has something odd with either a lifter or valve adjustment going on. If you have not already done it, running lash adjustment is by far the easiest.

When you wrote this I *knew* that we are on the same page. No other method gives
me the same long-lasting, no premature valve float upstairs, weird idle issues that we finally
track down to 'too much preload' x higher than expected oil pressure {cold oil} that
causes just enough valve unseating to rough up the idle...and then of course the
symptoms disappear when the engine warms up and the idle oil pressure drops, yada yada yada.

(Maybe because over the years I've kinda become the old dog motorhead of last resort in
my local ecosystem, I seem to have encountered way more than my fair share of engine
misbehavior tracked down to goofy valvetrain maladjustments. :0)

...but I digress. Over in @DeCaff2007's "Correctly Setting Valve Lash" thread, Sweden's resident
GMT400 ambassador (@1990Z71Swede) linked to a short, concise, complete with *good* audio,
demo of a hot/running lash adjustment on a SBC. The only strangeness was was that the link
said something about the video no longer being allowed to run off of the YouTube reservation?
{EDIT: New behavior. Just click on the "Watch on YouTube" phrase below.}

Anyway, here's the link that I think Decaff should watch/listen to carefully:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

As a matter of fact, I used to perform my running lash adjustment *exactly*
the same way he's doing it. But I really didn't like the rough running (while
actually adding the preload right after the clatter goes away), giving it a little
gas to compensate, the rpm jumps, the oil starts flinging...arrrrrghhh!

Some time later, I read somewhere of an even better way to do this.
Go through all 16 valves, one a time, back them off until they clatter, and
then tighten each one just until it's quiet. Move to the next, repeat the
same thing, until all 16 are done. Engine stays smooth, zero adjustment drama.

Shut the engine off.

NOW set the preload on all 16 to whatever your preferred value is. (I favor
a quarter-turn for myself & my buddies, 1/2 turn for a customer's DD, etc.)

Upon restart, the engine should will continue to be as perfectly smooth
and quiet as it was pre-shutdown, especially if you give it a few moments
for all the lifters to bleed down to their new setting. It's like magic.

What can I say? If you have no choice but to run hydraulic lifters in a
pushrod V8, this is the only way I've found to get it really right.

And the cost? A pair of junk tin valve covers at the local Treasure Yard.

(Oops -- just got notified that Schurkey has posted a reply. Absolutely no
doubt that he has a different yet equally valid technique to get the valves
set up for success. It's like an All U Can Eat adjustment buffet. Choose the
method that appeals to you most & run with it.)

The bottom line? When I'm working with my preferred medium (ie: solid lifters)
I can get exactly what I want with a set of feeler gauges and a breaker bar
on the front crank snout.

But when I'm forced to sort out hydraulic lifters, if I'm under the hood with
you we're eventually going to end up with a pair of cheap cut-up valve covers
and doing a running valve lash adjustment. And with any luck, a smooth, quiet
engine to take us out to a victory meal of extra spicy Thai food. ;0)

This is a good discussion. As evidenced by the trouble that our OP has had
in this area, getting a good valvetrain adjustment is one of the harder things
to get right for the everyday otherwise well-adjusted GMT400 enthusiast.

Cheers --
 
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Road Trip

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Re: Running valvetrain solid lash/hydraulic preload adjustment

Anybody remember using these? I can still hear them clinking away:

Rocker Arm Oil Deflector Clips

Helps keep the oil in the motor and off the garage walls in case you
forget about the convertible valve covers and you blip the throttle
on pure muscle memory. Ask me how I know this. :)

Also, if for some reason you can't find your clips (or they don't fit on
your new Jesel go-faster bits) then in an emergency I find that little
bits of HD aluminum foil liberated from the kitchen cabinet and wrapped
over the oil shooter holes in the top of the rocker arms will do a
surprisingly good job of keeping the slippery stuff headed back to
the oil pan instead giving your workspace a dinosaur juice tattooing.

FWIW --
 
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