Intermittent bogging while driving...

[movietvet]

Remove all the bed bolts except 1, loosen it. Disconnect the fill and tail lights, tilt the bed so you can get to the top of the tank, and prop it up with a 2X4 or something.

Depending on how much time that truck spent in salt on the roads Maryland, those bed bolts may be pretty fun.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Depending on how much time that truck spent in salt on the roads Maryland, those bed bolts may be pretty fun.

Then the tank straps will too, LOL.

 

[movietvet]

Then the tank straps will too, LOL.

Agreed. What better time to install new straps and get your "drilling out bolts" practice in?

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Then the tank straps will too, LOL.

Oh ya..... definitely have new ones ready to go....ask me how I know!!!! Lol

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

What better time to install new straps and get your "drilling out bolts" practice in?

yeah, I'd rather use a cut-off wheel on the bed bolts than the tank

 

[Ole Bessie]

I am a little confused. You are willing to install a whole different motor, and you have replaced the fuel filter and IT GOT BETTER and you have yet to get a fuel pressure reading, at idle and while driving. A clogged fuel filter likely over worked the fuel pump and when you changed the filter, that pump breathed for a while and then the problem popped up again. 10 motors later, you still have the same old fuel delivery. I would rather drop a tank and install a fuel pump than swap out a motor, unless of course the motor is actually needed.

C'mon man. Get the fuel pressure readings and post here. That fuel pump change dread is because of the rust, right?

By the way, welcome to the forum from Oregon. By the way, move from Maryland to Utah was smart.

Only willing to replace motor since original has 240k and just wanted to freshen it up so it’ll last .along with my fairly fresh rebuilt trans.

I guess once I get the new exhaust manifold bolts in I’ll drive it until it’s in empty then drop the tank and replace the fuel pump. Truck spent its life in Virginia and has a decent amount of surface rust on it but I have a feeling some of the bolts might break. Maybe if I use enough PB Blaster I’ll save myself some headache with them breaking. I guess I’ll update once I tackle that.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Only willing to replace motor since original has 240k and just wanted to freshen it up so it’ll last .along with my fairly fresh rebuilt trans.

I guess once I get the new exhaust manifold bolts in I’ll drive it until it’s in empty then drop the tank and replace the fuel pump. Truck spent its life in Virginia and has a decent amount of surface rust on it but I have a feeling some of the bolts might break. Maybe if I use enough PB Blaster I’ll save myself some headache with them breaking. I guess I’ll update once I tackle that.

If your going to drop the tank, definitely have new straps on standby. You will thank is later. Can always return them if by some miracle the bolts don't snap on you.
And as a tip, pre bend the new ones as close to shape as possible.....saves some skin and strings of four letter words from spewing out.

 

[movietvet]

Gonna get a fuel pressure test or throw parts at it?

 

[Ole Bessie]

Gonna get a fuel pressure test or throw parts at it?

Ordered a fuel pressure gauge last night. I'll try and mount it up so I can see it while driving so I can see if that's really the issue. If it's not I'm thinking something electrical with the ignition.

 

[movietvet]

Ordered a fuel pressure gauge last night. I'll try and mount it up so I can see it while driving so I can see if that's really the issue. If it's not I'm thinking something electrical with the ignition.

Have a long enough hose/coupler attached to the gauge and snake out the back of the hood and tape to w/s. When you do this, do a cold start and watch, let it warm up and watch, drive it under different load conditions and watch and then shut off and watch to see if the pressure bleeds off.