Extending the range of your truck's keyless entry, via the module.

[Usernameisusername]

I did 8'. It still works good. I think on another thread or forum I got into it with someone else saying "That doesn't work!" So I ended up doing the math and derivatives of 1m lengths that isn't shielded I think is what you need... Which is why I went with 8' since 2 or so would be covered under the dash. That gives you about 6' (about 2m) unshielded and in the open.

10/10 would do it again. If it gets weak, it's your remote.

The auto-roll-down mod is still on the back-burner. I have plenty of other projects and things to do.

What remote are you using? eBay or stock? I just finished running my wire through A frame and nothing has changed.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

What remote are you using? eBay or stock? I just finished running my wire through A frame and nothing has changed.

Did you use unshielded wire?

 

[Mangonesailor]

What remote are you using? eBay or stock? I just finished running my wire through A frame and nothing has changed.

Stock remote

 

[Usernameisusername]

Did you use unshielded wire?

I bought this.

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[SUBURBAN5]

I bought this.

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I was under the impression it had to be unshielded. Meaning copper wire. Gonna have to see what @Mangonesailor recommends. I also want to do this mod eventually

 

[Mangonesailor]

That tinned wire would be perfect. It's just easier to solder if it's pretinned. It'll work just fine.

I think my remote is starting to mess up. My range has started to dwindle to 40', no as good as it used to be. Put a new battery in and it's still not great.

 

[chevychit]

Science says that holding the keyfob to your head or chin uses your fluid filled noggin like an antenna and boosts it's range. Just going to throw this out there! lol

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I aware of the time this post has covered but it is still very useful and appreciated, I have been so disappointed in my 96 c1500 fob that I have become used to it. I been taught by a good fellow wrench who told me that under the chin doubles the range,, I laugh about it every time but , it freaking works...frfr...lol...thanks Murdock Malone. U are a friend and I get a kick out of it still ,,, years later.. but I really am glad to hear you have figured out how to get decent range ,, I'm rambling....

 

[jgraham]

Hello gentlemen,

A lot of us have gone through our fobs looking to gain an extra few feet of range to unlock the doors of our trucks. I did the mod myself to my fob, and found it barely did any good at all. So, for a couple of years I've been putting this off, but I got this done in about an hour. Its stupid simple.

First, any keyless entry module from a Pickup to a 'Burban is the same. (Bonus info at the bottom)

So, lets mod our module:

Tools:
Soldering gun
Solder/flux
15mm socket w/ short extension and ratchet
9/32" socket
1/8" drill bit
8' or so of 22ga wire
small flat blade screwdriver


First off, it is attached to the steering column support on the passenger side behind a black plate. Its held on with 3 screws. The screw most-forward can stay threaded in as the plate slides in between the bolt head and frame.

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Lift up the rear, slide it toward the rear, and down it comes. You'll need your screwdriver to remove the retainer tab so you can take the module out (not pictured).

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There are two tabs on one end of the module. Unclip them and the clamshell will open. The guts will then slide right out. You'll see a wire in the shape of a "w" (Or an "m", or whatever). Look for where it terminates on the board.

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Solder about 8" of wire to this point.

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Drill a hole in the shell with the connector boss. This is where you will feed your wire through.

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At this point, you can install your module again. Route the rest of your wire either into the upper portion of the dash, or into the A-pillar and into the headlinder. I voted headliner.

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All that's left is to connect your two runs of wire under the dash and your DONE! Enjoy it!


BONUS INFO!

So, I was curious why there would be 3 relays on the board and what they powered. After digging around in my shop manual it turns out that all modules have the function to actuate a rear hatch release or door lock. So, in the future I will be adding auto-up/down modules to my pickup. I will try to figure out how to use the entry module's rear hatch output to roll down my truck's windows then.

So take a look:
The module on top is my OE module, the one on the bottom was my test mule. The mule came from a 'burban but I noticed that the guts of them both are the exact same.

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The connector has provisions to wire a terminal to the module's output pin.

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For those that are all about that factory look, here's the corresponding place that wire goes.

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Stay tuned for more!

Awesome info! Thank you for sharing in such detail.