Engine Temp Switch

[name]

I just installed another unit and started the vehicle with the remote start. the remote start is set to turn of in 15 min, before the remote start turned itself off the new switch failed in the same manner as the last two. I installed the one with a regular deep well socket, and this one with a spark plug socket witch was more than deep enough.

Both housings are now cracked, I know for a fact that the last one was not cracked before I put it in , because I looked it over really good before I put it in. The box it came in was marked Duralast and there was no evidance of it being a previously returned part.

I have already talked to the installer of the remote system ( compustar 900 r ) and he can not explain why the temp gage will work when I start the vehicle with the key but not when the remote is running the vehicle . He is putting the blame on a faulty dash cluster, I know he has 30 years experiance in installing remote starts but something is not adding up.

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[name]

How does these things work ? does that little probe sence the air temp in the brass housing ? are there any electronics in the plastic part ?

another thing I can not figure out is why the plastic piece has two male prongs in it but the female plug only has one wire ?

 

[arrg]

How much torque are you putting on it when you install it? They're NPT threads, they don't need to bottom out to seal.

 

[name]

does anybody know if these sending units from advance , auto-zone or O'Reilly are made in the same place, but just packaged in a different box ?

 

[east302]

How does these things work ? does that little probe sence the air temp in the brass housing ? are there any electronics in the plastic part ?

another thing I can not figure out is why the plastic piece has two male prongs in it but the female plug only has one wire ?

From alldata on a 98, probably the same setup if I had to guess:

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If you didn’t go animal on torquing it down, I’d lean toward yet another bad switch. Autozone likely accepts the lowest bidder on whoever wants to build a switch and ship it over here.

These days, I’m more surprised if a new part works right the first time.

I’d go with a new Delco or used (20+ year old) one from a junkyard.

 

[name]

How much torque are you putting on it when you install it? They're NPT threads, they don't need to bottom out to seal.

I am putting them in tight, trying to get the clip part to be in the upright position, but they are not bottoming out and there is about 3 threads left showing on the brass part.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

another thing I can not figure out is why the plastic piece has two male prongs in it but the female plug only has one wire ?

Sounds like you're getting the wrong sensor, the 2-wire sensor feeds the ECM and goes next to the T-Stat housing. The 1-wire sensor is for your gauge.

Edit: Plus it's called a sensor not a switch. The switch is for idiot lights used in the W/T models.

 

[Schurkey]

My suspicion is that you're breaking them as you tighten them into position.

Side-force on the socket will crack the plastic. Even more likely with a spark-plug socket having a foam or rubber insert inside.

 

[name]

I checked the torque with a wrench. the one that only lasted 15 min was at 18 ft lbs. I put another new one in from o'riley and torqued it to 10 ft lbs with no thread sealer. I have driven it 100 miles tonight without incident but I am afraid of using the remote.

Below are the pictures of the O'riley unit ( witch is also made in Mexico like the Auto-zone one but has the black plastic )

I will also try to post a video of the how the gage is acting .

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[name]

Sounds like you're getting the wrong sensor, the 2-wire sensor feeds the ECM and goes next to the T-Stat housing. The 1-wire sensor is for your gauge.

Edit: Plus it's called a sensor not a switch. The switch is for idiot lights used in the W/T models.

I was told at the part store that the switch is the same for the idiot light and gage, the sensor by the T-stat has two small prongs that are the same size. can somebody confirm by the pictures that I have the right switch / sensor in the correct location for a '94 ?