Electrical problem

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JustinJ94FSB

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skip to the last paragraph if all you want to do is know exactly whats happening right now. the top section i lay out the scenario if you need more details.

first off i have a 1994 full size blazer (2 door tahoe before it was called tahoe, yes people actually try to correct me thinking i meant s10 blazer) This is the model before the updated dash. it has the old 92-94 dash, not the 95-2000ish looking one.
... anyways....

My truck experienced the water leak that plagues these trucks. I dont want to go into a ton of detail on the water leak since there is already a thread about it and thats how i knew where to look and how to fix it. So im blessed this forum led me down the correct path. Now i have a whole new issue.

the water leak itself is the one where the water channel below the windshield that drains on each side of the engine compartment against the firewall was leaking into my HVAC air inlet. I fought with this for a week or 2 and finally took it to my dads body shop where he had professional tools and experience. We took the metal cover off of the cowl area, put self leveling seam sealer along the HVAC air inlet box and let it dry, then added even more. That thing will never leak again. Then we installed the cover back on with the same seam-sealer, and repainted it. we just had a big rain storm and there is no trace of moisture on my inside firewall anymore. No more fogged up windows, my dessicant bags have indicators on them and they are not showing signs of moisture either... so water leak is solved, moving on. sorry for the preface.

I have not been driving this truck. It is more of a garage queen, unfortunately i dont have any room in my current garage so it has been parked outside, but i check on it often to make sure the battery is charged and i run the engine etc.

the truck has a brand new battery, which has been on a battery tender and is fully charged.

*Heres the story of the problem.

On my way to my dads shop to fix the water leak for good, my stereo kept having glitches where the sound would cut out for a second and come back. it would do this maybe 1 or 2 times per minute. Then my stereo would reset the colors of the buttons to the default and it would keep changing modes and stuff. I thought this was possibly just the stereo being stupid and maybe need to be replaced. After sealing up the leak problem at my dads shop, i headed home. While driving home everything seemed ok, the stereo was still doing its weird thing, maybe not as much though. I turned on my headlights and out of the corner of my eye i thought i noticed my speedometer fluctuate significantly, maybe as much as 10mph and then back to normal. So i watched it and i turned my lights back off, and nothing happened. I turned the lights back on and nothing weird happened. So i thought my brain was playing tricks on me. I got home and parked the truck. Today i had to go to the store to get some stuff. I start the engine and it runs for 1 second and then just shuts off. So i start it again and it runs fine. im thinking "thats weird", and i take off to go to the store. While im driving the stereo is fine, no problems. I get to home depot, get my stuff, and head back to my truck. I start the engine and my speedometer is glitching out, its bouncing around all over the place, 35mph 15mph 20, 30 etc. bouncing all around. I back out of the parking spot, and start driving through the parking lot toward the exit. I turn my headlights on and my engine cuts out, parking brake light on the cluster illuminates, and then the engine turns itself back on (probably because my ignition was on and i was moving) but why did the engine just shut off when i turned the headlights on. Anyways, the headlights were now on, and my cluster bulbs were flickering, but not all of them just some of them. I get to a red light and i notice my speedometer is flickering and so are the lights. After that im able to drive home without anymore issues.

All of these issues have never existed before. The only thing that has happened between not having these electrical abnormalities was having my truck parked next to my house, and discovering water leaking down my firewall on the passenger side of the truck, (not enough to soak my carpet or anything, the carpet barely even got damp). And the problems were mostly discovered the day i took it to fix the leak, and after the leak was fixed. There are no signs of moisture on my firewall anywhere i can see, and i removed the glove box insert so i could shine a light in there and i dont see any indication there was ever moisture anywhere in there. The bottom of my blower motor assembly has a light dusting of mold which makes sense because thats where the water was getting into the cab from mostly. I used to touch the rubber surround on my blower motor and water would squeeze out of the foam. After doing the repairs, this foam is completely dry as is everywhere else i look.

So far since i just barely got home, i looked at the ground connection from my battery which has 2 leads, 1 goes to my intake manifold and that looks completely fine, the bolt is not rusted or oxidized or anything. The connection from my negative terminal that goes right to the inner passenger fender is also perfect condition. The ground wire that goes from my block to my frame has some dirt and grime on it and there is some surface rust on the frame, but that ground, along with all of the others, have not been touched in years. they are not exposed to moisture while the vehicle is parked, and i strongly doubt they are the problem. There is a ground connection attatched to my thermostat housing on the top of the intake manifold and i notice a small coolant seep up there, but the connection looks fine, no corrosion. I am completely clueless at this point what could be causing all of these things to go haywire. The battery is also brand new Deka AGM. Was on a battery tender, so it was fully charged.

upon visual inspection my computer just has dust on it, no moisture signs anywhere. I plan to take it out and open it up and look for consensation drips or something. I also noticed the led lighting of my HVAC mode indicator flickering as well. Anyone have any suggestions on what to check? While i am waiting for a reply on here i am going to look into getting my computer out and checking for moisture.

Any help is much appreciated, and im sorry for the super long post but i needed to be a detailed as possible. This truck is well cared for, hardly driven, its a prized possession of mine, not a daily driver that i dont care about. it is fully restored inside and out, minus the engine bay. thats next.
 

JustinJ94FSB

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just want to add a quick update.

i just removed the negative battery terminal, and removed the computer from behind the glovebox. i opened it up, took the circuit board out which comes out very easily. I thoroughly inspected the entire thing. the circuit board, the connections, i took out the memory chip thing, etc. There is not a single trace of moisture having ever been in there, it was completely dry. and the circuit board has a silicone film covering it and that was not damaged or discolored. my visual inspection did not uncover any problems with the computer. obviously its still a possibility a resister or capacitor is fried or something. But no burnt smells, and no visual indications of problems were present.
 

RawbDidIt

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I'm guessing it's a loose connection. It appears to be affecting multiple circuits, so I'd look at major power and ground connections. I've had similar issues before, and it's almost always been at the battery terminals. Sounds like you're running into low voltage cutoffs, the stereo usually cuts itself off first, then the ECM, as loads drop, voltage increases. With a loose connection finding that equilibrium is difficult, as it fluctuates, causing issues that you've described, especially if you add a new load (turning on the lights). I'd start with checking the 2 terminals, not just visually, pull on the wires and make sure there's no movement. If you have replacement terminals with the bar that pinches the wires, pull the bolts, apply lock tite, and reinstall. Not sure how yours is different from my 97 k1500, but there should also be a main power wire that goes to the fuse box, check that connection as well.

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JustinJ94FSB

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I'm guessing it's a loose connection. It appears to be affecting multiple circuits, so I'd look at major power and ground connections. I've had similar issues before, and it's almost always been at the battery terminals. Sounds like you're running into low voltage cutoffs, the stereo usually cuts itself off first, then the ECM, as loads drop, voltage increases. With a loose connection finding that equilibrium is difficult, as it fluctuates, causing issues that you've described, especially if you add a new load (turning on the lights). I'd start with checking the 2 terminals, not just visually, pull on the wires and make sure there's no movement. If you have replacement terminals with the bar that pinches the wires, pull the bolts, apply lock tite, and reinstall. Not sure how yours is different from my 97 k1500, but there should also be a main power wire that goes to the fuse box, check that connection as well.

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Thank you! I guess because when i removed my negative cable prior to removing the computer and stuff i didnt notice any abnormalities. The screw backed out normal and the cable came off. It didnt feel like it was super loose or anything. So i guess i just ruled it out without thought. I took my computer apart to look for moisture, didnt find any, so i cleaned my engine/body to chassis ground connection, and cleaned the ground connection on top of my intake manifold. That was the extent of my first attempt to correct the problem. So when i put it all back together the negative terminal wont even get snug at all, it gets slightly more than finger tight and then it loosens back up again. I looked at the threads on the screw and they are rounded off. I know my battery is not stripped since its brand new and i am careful not to over tighten these connections. (these are not crimped on the top terminals, i am using the factory side terminals currently.)

Anyways, long story short, Thanks alot for the help with this. If i didnt already go on a mission fixing things i would have read your reply and gone out and checked the terminal and saved a bunch of time. I am like 100% certain replacing my negative terminal will solve all the weird issues im having. I think i also didnt consider the negative terminal because the water leak i dealt with had me on a mission to find moisture in some sort of electronics.

You seem to know your stuff with electronics which i wish i knew more. That is my biggest knowledge gap when it comes to working on things, cars/house/whatever. The fact that the stereo cuts off before the ecm and the loads dropping etc. All of that is stuff i wish i understood more. Its like i understand when i read it, and i can visualize those things and it makes sense. but i wouldnt have thought of that on my own. You nailed it without seeing my vehicle or what its doing. Thank you very much, now i can finally stop stressing about this truck for a little while. with the water leak issue and weeks of rain in the forecast and nowhere dry to put my truck, and moving halfway across the country in a couple months, ive been so stressed. lol
 

RawbDidIt

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Thank you! I guess because when i removed my negative cable prior to removing the computer and stuff i didnt notice any abnormalities. The screw backed out normal and the cable came off. It didnt feel like it was super loose or anything. So i guess i just ruled it out without thought. I took my computer apart to look for moisture, didnt find any, so i cleaned my engine/body to chassis ground connection, and cleaned the ground connection on top of my intake manifold. That was the extent of my first attempt to correct the problem. So when i put it all back together the negative terminal wont even get snug at all, it gets slightly more than finger tight and then it loosens back up again. I looked at the threads on the screw and they are rounded off. I know my battery is not stripped since its brand new and i am careful not to over tighten these connections. (these are not crimped on the top terminals, i am using the factory side terminals currently.)

Anyways, long story short, Thanks alot for the help with this. If i didnt already go on a mission fixing things i would have read your reply and gone out and checked the terminal and saved a bunch of time. I am like 100% certain replacing my negative terminal will solve all the weird issues im having. I think i also didnt consider the negative terminal because the water leak i dealt with had me on a mission to find moisture in some sort of electronics.

You seem to know your stuff with electronics which i wish i knew more. That is my biggest knowledge gap when it comes to working on things, cars/house/whatever. The fact that the stereo cuts off before the ecm and the loads dropping etc. All of that is stuff i wish i understood more. Its like i understand when i read it, and i can visualize those things and it makes sense. but i wouldnt have thought of that on my own. You nailed it without seeing my vehicle or what its doing. Thank you very much, now i can finally stop stressing about this truck for a little while. with the water leak issue and weeks of rain in the forecast and nowhere dry to put my truck, and moving halfway across the country in a couple months, ive been so stressed. lol
You live and you learn. I learn best from my own mistakes, and I've made a few of them. Keep on trucking, glad to help.

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thinger2

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Had the same problems and it turned out the positive cable was corroded for quite a ways inside the insulation.
Looked great from the outside but was crusty green inside.
I also moved the negative from the intake to the block which makes for a much better ground.
I didn't want to risk breaking the bolt so I just cut it of and put a new crimp on the cut end
 
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