Coolant going somewhere

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Schurkey

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On the vortec water pump, I used Permatex Aviation, on the advice of my mechanic cousins. Been on there since February 2019 and no leaks. Could this be used on the head or intake manifold bolts?
Yes. Not my first choice, but yes.

I use this stuff, PTFE, high temp, a lot cheaper, no issues.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Great-White-Sealant/4750813
ABSOLUTELY better than nothing. Again, not my first choice.

The stuff I suggested--PST from Loctite/Permatex has a HARDENING chemical in it--related to threadlocking compound. It doesn't just thicken when the solvent evaporates, it actually hardens/cures in the absence of air.

There's other thread sealers that use Teflon/PTFE, but they don't have the anaerobic hardening chemical. And they are NOT as good as PST.

On a GM LS engine, the cylinder head bolts are TTY (torque-to-yield) and cannot be re-used. You might be better off getting a new set of bolts and head gaskets.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/03/17/quick-tech-tty-fasteners-ls-engines-need-know/
But this isn't an LS engine. As long as his bolts weren't corroded or otherwise damaged, they'll be fine.

The '88 service manual does not say that the bolts need to be replaced. The manual does say to use GM #1052080 sealer, or equivalent. The recommended sealer is Loctite 592 custom-packaged for GM, with a GM part number on the squeeze-tube.

http://www.motofab.com/data/pdf/loctite_oem_product_guide.pdf

Torque is 65 ft/lbs.
 

travisc406

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Schurkey

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I think you're wasting a pair of head gaskets and intake gaskets, and a whole lot of time.

I'd pull one head bolt at a time, apply the recommended sealer, and torque 'em right back to spec. Don't dick with the intake manifold, don't screw with lifter preload/rocker adjustment.

If that doesn't work, you can always pop the cylinder heads off later.
 

travisc406

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So because I just don’t wanna start throwing parts at it and now foggy whether I used sealant on the head bolts or not...... I began trying to verify where the antifreeze is coming from this is the passenger valve cover. Drivers side was dry nothing in it. I pulled both valve covers off and pressured up system. Let sit for almost two hours and no sign of leakage inside the heads the valve cover area. All bots stayed dry. I did find my brand new water pump was leaking out weep hole. So pressure would drop. I looked into valley through the holes in heads and really couldn’t see any leak. I cleaned all bolts and dried completely. I dropped
The oil and put plug back in and left it pressured up and then pulled plug and drained into a clear glass and nothing.
So here is my question to you all. If it isn’t leaking from a bolt, or intake seal where else could it be coming from? I know head gasket is an option but I would think the oil would be showing a mix of climbing the dipstick and it isn’t it’s only steam under valve cover as shown.a Lil stumped I guess on where to go next.

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1. Are you SURE you have a coolant leak? A restricted PCV system will produce the same slime in the valve covers. Verify your PCV system, and assure that the engine doesn't have excessive blow-by.

2. Pressure testing the cooling system is a good idea...but it's not a perfect test. The engine won't be fully-warm, and it won't be stressed by actual operation. I've seen casting cracks that didn't leak until they were completely hot. Your "leak" doesn't have to be a gasket or seal--it could be a crack or porosity in the head or block, or some other metal part. MAYBE the appropriate "fix" is to drop in a cooling system sealing tablet, of the sort that GM itself uses. (But not until you're sure the PCV system is FULLY functional.)
 

eran tomer

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