Cam Swap Help

[Awest623]

Also without EGR here. Might as well be catless too with the thunderbolt spun race cats I run.

The F-car LT1 cam and 1.6 rocker setup I put in my brothers 1999 Suburban also set P0300 codes at idle.

I also always set my valves with the engine running and give them 1/2 turn lash. I have played with the lash anywhere between 1/4 and 1 full turn. 1/2 just seems to run the best. The OEM specified 1 turn seems to limit rpm potential and also seems to make less torque.

You said you set your lash while the engine is running? How does that work. I've only seen it done while cranking the engine by hard or bumping the starter.

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[L31MaxExpress]

You said you set your lash while the engine is running? How does that work. I've only seen it done while cranking the engine by hard or bumping the starter.

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I first set the rockers the best I can using companion cylinder method and crank them down 1/2 turn from what I feel zero is. Once the engine is up and running, I pull the valve cover off one bank at a time. Start the engine. Start at the first rocker arm and loosen it until it starts to tick, then tighten it up until it just stops ticking. Repeat for all 8 valves on that bank. Then shut the engine off and crank down the rockers 1/2 turn each. Assemble that side of the engine and move to the other side. On the Vortec engines I adjust the driverside first since you have to remove the belt and loosen the compressor bracket to gain access. It only takes me a couple of minutes to adjust all 8. As long as the cooling system is full you can run the engine for a short period of time without water circulation without hurting anything. If necessary have a helper in the truck to monitor the temperature gauge.

 

[Awest623]

I first set the rockers the best I can using companion cylinder method and crank them down 1/2 turn from what I feel zero is. Once the engine is up and running, I pull the valve cover off one bank at a time. Start the engine. Start at the first rocker arm and loosen it until it starts to tick, then tighten it up until it just stops ticking. Repeat for all 8 valves on that bank. Then shut the engine off and crank down the rockers 1/2 turn each. Assemble that side of the engine and move to the other side. On the Vortec engines I adjust the driverside first since you have to remove the belt and loosen the compressor bracket to gain access. It only takes me a couple of minutes to adjust all 8. As long as the cooling system is full you can run the engine for a short period of time without water circulation without hurting anything. If necessary have a helper in the truck to monitor the temperature gauge.

So I'm guessing the point of that process is to get the rockers adjusted just a little more even? Sounds good to me.

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[L31MaxExpress]

So I'm guessing the point of that process is to get the rockers adjusted just a little more even? Sounds good to me.

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That is the point. For the vast majority of people it is much easier to find zero lash with the engine running. You can easily hear/feel the difference as soon as the valve train gets slack in it. It starts to tick loudly.

 

[slowburb]

I do not adjust lifter preload with the engine running. EO/IC through the firing order, find zero lash (absence of vertical slack between parts) and give a hair more than 1/2 turn for rollers. Flat tappet lifter engines get 3/4 turn. Done.

 

[Awest623]

I do not adjust lifter preload with the engine running. EO/IC through the firing order, find zero lash (absence of vertical slack between parts) and give a hair more than 1/2 turn for rollers. Flat tappet lifter engines get 3/4 turn. Done.

The exhaust lift with the ht383 cam and 1.6 rockers would be .481". Intake would be .460". Is that gonna be too much? I don't wanna break anything

 

[Awest623]

The truck has a DCH4 crate engine in it

 

[Awest623]

Welp, cam, stamped 1.6 rockers, gaskets, and assembly lube ordered. Plan on swapping it this next weekend. After that it's time for a black bear tune

 

[89GMCJOHN]

Since its kinda your first just make sure you set #1 to tdc and mark your dist position and plug wires for reference before disassembly, take some pics of the timing dots / marks etc before / while pulling things apart .... it makes things a little easier when putting things back together.... I have run the marine cam twice ..its a decent cam but not a track cam as some seem to be only concerned with 6k blasts lol...but for a cheap ,torquey ,smaller cam compatible with AC and a stock converter its fine. Im running 1.6 stamped and stock springs on TBI heads with no issues ....with 1.6's your looking at around .459 .481 I,E lift..... I am right at 10:1 , carbed and run a 160 degree stat and have no pinging but do not pull a trailer , no hills etc here in Fla. FWIW.

 

[Awest623]

Since its kinda your first just make sure you set #1 to tdc and mark your dist position and plug wires for reference before disassembly, take some pics of the timing dots / marks etc before / while pulling things apart .... it makes things a little easier when putting things back together.... I have run the marine cam twice ..its a decent cam but not a track cam as some seem to be only concerned with 6k blasts lol...but for a cheap ,torquey ,smaller cam compatible with AC and a stock converter its fine. Im running 1.6 stamped and stock springs on TBI heads with no issues ....with 1.6's your looking at around .459 .481 I,E lift..... I am right at 10:1 , carbed and run a 160 degree stat and have no pinging but do not pull a trailer , hills etc here in Fla. FWIW.

Thanks. Already been through the dist mess before. Have a cap with part of the side knocked out so I can get it lined up perfect without a fancy scanner. And I've been learning as much as I can about the install. I THINK I got it under control. But you know how that goes... As for race car stuff, I got a 4x4 truck and I treat it as such. Lol. Lotsa hills here, but I barely ever pull trailers. Putting everything in this Saturday (I hope). And gonna do a bit of a redneck valve clearance check since I ain't taking the heads off.

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